I wouldn't know, I still haven't been able to drive the car. My ecm hasn't arrived from Sean yet, and I paid him on May 3rd.
I wouldn't know, I still haven't been able to drive the car. My ecm hasn't arrived from Sean yet, and I paid him on May 3rd.
where did u get the turbo SETUP at? and how much. im interested in one.
what clutch are you running
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Yea I'm thinking about getting his ECU here soon, my stock stuff is just giving me too much crap lately.Originally Posted by Accordtheory
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Apparently you didn't read my little quote in my first pic..oh well. Yeah I built EVERYTHING you are looking at. I've also driven the car with it's previous fuel/spark setup for a while. You want me to sell you one? It won't be cheap...Yeah right, I won't build that shit for another 3g. No more fwd. Just to satisfy my curiosity, how much would you be willing to pay anyway? (not even knowing these specs)...
walbro forced induction pump for GSR
dsm 450cc injectors (for now)
modified to fit AEBS intake manifold
LS throttle body (also you have to use the LS rail, and a different throttle cable bracket, and modify the fuel line to fit the integra rail)
Ported cylinder head to match the larger ports of the AEBS manifold
Turbo header with 12" runners, ceramic coated
Mitsubishi big 16 turbo (minimal spoolage, more psi in the future)
3" downpipe and complete exhaust
Flowmaster 2 chamber delta flow
aftermarket Civic radiator with flex a lite fan
air filter in the fenderwell, with all custom air piping
Apex'i 2 chamber BOV, I like this one
no intercooler for now, I will be experimenting with a water/alcohol injection system that will be programmable like fuel injection
SEAN'S ECM, whenever that last piece of my puzzle will arrive
I also need to get a wideband 02 (I am liking the Zeitronix unit) and a tool to tune Sean's ecm with my laptop
230-240whp, stock internals? We shall see... More in the future, no doubt!
1) The runnners are all about 12/3/4" longwow nice setup. make me one. anyways, i have a few questions:
1) does that turbo manifold have equal-length runners? (hopefully).
2) looks like the front part of the hood can get hot pretty quick wouldn't it? you might need some heat shielding under the front of the hood or your paint with burn-fade in no time (or you or anyone touching the hood could burn themselves). you could also heat-wrap the manifold itself.
3) also, looks like changing the plugs would be a bitch to do. how are you gonna slide in a socket wrench in there to remove the plugs? and wouldn't the spark plug wires touch the hot manifold and melt?
4) what have you done for the engine? is it all internally stock?
anyways, if everything works well, big props to ya and hopefully you can give us the final numbers.
2)Yeah you tell me about it...Header wrap isn't a good idea though, it caused warpage, and my heatshield worked, but it is a better strategy to vent the heat rather than try to contain it
3) yeah right, like I would put that much effort into the manifold and somehow not consider plug access? It's just as easy as stock.
4) internally stock for now, I blew one before with bad tuning, hopefully I will be able to produce some decent power before I do it again
The factory centrifugal advance adds too much timing in my opinion at high rpm, and leaving the distributor retarded kills your mpg and throttle response out of boost, and I'm too cheap to buy a boost dependant retard, so here is how I modified my distributor to work with my current level of boost, 8psi. Actually this was a purely experimental thing, but it seems to have worked. I took the distributor apart, and then added some metal to restrict the motion in degrees of the centrifugal advance mechanism. This is the piece that fits over the shaft and has the springs connected to it. If you look at it, you can see how it moves with the weights pulling against the springs until it is physically stopped by hitting the piece below it. Well, what I did was weld on some metal to the moving piece, and then file it to the right shape, to the contact surface of the piece below it. I also changed the springs, and then when I reinstalled the distributor, I advanced the timing to almost 24deg. So now I have less centrifugal advance but more still enough timing out of boost. The result is that the car has a nice low egt and pulls hard at 6k without knocking, like it did before, which will destroy the engine in a matter of seconds... However, i don't really recommend doing this, it's just sort of food for thought. Probably better to just go with something like an msd BTM
that's a good, cheap mod if you're going for a budget turbo kit... good work, man
I have the msd btm.And I hate it.
of find something to put in the vacuum line to restrict it. slowing the speed that it advances.
Why do you hate the MSD BTM?
I've used vacuum line restrictors and all I get is less vacuum not slower vacuum response.
- llia
i havent setup the btm yet but for $100 why dont you just do that?
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Why? If you set it at about 1.2deg/psi retard, it works okay for most boosting, but doesn't pull enough timing at high rpm? That's what I was trying to solve.. I couldn't get my J&S safeguard to work properly either. What I really need is a completely new engine management system.
