EGR....Maybe?

**Dibbs** · 07-28-2003, 08:48 AM

I posted a while back saying that my engine had a problem with missing. The PGM-FI light would flash on for a few seconds then when it went away the engine would miss. The car usually stalls at idle too. I think it was POS Carb who said to clean out the EGR tube and valve. Although I have not gotten to that yet, I plan to do that tonight. Is there anything else you guys think I might should check since I'm under the hood?

BTW...What's the best way to remove the EGR tube and valve? I see a lot of hoses and wires above the tube and it looks like a bitch to take out. I thought about disconnecting it from the EGR and using this long ass brush on a wire that I have, then spraying it w/carb cleaner to loosen the rest up and let it push on throught the exhaust (I have no Cat). Any other ideas would be helpfull. Thanks.

**Dibbs** · 07-31-2003, 04:15 AM

Update:

This morning, the car stalled while pulling out from the gas station. When I tried to start it it would turn over but not crank, resembling an ECT sensor problem. Any ideas?

**87accordlxph** · 07-31-2003, 01:36 PM

So your saying that the PGM-FI light came on/off?
Check the ecu under the driver's seat and see how many blinks the led gives ya and the time these flashes occur; then when you make out the number of flashes at a particular pattern for example 2 quick flashes and one 2 sec flash.
Write down the sequience of flashes that the ecu gives ya and then check out the thread that has ecu codes.

I hope I made this clear to ya.

I don't think this problem is egr valve related.
I think this is fuel related and it could be a bad fuel pump.
Do you have a vaccume gauge to test fuel pressure?

-Mike from Sarnia!

**Dibbs** · 08-01-2003, 05:15 AM

There are no flashes under the ECU. It's the first thing I checked. I guess since whatever sensor is ailing has not completly went out, it's not showing a code.

**Dibbs** · 08-01-2003, 05:23 AM

BTW....my car died yesterday due to yet another problem with the ECT Sensor. I had a spare at the house so I had to wait for my wife to come get me (1 hour each way) pick up the proper tools and install the new sensor. The spare sensor worked and I was able to get home but I still have the missing problem like in my first post on this thread.

'87...I don't have a guage but I could probably get one. Tell me why you think it might be the fuel pump.

**87accordlxph** · 08-02-2003, 04:58 AM

Hi,

Sorry I have been busy with work lately and I haven't had the chance to do some car stuff.

Anyway, I'm not saying that the fuel pump is the culprit, but as you described how you car is acting up it could be fuel related since the car is hard to start after is stalls.
Did you check the fuel system on your car?
(Fuel pump (check the pressure), fuel cut off relay (could be this, very common), fuel filter (changed this lately), fuel pressure regulator (check pressure), fuel lines and fuel injectors and resistor.))

If POS Carb suspects that it's the egr valve then you can test it to see if the diaphram can move up and down slightly with your finger. If you have the vacuum gauge, you can connect the egr valve to it apply a vacuum and the engine should die (not literally, but will stall)
I have a carbed motor and my EGR valve seized up but I was still able to start the car and it would not stall. I guess on a FI model it might be different.

Well, Dibbie that's pretty much all that I can tell you as of now. Sorry for such a long post.

Good luck to you.

-Mike from Sarnia!

**Dibbs** · 08-05-2003, 04:27 AM

I've checked and cleaned the EGR valve and tube. No change. I replaced the fuel filter when I first noticed this problem. I don't have a vacuum gauge to check pressures (need one though). Do you have any PSI specs for the fuel pump and regulator?

Also, the car starts fine now that I replaced the ECT sensor for the second time! Still tries to stall though.

Thanks for the info Mike!

**cruznz** · 08-05-2003, 04:35 AM

might want to check the PCV valve, it seems to be a problem with some members lately who've had problems with engine stalling at idle,...(just a thought)

**Dibbs** · 08-05-2003, 07:01 AM

I checked the pcv and it SEEMED ok. I pinched the hose w/ a pair of vise grips to see if it was doing its job and I heard that clicking sound, so I think it's ok. The damn thing's so cheap I outta replace it anyway.

**87accordlxph** · 08-05-2003, 02:19 PM

Originally posted by Dibbie
I checked the pcv and it SEEMED ok. I pinched the hose w/ a pair of vise grips to see if it was doing its job and I heard that clicking sound, so I think it's ok. The damn thing's so cheap I outta replace it anyway.

If the pcv valve clicks then it works, no need to replace it.
Check all your vaccume hoses for leaks or improper connections.
Did you check the idle speed/mixture, is it idling too low?
is the rpm low when idiling?
Is this a 5 speed or auto?
Let me know I'll check back w/ later.

-Mike from Sarnia!

**Dibbs** · 08-06-2003, 07:39 AM

It's an Auto. I just paid $12 for a new idle adjustment screw w/ o-ring and I adjusted my idle to factory specs. The idle doesn't seem to be the problem because something is making the engine dramatically chug all of a sudden. WHen the PGM-FI light is on, the car rungs REALLY sluggish, like NO acceleration at all. When the light goes off (3-5 seconds later) that's when the engine chugs. This is a constantly repeating process. Doesn't matter what the temperature is, it is constant.

At higher RPMs (highway speed) it just chugs. At the lower RPM idle (stop light) it eventually stalls out. I think it just being at lower RPMs b/c the car is in gear and stopped is why it stalls when the engine chugs.

**87accordlxph** · 08-06-2003, 01:44 PM

Originally posted by Dibbie
It's an Auto. I just paid $12 for a new idle adjustment screw w/ o-ring and I adjusted my idle to factory specs. The idle doesn't seem to be the problem because something is making the engine dramatically chug all of a sudden. WHen the PGM-FI light is on, the car rungs REALLY sluggish, like NO acceleration at all. When the light goes off (3-5 seconds later) that's when the engine chugs. This is a constantly repeating process. Doesn't matter what the temperature is, it is constant.

At higher RPMs (highway speed) it just chugs. At the lower RPM idle (stop light) it eventually stalls out. I think it just being at lower RPMs b/c the car is in gear and stopped is why it stalls when the engine chugs.

As soon as the PGM-FI light comes on check the ecu... might be the o2 sensor or MAP sensor (are your plugs wet w/ fuel?)
Hard starting could be because your plugs are soaked with too much gas. I really hope there's nothing wrong with the engine man, this might be a bad sign.
Maybe your converter is clogged?
My only suggestion is to buy yourself a vaccume gauge to determine the condition of your motor maybe a compression tester as well?
I'm almost running out of ideas.
If only someone on this board who has experience with FI can help both of us.

Good luck Dibbie.

-Mike from Sarnia!

**cruznz** · 08-07-2003, 03:08 AM

hmmmm,...could be an ignition system fault

**Dibbs** · 08-07-2003, 03:47 AM

I don't have a Cat Converter (SHHHHHHHHH!)

I did find out that autozone has a vacuum gauge available from their free "loan-a-tool" program. I might do that and start hooking the gauge up to everything. I've got an electric vacuum pump. It's more for a/c evacuation and that kind of stuff. I've got a compression testor and my cylinders are fine. I've checked them regularly b/c I've had water in my tank recently. Anyway.....thanks for the help guys. I might just take the car the the Honda dealer and just pay them to diagnose it for me. Seems worth the money to me.

Thread: EGR....Maybe?

Thread Tools

EGR....Maybe?

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions