I noticed my car has been leaking power steering fluid so i jacked up the car and found it leaking from a torn boot on the passenger side of the rack n pinon (its above the cv-joint boot), but the drivers side boot is also torn but its not leaking, now can i just replace the torn boot thats leaking or did the passenger side of the rack n pinon go bad? also the leak is getting worse, it was just a drop here and there and now im leaving big puddles. I appreciate all the help guys!
When mine started leaking like that I just swapped in out for a remanufactured one. The total price for the parts, fluids, etc was about $200. A mechanic would probably want $500+.
It sounds like the control valve is the priblem though:
NHTSA Item Number: 005241
Component: STEERING:GEAR:RACK
Summary:
DIAGNOSING STEERING RACK LEAKS-RACKS DON'T ALWAYS NEED NEW RACK END SEALS, EVEN FLUID SPEWING FROM BOTH ENDS-PROBLEM AMY BE LEAKY CONTROL UNIT THAT CAN FIXED WI THOUT REMOVING RACK-BEFORE PULL RACK OUT OF CAR, SLIDE BOTH BOOTS BACK AND CLEAN RACK, GEAR HOUSING, AND CYLINDER-START ENGINE AND TURN STEERING WHEEL BACK AND FORTH UNTIL YOU SEE WHICH END OF RACK LEAKING- IF RIGHT END LEAKING, RESEAL RACK -IF LEAK COMING FROM LEFT END, RESEAL CONTROL UNIT FIRST-ALL HONDA ACCORD AND PR ELUDE MODELS TLH
If you use the factory service manual you might be able to fix it this way for less money. Since my boots were all tornup I just replaced the whole thing. It was enough work I didn't want to have to deal with it again so I figured it was worth the extra money for parts.
Mike
hey thanks for the help, i called around and the cheapest rebuilt rack n pinon i can get is 300 with the core (400 without core) damn thats expensive, i asked if they had a do it yourself kit to rebuild the rack n pinon with new boots and seals, they have one for 15.99, has anyone ever fixed there rack n pinon themself with this kit? or is it better off to just buy the whole assembly?
I saw a kit on NOPI once for $60. Do you live in a small town? Those prices are terrible. You could probably get a rack rebuiilt by Honda for close to that much.
If you're not able to find a better deal on a remanned rack (or drive somewhere else and save $150) replacing the seals might be worth a try. If it stops leaking you'll still need an alignment afterward. If the problem was caused by the sticking control valve you'll be in the same position you are now.
Mike
Yea i live in the mojave desert, those prices are from a local autozone and kragens, what do you think of a rack n pinon from a salvage yard? i can get one for 45 bucks, the problem is how do i know if its in working condition? you think i should try going that way?
try www.partsamerica.com that is Kragens online store. they have one for $200. Maybe get that part number and take it to Kragen and see if they can order it.
-Travis-
I am about to take mine in tomorrow to have the rack replaced. I am allowing myself this $500+ luxury as a new car will be "somewhat" more expensive.
I actually went through the trouble of replacing the rack boots of which you speak and them had to pay $60 more for an alignment because I obviously didn't get the tie rod ends back on exactly as they were - even though I measured.
Anyway, the boots are just dust seals. If you have fluid in them you are leaking at the rack seals. Mine was not too bad so I figured replacing the boots might buy me another year. Now, four months later, it is puking fluid out of the gear box so I had to pull the belt and drive without P/S.
From what I hear you had better just replace the rack.
Originally posted by DBMaster
I am about to take mine in tomorrow to have the rack replaced. I am allowing myself this $500+ luxury as a new car will be "somewhat" more expensive.
I actually went through the trouble of replacing the rack boots of which you speak and them had to pay $60 more for an alignment because I obviously didn't get the tie rod ends back on exactly as they were - even though I measured.
Anyway, the boots are just dust seals. If you have fluid in them you are leaking at the rack seals. Mine was not too bad so I figured replacing the boots might buy me another year. Now, four months later, it is puking fluid out of the gear box so I had to pull the belt and drive without P/S.
From what I hear you had better just replace the rack.
I have also heard from a good Honda mechanic that the quality of rebuilt racks out there varies a lot. If you are planning to keep the car a long time you might want to keep that in mind before going too cheap. $200+ probably buys you a decent rebuilt unit.
i was at the salvage yard today and was checking out the rack n pinons, i thought i found a good one untill i removed the boots and power steering fluid came out of the boots, is it normal to have fluid in the boots or should it be dry in the boots? also are all the rack n pinons the same from 86 to 89?
Well, to answer your first question, if there is fluid in the boots, the seals are bad. They are dust seals only. I have a feeling that all of these cars have at least a slow leak somewhere. Just a function of age and wear. My leaks just slowly progressed to what they are now - a big mess of leaks! Still, considering how little I have had to spend on repairs over the life of the car it's not such a bad thing. Now, all of the people telling me to get a new car have more ammunition. Leave it to me to be contrary and fix it.
Sorry I can't answer your other question.
you know... and some of you might get mad at me for saying / doing this... but i have a power steering leak too a while ago in my 88. i looked around, and my boots were fine, but my ends looked a little wet. and i had noticable leakage from the little box under the rack close to underneath where the pedals would be. it had several small bent hoses going to it, im not sure what part it was, but im pretty sure thats where it was leaking. anyway, i needed to fix the problem fast, so i bought some of the valvoline max-life power steering fluid leak-stop stuff, that wasnt approved for hondas (this was after trying the honda oem stuff)... and lo and behold... it worked. no problems since. your problem though sounds much more severe than mine was. oh yea, i need a new rack too, but the mechanic i have been woriking with is in jail now
Well i went to another salvage yard today and found a rack n pinon in mint condition, looks damn near brand new, i dropped the exhaust, shift linkage,brackets, ball joints, center beam and i couldnt get that Sucker out? It seems like theres a rod (pinon) coming down and holding the top of the gear box i can only feel with my fingers up in there, anybody know how to get this mother out? if you look from the top of the engine you cant see where that rod goes to its got a metal cover welded on, im going tommorow in the morning because i dont want anyone taking it, its damn near out, please if anyone can help, thanks
Did you remove the U-joint bolt?
In my haynes manual it says after you drop the crossmember, exhaust, etc. You need to push the rack all the way to the right, lower the unit, seperate the steering shaft from the steering gear input shaft and manipulate the steering gear to remove it from the car
manipulate the steering gear to remove
rotflmao
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yeah i know, thats haynes for ya
Wheres the u-joint bolt? i had everything removed and i cant move the rack right or left, the passenger side can move up and down, but the driver side is stuck
the haynes manual says it is just above the drivers side floor panel, near the pedals (i am thinking they mean inside the car). sorry I cant really help you more. I have never done this myself so i just dont know everything that you have to do
sorry, double post
So if i remove that u-joint it should release the rack n pinon hopefully
I just got the car back. As I suspected, the grease in the driver's side front wheel well was my outboard CV boot which decided to go this week as well. I know both outboard boots had cracks in them. I decided to let the shop replace both axles shafts - I never go halfway on this car as I need to fix everything I know is wrong whenever I know about it.
You guys don't want to know what I spent!
the u joint is inside the car. Its under a plastic cone shaped cover under the dash on the steering shaft
hey thanks for your guys help, i was able to get thr rack n pinon off. the only thing i couldnt get off was the ball joints so i had to unscrew them from the rack n pinon and leave them, anybody know how i can take them off? i tried a crowbar and a hammer and it didnt even budge
they make a tool for that, might see if the local autoparts store has one you can rent out from them and theres a how-to for the lower https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15247
Last edited by Vinny; 09-04-2003 at 11:01 AM.
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