And by the way, vacuum restrictors/anything etc on that side won't do anything to the timing under boost, the diaphragm only advances timing under vacuum. The only advance under boost comes from the centrifugal advance, the way I understand it. I was hoping that the vacuum diaphragm would push the little rod the other way under boost, but no such chance, that would be way too cool.
hahah mang im still running stock factory ignition timing at 5lb boost on 93 octane intercooled... no knocking but i bet its on the ragged edge
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
what exactly is this "Knocking" sound your talking about? does it only refer to turbos? and you are all talking about knocking at 6000 rpms, i redline my car all the time and i dont think ive heard a "KNOCK" sound... ? what exactly are ya'll talkin about??????????
Performance Mods: 2.25" Cat Back Exhaust System, 3ARacing Muffler, Short Ram Intake, Accel Super Stock Coil, 9.3mm APC Spark Plug Wires, Autolite Double Platinum Spark Plugs
If its knocking its all ready over, I think what he's talking about is pre-detonation at higher rpms it makes a metallic pinging sound and will kill the engine if its not corrected
I want to use an ecu that is from a factory turbo car, so that my shit will have the same nice driveability as a factory setup. Specifically, I want to use a mass airflow setup. I know that there is a lot of bias against MAF setups in the aftermarket, but if it's an inferior setup, why do almost all factory turbo cars use it? Everything from the turbo dsm's, Z's, and Supras to the VW 1.8t's use this type of fuel metering. The mass airflow meters fuel properly under the varying volumetric efficiency conditions encountered while the turbo is spooling. The only way speed density could do this is if there was a MAP sensor in the turbo manifold too! So now, what system is the best one to adapt? I have no idea yet, but it has to have aftermarket support, like uberdata, etc for honda. Maybe the eclipse ecu..? Anyone have any ideas?
the dsm setup seems to be the most straight-forward and least troublesome. Nissan and VW anything is usally 4x more complex than need-be and is very flakey ( from personal experience)
no matter what, this is a huge job!..... hey, what about chevy's mass air?
I havent forgotten my roots
It would be cool if I could use a minimally restrictive mass airflow meter also, like an aftermarket one for a mustang..
MAF sensor does not meter fuel as you know, hence Mass AIRFLOW sensor. anyway, as u noticed it goes before the compressor itself to calculate how much air the turbo sucks in and the map senses how much pressure u build up when u use the sucked in air (read off the MAF) and thats why in the stock form, the DSM cannot be vented (the BOV). the car reves once u step on the gas, makes a nice whoooosh sound and dies.
Honda found a way to perfect their system just by using the MAP sensor while others sitll use MAF in conjunction with their MAP. its not a superior sytem, its just their way of using extra units to be fool proof, while honda concentrated on just perfecting their system via map.
I have heard and seen DSM guys run Corvette MAFs since its in bigger diameter and would improve performance (just like us na guys using 4g map sensor).
you can basically run a Mitsu ECU ior Ford Turbo Ecu, or a VW starion (aka Dodge Conquest) or any stock turbo car ecu. But do know these engines have EGR built into them.
But if i was you, i would start looking into adapting the OBD-1 ecu to your 3g and run a piggy back. Unless u wanna run a standalone. I know you and Elijah run AFCs and he swears by it, but its not the way im doing. I am gonna tap into the stock wiring, make a custom clip for my tec3 wire it all up and the only extra wires will be the for the wideband wire sensor. Also, using all GM sensors, proves to be a cheaper solution as for money vise and also to adapt to most Standalone.
So the cheapest and more reliable and flexible way for you from this current situation would be to get urself the OBD-1 conversion to rum a teg or civic or whatever ECU u want and get the corresponding piggyback.
I don't have the AFC unit. I have supplemental injection, and a voltage limiter connected to my map sensor. The reason why I want mass air is that I can watch my wideband output, and watch the air/fuel ratio change as the turbo is spooling. A MAP system would be suitable for a supercharger, because there is no lagging variance of exhaust backpressure vs boost/throttle position, but I strongly believe the reason why honda doesn't use mass air is that they don't build turbo engines.
Why would you want to run a piggyback with the obd1? Why wouldn't you just do the hondata thing?
Honda has turbo engines made as you know. We just dont have it here in the US. but watch out in a couple of years or even 2005, Honda Accord would come in a turbo Diesel making 130 bph and 200+ Ft-lbs of torque. I doubt they will use the MAF sensors. I have seen pics of engine bays with the Stock Honda turbo motors, but none of them had MAF.
I dont wanna run piggy back with OBD-1. I not a fan of piggybacks anyway. My way, is the Standalone. Thats why im saving up shitload for it. by the time i am done with the car. I think i would have invested about 10K in it and u know what, it will be perfect, atleast to me.
to run hondata you have to converto to OBD1 because there is no way to reliably control ignition timing because our distributors are vacuum advance, not electrical.
hondata also allows you to use wideband O2 sensors.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
oh i forgot to add, Hondata is a piggy back. Its usually misunderstood as a standalone due to their popularity. but seems like a lot of guys wanna run Uberdata or something like that.
uberdata is just the free version of hondata. With uberdata, you can burn CPU chips to plug into the stock ECU so its not really a piggyback system.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks