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Thread: PROJECT , TURBO ( NXRacer )

  1. #1

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    Exclamation PROJECT , TURBO ( NXRacer )

    Ok, i KNOW there are a few threads regarding 'what do i need to turbo my car' but i want to get them all consilidated to one concise thread that lists ONLY what is necessary for a motor to handle more then 6-12 lbs (which a stock motor can handle). I'm looking to build up a motor in the VERY NEAR future and a few other members are looking to build in the coming year.

    Now i assume that seans turbo kit will be used. This would include turbo, header, downpipe. What i'm looking for is pistons, rings, rods, rod bearings, crank (if necessary), valve springs, valves, injectors, fuel pump, FPR, spark plugs, plug wires, Ignition controler, boost regulator (not home made) blow off valve, FMIC and others. I'd like to get a variety of choices so we have some choice as to price and availability. I'm not looking for custom parts if possible. I dont wanna have to pay $400 for a set of custom pistons if at all possible. Also, i'm looking for whats really necessary. Gauges and other visual goodies are not required to have a turbo charged car so they're lower on my list of things to get.

    PLEASE LIST PARTS AND/OR PART NUMBERS ONLY. Keep the whoring down to a minimum please. I'm looking for this to end up as a technical type thread if possible.

    All prices i list are from Horsepower Freaks

    part manufacturers and part #'s if possible.
    1) Seans ECM - $675
    2) Turbo - $however cheap you can find one on ebay or other place
    3) Turbo manifold - Seans, or JGS
    4) Pistons - stock/oem good for up to 12psi, or Diamond Pistons
    5) Rings - OEM or with diamond piston package
    6) Rods - OEM or Eagle Rods
    7) Rod bearingsn - OEM
    8) Crank - stock/oem
    9) Springs - see #7
    10) head package - $1400 - More info here (not for daily drivers)
    11) Injectors - (Honda V6 injectors?)
    12) Fuel pump (chevy pump that sean suggests using)
    13) FPR AEM 25-300B (86-89) LXi/SEi $163.06)
    Cosmo Racing (FPUNV 86-89 $90.50)
    14)Plug wires- MSD Heli Coil MSD 3104 4 cyl multi-angle plug/socket $37.13
    15) Ignition system (MSD offers a variety for boost applications) - or Seans Kit
    16) BOV - TurboXS (TURX BOV-H) $140
    Greddy (GRED 11501650) $183
    HKS (HKS 1421-SA001) $195
    17) FMIC - There is a huge variety of different ones available for all kinds of prices. Anybody have a preferance? I think personally i'll go FMIC as opposed to water injection (which i dont even understand).
    18)h-2 LSD $225 from AZracemachine

    Other suggestions welcome.
    Last edited by NXRacer; 01-15-2004 at 12:53 PM.
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing



  2. #2
    LXi User Magny's Avatar
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    hmmm, i can help ya here for the rest of them. let me go diggin these up, i got lots of sites for the best things possible.

  3. #3

    bobafett's Avatar
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    ok, well i dont have parts numbers on much of this, but hopefully i can be of some assistance here:

    downpipe: sean
    turbo manifold: sean
    charge pipes: sean
    mandrel bent exhaust: sean

    that takes care of most of the tricky stuff, and there isnt really a part number, but since he is now selling it all, and he is the only one, its a nice start.

    skinny little FMIC http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2430569521 $299

    cosmo racing adjustable FPR : $100ish on ebay

    looks like it will cost APPX $500 for JE pistons with rings. (would need to be custom made)
    eagle rods, appx $400 for a set. (would need to be custom made)

    h-2 LSD $225 from AZracemachine

  4. #4
    SEi User Low Tek's Avatar
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    1) Pistons
    2) Rings
    3) Rods
    4) Rod bearings
    *Race Engineering* $1100 - rods are LS integra rods (thicker), and the pistons low compression, deep dish turbo pistons, rings are JE


    6) Springs?
    7) Valves?

    *springs are from KMS and the retainers are titanium $500 for the set*

    *valves, came from local parts store -think it was like autozone's performance warehouse $50*

    the rest is commin from seans ecm deal $650


    hope this helps
    'honda makes people happy'

  5. #5
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    why not use shotpeened stock rods? Theyll hold up just fine.
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

  6. #6
    SEi User Low Tek's Avatar
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    I have a new higher RPM of 8000 instead of stock, and I am runnin a 20psi boost
    'honda makes people happy'

  7. #7
    2.0Si User 3G Jester's Avatar
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    i have the accord v6. ill look in the manual in there and see if there is any sort of information on injectors

    -Travis-

  8. #8
    SEi User 2old_honda's Avatar
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    Originally posted by AccordEpicenter
    why not use shotpeened stock rods? Theyll hold up just fine.
    Do you know how much boost they would handle? I am debating on doing that or having custom rods made. How much does shotpeening cost? Or does anyone know if rods from another car will fit the a20?

  9. #9
    SEi User Low Tek's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Low Tek
    1) Pistons
    2) Rings
    3) Rods
    4) Rod bearings
    *Race Engineering* $1100 - rods are LS integra rods (thicker), and the pistons low compression, deep dish turbo pistons, rings are JE
    mine will hold 20+ boost
    'honda makes people happy'

  10. #10

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    So b18 rods will work on our motors? I wish we could get deffinate measurements and dimensions so we could find some rods, pistons/rings that would fit so we dont have to have custom ones made that cost an arm and a leg.
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  11. #11
    SEi User Low Tek's Avatar
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    the integra rods are a direct fit, but the pin set is different, but if you are doin custom pistons anyway, they can set the pin anywhere.

    as far as anything fitting from another motor, good luck, cause we have the odd ball bore size.. but if you goto the place I went they have the speca already (seeming I have been through them)

    hope it helps some, kinda expensive.. but what do you expect, it is not acura, or civic..
    'honda makes people happy'

  12. #12
    LX User
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    If you are running high boost I would think about sleeving the block!

