Body Work
I backed into a BMW (don't ask) and dented my trunklid in like a mofo.
Fortunately, I was able to bend it back so that you cannot even tell it happened, except for the bottom (below the lights) on the lid. This part has a few dents in it, scrapes and shit. Structurally, it is not bent there, just the metal that's seen. So, how might I bondo this? I have to sand it down to bare metal right? I don't really want to do it by hand, but I don't have a dremel. Suggestions would be nice...
theres only one suggestion i can give !!
<----------loook
<---------------over
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<--------------------numbnuts.
-Travis-
He already knows to use bondo, he wants to know how to use it.
I may only get 13-18 MPG, but try and follow me in the mud and you'll get stuck.
alright alright. ill stop being an asshole for 2.5
a dremmel would be a good investment. not just for EVERYTHING to do with the car.but also INFINATE home applications. school projects. its fucking unbeleivable the shit you can do with one of those.
any way.
get some sand paper....rough gritt go down to the metal. it isnt that hard. trust. and the get some bondo and bondo applicator things. they are like rubber scrapers that you can get at walmart next tothe cans of bondo.
if you do bondo in cold weather it takes for ever to dry. if you do it in the heat--mid day sun hot as fuck it dries faster then you can get it on the car. this is a problem when you want to smoooth it out and its so dry it just starts to rub off...hard to explain youll see soon enough
my advice....do it at dusk or something when its like mid 70s or jsutcooler out. then just take your time. follow the instructions on the can. its pretty easy and you can figure it out on your own. dont mix a lot. only what you will need and work FAST.
rubber gloves help like woah. not only to clean up--you dont have to rubb the shit off your skin but it helps in applying it. open skin fucks up drying bondo. rubber gloves make your finger act like a rubber scraper so you can manipulate it. plus yoou can mix it with your finger tips and aply it with such. it makes it a more thurough mix in my opinion.
hard to explain all this...its shit you jsut learn over time. i have a PHD in bondo application i got from MITbut if you have any more questions go ahead and ask.
-Travis-
instead of sanding, get some aircraft coating remover, it takes everything right off, it makes the paint and primer bubble up, then you just have to scrap it off, thats how i am stripping my whole car now, when i was home in june, i finished the trunk (stripping and primering) in 2 hours. Just make sure you get some tar and gunk remover to clean up the residue left over. MUCH EASIER THAN SANDING and half the time.
Hold on now. You have to be 310% sure that after you use that, you get ALL of it off. If there's any of that lingering on the surface, say goodbye to whatever paint you do put on there. That's some VERY potent stuff. I used it when I began my ground-up resto. on my OpelGT. I washed the every living shit out of the car after I AirCrafted it and still the paint bubbled. I'd suggest a 800-1000 grit wet sand of the bare metal that was exposed from the remover. Then multiple washes of the car with the most high detergent wash you can find. Even dish detergent would not be a bad idea a few times. However when you wash it, be sure to do it out in the sun, don't let the soap dry on the surface, and make sure you dry it all off very well otherwise you'll develop very very fine surface rust which can lead to trouble in the future.Originally posted by NOAHS88accord
instead of sanding, get some aircraft coating remover, it takes everything right off, it makes the paint and primer bubble up, then you just have to scrap it off, thats how i am stripping my whole car now, when i was home in june, i finished the trunk (stripping and primering) in 2 hours. Just make sure you get some tar and gunk remover to clean up the residue left over. MUCH EASIER THAN SANDING and half the time.
Sorry for goin off topic in this response, just felt the need for this little PSA.
-Mark D.
By the time you fix the dent and paint the trunk you would have probably spent more money and time than just finding a good trunk lid at the wreckers.
"AAHHH Teamsters, If only I could be as lazy and surley as a Teamster." Quote by Homer Simpson
2 and 1/2 words for ya
Dolly 'n Hammer
then use only a VERY LIGHT skin of puddy and paint
it will take longer but give you better results.
Originally posted by 87Hybrid
By the time you fix the dent and paint the trunk you would have probably spent more money and time than just finding a good trunk lid at the wreckers.
My thoughts exactly. If its not noticeable anywhere except the bottom part there, I'm sure it won't be too bad until you can find one from the junkyard....
- Drive it like a Rental!
My 89 Ex-i on Car Domain
Can't find the lid at any junkers. Rare color. I figure fixing it and painting the bottom part a color that is slightly off isn't that big of a deal.
Well, I took off the rubber sheath thingies on the wheel wells and ground off the rust and put bondo on the rust dents I had and primered it all. Looks nice and smooth. I gotta get some paint to finish it all off, but overall it looks great. Next up is the trunk lid. Oh, and I scraped off the rubber shit on the back window and painted it. Lookin' nice!
the real test will be in about 9months-1 year when most bondo jobs start loosening up.
anyway, get pics!!
I made sure the bondo was well bonded to the car... and I didnt use a whole lot either. I hope I'm fine... if not, oh well, I'll just do it again. I think for my trunklid I will use JB Weld.. maybe that will hold longer.
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