Dang... she just emailed me like 2 minutes ago so it's all good.
Dang... she just emailed me like 2 minutes ago so it's all good.
Sweet deal I got my amp kit in the mail a minute ago. I got a 2 gauge Power Acoustik Amp Kit.
2 guage! nice!!! I have a 4 guage going to a 4x10g distribution block
Cool. I just thought of something I need help figuring out. I have 33ft of nice speaker wire. But I honestly don't think it will be enough. (after you hide the wires and wire fronts and rears, it might not be enough) Can I use different kind of speaker wire with the stuff I have? Or should I take the wire I have to a store and tell them I want speaker wire as close as I can get to this? Let me know what you guys think about this.
Speaker wire essentially means nothing. As long as it's the same guage, low-grade will perform almost identically compared to expensive stuff... it's just one more "security blanket" thing that some people have gotten drilled into their heads by manufacturers like Monster.
Just make sure when you connect it that you solder it together and don't just wrap and tape, less resistance means more power.
Holy giant capacitor Batman!!! :lol Looks pretty nice though, man! Personally, I think it'd look good in the armrest, but it'd serve more of a purpose if it was as close as possible to you amps...less resistance from the wires...though probably negligable. Take pics when you're done man!!!
PS...I want my strut bar
I agree with 87dxhatch about alot of this stuff. As long as you have a heavy enough gauge and a good connection, chances are you wont hear the difference between cheap speaker wire and expensive stuff, especially in car audio with 2000W amplifiers. The length and the quality and or method of connection for the speaker wires matters more. There is some good to capacitors, they are supposed to stiffen up the power supply so the amp will hit harder and play cleaner, but most people use them to cure bad dimming, which they are just a bandaid for. If you run into serious dimming, the cap wont prevent you from burning up an alternator or draining a battery.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
I just got my 4 channel amp today and will get my cap on the 28th. It's taken a long ass time for that cap and she is getting negative feedback for sure.
Dude if you would have an imagination for a second here. Doing that idea of putting the cap where the arm rest is is still a good spot. To help get the power to the amp quickly, port some holes on the back and feed it through there and brace the amp on the back of the seat. I did the same idea too, but my system got jacked. wonder how they knew how to get it out so fast without anyone knowin lol. If u need any help with instructions on doing this, hit me up. I'll guide you step by step. Can't show pics of it cause damn digi cam still not found in the storage lol.
Jesus, yet another thread back from the dead. Hows this project going by the way?
I know this won't work for our cars unless you cut the plastic console surrounding the shift selector or stick... but my friend in his taurus wagon(shitty car, he hates it too) has his amp placed up against the front wall, mounted so the wires from his HU hit it right away and then he put a cap right underneath the dash between the driver and passenger seats so he could look down and see the digital display, plus right next to the amp.
I'll see if I can get a pic off of him.
I installed everything on my back seat. Amp, Alarm brain unit, Capacitor, and a black light ( I know I know thats rice, but it looks cool when you open the trunk at night and see a purplish glow and the white RF on the subs lighting up
If i was you i would install it in the armrest like you want then run the wires throught the armrrest to the amp which is mounted on your back seat. no loss of power and it will look cool
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