Main Relay question...

[accord250]

I checked out my main relay because my 89 LXi is hard starting. Strange thing is, it seems to be intermitent. Sometimes it will start right up, and other times I have to crank it several seconds several times before it starts. Per THIS article, I applied power to pins 4 & 8 and checked for continuity between 5 & 7, but since the relay was dead there was of course no continuity. The second part of the test where you apply power to 5 & 2 tested ok.

My question is, if half of the relay is totally bad, why is it I can get the car to start at all?

Part 2 of my question: Is this a dealer-only item? I checked 2 parts places that told me it was.

FYI: right now the car has just been sitting in my garage, as I'm not driving it until I sell my TRUCK. I have just been messing with it in the garage, seeing if it starts or not daily. So far, it seems like it DOESN'T start right up most of the time, but will ALWAYS start if I'm persistent enough.

[smufguy]

resolder all the solders on the bottom of the relay once its opened up. I did the same to 3 of the relays i have and they all work fine now. Its just what carotman mentioned, the hairline cracks make a bad circuitry.

[accord250]

Wow, sounds good to me! Is this a recuring problem, or it it rare to have to revisit it once it's fixed or replaced? Tell you what though, I'm NOT putting that relay back where I found it!

[AccordEpicenter]

if you resolder them, make sure they arent cold joints. Here is my reccomendation (ive done lots of these) id remove the old solder using a solder sucker or desoldering braid (i prefer solder sucker) and then resolder the connection using new solder. Please note, you must do all the connections on the board at once or the heat will crack the rest of them, compromising the work you just did (and may need to do again)

[accord250]

Thanks for that tip, definately worth a try. I do happen to have decent soldering skills, and some de-soldering braid.

[L Squared]

I just replaced my main relay and it's a bitch to get to. But...to awnser your question it's a dealer only part about $65 bucks where i go but i imagine hondaautomotiveparts.com has it cheaper.

-L²

[accord250]

Well I seem to have fixed it by de-soldering / re-soldering the connections on the PCB. I ran the 3 tests on it after I finished and they all checked out. Thanks again guys!