    Or will the cast iron hold up?

    Valves??? WHY??? Retainers ok but VALVES?

    They will just make the air flow better anyway...your going turbo so there is no point!

    You should not need to buy larger injectors for the engine....they will be hard to control under boost...because the boost level changes with throttle position!

    Use the stock injectors or a slight upgrade and tune them with a V-AFC or S-AFC. THEN...run two HUGE injectors to the charge pipe right before the butteryfly valve and just have these come on under boost. Tune with a pulse width computer and exhaust temp sensor!

  13. #13
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    our cast iron blocks will take anything you throw at them... no sleeving needed. Upraded valves are for peace of mind, the added heat resistance is one less thing to go wrong. If you run enough boost youre gonna need bigger injectors somwhere along the line. I think justin ran stock rods to like 19psi... maybe sean too.
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

  14. #14

    A20A1's Avatar
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    S2000 rods? I dunno, but it's 2 . 0.
    - llia


  15. #15
    SEi User 2old_honda's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Low Tek
    the integra rods are a direct fit, but the pin set is different, but if you are doin custom pistons anyway, they can set the pin anywhere.

    very interesting. what about the pin is different?

  16. #16
    SEi User 2old_honda's Avatar
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    anyone know how long the stock a20 rods are?

  17. #17
    SEi User Low Tek's Avatar
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    the pin height (sp) is shorter
    'honda makes people happy'

  18. #18
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    stock a20a rods are a few thou longer then a b18 rod. all this crazy ness about injectors. just do what i do. tell my ecm what size they are and let it do the work. they are not hard to control under boost. typically idle will be the hell out of you. althought the driver box in the ecm kits will run 1400cc injectors at a 800rpm idle just fine.im currently running 400cc injectors and i need ot step into something bigger soon.

    as for rods the stock ones are pretty stout. they will take 18-20psi of boost without breaking ( thats the most amount of boost anybodys run for and extened period of time. ) so id think unless you were shining for 11's or something youd be just fine with stock stuff.

    the block has 300 tho thick cylinder walls. iver repeatadldy int eh past told people not to bore more then 030 becuase ive seen one or 2 a20a crack between the cylinder isn a very few super high rpm applications when bored to 60 70 80 over. as for the crank its a stout peice have it shout peened nitrided balance and maganafluzed before any machine work. chances are the stock used crank will only need minor polishing for resue.

    the bearings i hgihly sugest sarting with spares and plaing the match a sheel to clearance games. id also sugest deburing the i pasages in the block. its easy to do and kep shit out of the rods.

    good pistons call wiseco there $90 a peice so that $360 a set including wrist pins. while your at it make sure to get 2mm over the stock 19mm wristpin.

    headgasket ? i havent blown mine to date but im looking to coper for my new motor.

    im also looking to ARP for some rod bolts for my connecting rods. the stock valvetrian is fine unless you plan to rev over 7000rpm.

    consider studs a priority and im already on the ball with a stud kit being delivered for my review monday. if i like it then ill order a few more and keep them on hand for you guys. figure cylinder head and main bearing studs.

    im looking into a high volume oil pump for the future of the deal but thts BIG $$$ so just reuse a good stock one or swing by teh dealer and pick up a new one for like $80 or so.

    aside from all that thats the most work that should need to be done for it to take some pretty serious boost. also if anybody lives near cometic ( the head gasket people) drop a stock a20a gasket by and see if they will make one up !! thanx !
    Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site

    WWW.ACCORDCENTRAL.COM

  19. #19
    SEi User 2old_honda's Avatar
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    Sean, thanks a lot for the info. Let me ask you a question. A few months ago I bought a set of JE 10:1 pistons from a member here. This was when I was just going to stick with N/A. Well now that I know I will be going turbo I am wondering if I should use these pistons? Do you think shotpeened rods with the JE 10:1 pistons would be ok? I want to run a decent amount of boost so I want to do everything right the first time. Also' put me down for a set of ARP bolts/studs I will be needing them. thanks

  20. #20

    bobafett's Avatar
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    10:1 seems like a lot for a 3g, but think of b series with stock internals. jeez they are like 10.5:1 or higher. :P be very carefull about engine management if u use those.

  21. #21

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    DUDE sean. when you get time can you re-write/edit your post in english please? thanks
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  22. #22
    SEi User Low Tek's Avatar
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    Last edited by Low Tek; 09-05-2003 at 11:35 AM.
    'honda makes people happy'

  23. #23
    SEi User 2old_honda's Avatar
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    haha. hey I could read/understand it. well sorta :lol

  24. #24
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    engine management for me is easy is just pull spark 10:1 will make the motor alot snappier and more fun to drive.
    Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site

    WWW.ACCORDCENTRAL.COM

  25. #25
    SEi User 2old_honda's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Sean
    engine management for me is easy is just pull spark 10:1 will make the motor alot snappier and more fun to drive.
    so you think the higher compresion will be ok? I really dont want to be shooting rods out the block or anything :lol

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