I've seen how some of you have secured your sub to the car. I have this corrugated plastic thing under the carpet in the trunk. Not sure if it was stock or aftermarket, but in either case it looks stock. Anyway, I have one 10" sub in a box and have no idea how to secure it to the car so it doesn't slide around. Ideas would be helpful!
velcro should work on the carpet.
I am going to use thick Metal "L" brackets and bolt it right to the trunk bottom. But Im only doing this because My sub is positioned such that i have the least phase possible.
Originally posted by pimp86LX
My sub is positioned such that i have the least phase possible.
Care to elaborate? That doesn't make any sense to me...
There are many ways to secure your sub down. Realize that velcro will keep it from sliding, most likely, but in the even of an accident, it will do nothing. In a head-on accident at 55 mph, a tissue box has enough energy to take your head off... now imagine a 30-100lb sub box... yeah, not good.
You just have to be inventive. My sub box is going to house a pretty expensive sub, so what I'm thinking of doing is this: drill holes through the rear wheel wells into the trunk, and secure the box with huge bolts from there. That way, the only way to get the box out is to remove the rear wheels and undo the bolts.
But you could also use L-brackets, or bolts, and secure it to the trunk bottom, just be careful, because the gas-tank is right there under the front half of the trunk.
Another idea is to make a piece of MDF in the shape of that cardboard thing in the trunk, and secure the sub to that, and then secure that to the trunk.
with the sub facing the back of the car closest to the seat gives a greater chance to lose SPL because the sine wave bounces off the trunk and can cause partial phase-out. I have mine positioned center , right against the back of the trunk. I read a tutorial somewere (cant remember were) and a guy found this to be the beast position for avoiding loss of SPL due to phase-out. I decided to try it and it made an audible (although slight)difference. In the future when i have dual 12" subs im going sped as much time as it takes to position my subs correctly.
Well I have my rear strut bar to prevent it from flying through the seatBut I plan to use some steel L brackets to hold it in place. I will use at least 4 of them. My box is made out of 1" MDF wood so what size screws should I use?
Mine's so heavy with all the hard cornering I've been doing it hasn't moved once. and it's not like it's going to come through the seats at me of I'm in an accident(is it?)
I cut out a piece of plywood to replace the stock trunk board. Then i took some small L brackets and screwed them into the floor and the box. I didnt use big enough screws or brackets and they ripped out. The brackets should be about 1" each side and use at least a 1/2" wood screw, maybe 3/4". that should do it. Screwing it to the stock trunk board wont hold it though because that crap is flimsy and the screws will rip right out.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
Oh I forgot to mention I will replace that stock plastic stuff with wood.
Well I understand what you mean, but your original statement was worded incorrectly. What you're trying to accomplish is to keep cancellation at a minimum, keeping the primary and secondary waves as much in phase as possible... haha, I probably was the one who showed you the tutorial, although perhaps not directly (me and catalin or somebody else had a bit of a bout over it a while back).Originally posted by pimp86LX
with the sub facing the back of the car closest to the seat gives a greater chance to lose SPL because the sine wave bounces off the trunk and can cause partial phase-out. I have mine positioned center , right against the back of the trunk. I read a tutorial somewere (cant remember were) and a guy found this to be the beast position for avoiding loss of SPL due to phase-out. I decided to try it and it made an audible (although slight)difference. In the future when i have dual 12" subs im going sped as much time as it takes to position my subs correctly.
And as a general rule, you should have them facing back as close to the back of your car as you can go. But it's not the same for every car... you might find it louder in a corner, or facing up, you never know until you try.
Mike, use whatever screws you'd like, really. You've got an inch of MDF to go through, so might as well use all of it and use 1" screws to secure the L-brackets.
i found in my trunk if you just use a staple gun and staple about 6-8 staples through the carpet into the thin wood shit it wont slide around but it all depends on the weight of your speaker. my problem was the carpet sliding around.
Heh heh yah i worded that kind odd. I've been experimenting with a good spot (short of getting a silly scope) and i find with the box i just built. It sounds best as far back as possible.Originally posted by 87DXHatch
Well I understand what you mean, but your original statement was worded incorrectly. What you're trying to accomplish is to keep cancellation at a minimum, keeping the primary and secondary waves as much in phase as possible... haha, I probably was the one who showed you the tutorial, although perhaps not directly (me and catalin or somebody else had a bit of a bout over it a while back).
And as a general rule, you should have them facing back as close to the back of your car as you can go. But it's not the same for every car... you might find it louder in a corner, or facing up, you never know until you try.
Mike, use whatever screws you'd like, really. You've got an inch of MDF to go through, so might as well use all of it and use 1" screws to secure the L-brackets.
A silly scope? Are you talking about an oscilliscope? (spelled incorrectly)
That wouldn't do a single thing for how loud your system is, or how in phase it is... you use "silly scopes" for setting your gains, that's it.
Unless, of course, your "silly scope" isn't what I'm thinking
Last edited by 87DXHatch; 07-17-2003 at 10:22 AM.
Well, I don't have wood back there, and that would add extra weight that I don't want. I don't think velcro would work too great since the carpet would slide around. I guess I'll try and figure something else out.
glue the carpet down with some liquid nails or something and that should help keep the box from sliding around.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
that piece of wood that goes back there in my car broke into peices so now theres just the carpet there.
i got the L brackets, screwed into the floor and then screwed into the box, no problems with that works good, and for my amp i screwed it to the seat, no one stealin mah shit!!
1987 Accord hatchie
Mods- NONE! :alc:
my friends got an 98 4 door escort, he built a custom box for his 2 12's, it was so huge its built in 2 pieces and both haveto be assembeled in the trunk iteslf, there is absolutly no way to get his subs out unless you take his huge box apart. In the hatch of my car i had this outdoor carpet stuff from home depot, it was pretty cheap, and had kinda ridges on it, and nothing moved in my hatch, (sub and amp, books ect.)
Ben, have you looked into to a standard L shape bracket? Screw it down to the metal frame and to the back of the box. There are L brackets that will slide over a screw/bolt so you can remove it by sliding it back or forward.
~Nathan~
"There's always something waiting at the end of the road. If you are not willing to see what it is, you probably shouldn't be out there in the first place."
~StOcK PiCs~
yea i had one 12,(key word there had) and i used three brackets, one in the front middle, and two on the sides twards the back. heres a pic:
I also have that corrigated board and i just screwd right into that and that thing never moved. After that speaker blew, i got myself 2 12" inifinitys and i used those same l brackets to hold it down, and trust me, they dont stop people from stealing anything. They ripped it all out, box and all, with the 2 amps i had attached on the back. Now i am more cautious, i have 2 12" infinitys again, but the box has 2 locks. it would be very diffucult to steal now. Put lock on your shit or else itll get jacked.
Kevin
Everyone, take a look at the dateThis was a year ago. Thanks for the advice though... even though I don't have my 3g anymore
I'd wrap it with some sharp pointy neeedles and barbed wire just for insuranceOriginally Posted by 88accordalltheway
yea i had one 12,(key word there had) and i used three brackets, one in the front middle, and two on the sides twards the back. heres a pic:
I also have that corrigated board and i just screwd right into that and that thing never moved. After that speaker blew, i got myself 2 12" inifinitys and i used those same l brackets to hold it down, and trust me, they dont stop people from stealing anything. They ripped it all out, box and all, with the 2 amps i had attached on the back. Now i am more cautious, i have 2 12" infinitys again, but the box has 2 locks. it would be very diffucult to steal now. Put lock on your shit or else itll get jacked.
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