Engine swap opinions and info thread.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

I thought I should start a thread, where people can tell about the swaps they have done, or are going to do.. and why they choose to do that particular swap.


I guess I will start it off;

I plan to swap in a USDM B18C1.
I think it will be the best swap, because seeing as it is USDM b18, it won't cost that much. It will have around 160/170hp depending on the year.. And the thing that is so much better than the B20, is the fact that there is TONS of aftermarket support for it.

I plan on running this with a Full- race turbo setup, and my goal is in the 13's for the 1/4.. that is just being conservative too.

I still don't know all I need to do the swap, but I have plenty of time to find out.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

ttt

[OldSchoolSwap]

The only problems that you will have with that motor is the following:

-Hydro Tranny (you will need a cable from a 91 Teg)
-OBD compatabilities
-Engine mount brackets (again, will need 91 Teg)
-Half shaft (newer B series have a female shaft, you need the male 91 shaft)

Cant think right now but thats what i have on top of my head

[NXRacer]

no swap, TURBO BABY! :super:

:lol

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Oh, but I plan a swap and a turbo even better.

[v4lu3s]

usdm b18c1 engines dont come cheaply....me and my gf got a complete swap for $2700 which was at cost for the shop...

[RobT5580]

That sounds a bit high cause i know i could get a JDM one for atleast that price. I personally think we get raped for Honda Motors cause you could buy much nicer motors (nissan, toyota) for less but the demand for Vtec motors must be high cause 5k for a B18C5 is a lot.

[rabbit_66_61]

Engine b16a

-Place Racing
-engine mounts
-axles
-shift rod
-power steering bracket

-ACT Stage 3 clutch, Heavy duty pressure plate and Street/Strip disc
-ACT Lightened Flywheel 8.8lbs Chromoly
-battery relocation kit

Transmission
-1st generation b16a (cable type) has to be the S1 tranny


COMPLETE type-r head (sand blasted and hot tanked
no port and polish) with jdm ctr cams and valve train

type-r intake manifold
with bored throttle body

honda upper gasket kit will all seals

overbore ctr pistons with rings and everything

keep b16a rods

type-r injectors (265cc)

type-r fuel rail

chipped pr3 ecu from ericks racing

feild vtec controller

cold air intake

jdm DC sports header 4-1

b&m fpr

stock ignition



this is the list as of now (with help from wickedaccord)

I'm just still waiting on the price quote from a shop around here

but as of now thats my all motor set up

[3G Jester]

Originally posted by rabbit_66_61
Engine b16a

stock ignition

most people run MSD ignition with a b swap

[rabbit_66_61]

yea i still have to talk to them and get things final but as for the stock ignition it can be done but i know msd is good i still might go with that

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Ya, I have a huge list for the plans... thats what school is for isnt it?! ... thats all I have been doing lately. Man I need a way to get more money. But right now, I plan to have the swap done after next winter.

[v4lu3s]

Originally posted by RobT5580
That sounds a bit high cause i know i could get a JDM one for atleast that price. I personally think we get raped for Honda Motors cause you could buy much nicer motors (nissan, toyota) for less but the demand for Vtec motors must be high cause 5k for a B18C5 is a lot.

shop around and see what a salvage yard wants for a USDM engine....the two b18c1's i have bought so far were both $2700, and both were sold at cost instead of teh $3300-3800 the yards wanted to get for them. the JDM engines are cheaper usually cause of more of them out there...the demand for honda vtec engines is very high and the supply is running out since they stopped making B series and H series. as time passes they will get to costing more and more if demand doesnt drop...im jsut frustrated that more places are not willing to special order teh b20a's....

[RobT5580]

I do know one kid that got raped for his B18C1 for $5k but it had like 3,000 miles on it so it was debateble. I do know salvage yards are expensive but thats ridiculous when you can buy the JDM equivelent with more HP for around the same price.

Yeah and i called all over for B20As and one place called his exporter and they flagged the B20A from shipped so he could no longer get them when he got some before. But the way it seems is a lot of places were stuck with them because nobody knew what they were for so the lost money on them and a few members were lucky enough to get them for dirt cheap. But i would imagine its only gonna get worse until they are all gone becuause a lot of people here say they want them but i see at least 3 for sale and nobody took them. Oh well i have mine so im happy but i paid a fair amount for mine.

[PogiLXI]

damn, for that much money, just Turbo the A20. I know they dont make turbo kits for the motor. But It wouldnt cost that much compared to an engine swap, Plus a Turbo.

A20=Iron= Closed Deck, I think, If I remember right.

B Series= Aluminum= Vtec, so?


Hey, what are the A20 heads made of????

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Yes, but does the A20 have forged pistons or rods? Or can I even get them? I plan on running fairly high boost, and racing almost fairly often at the track.

And the B18 has a lot more aftermarket support then the A20. I just think that the B18 is a better motor overall to be putting through hell.

[PogiLXI]

im not sure, not Stock. ask, grrr. I cant rememeber his name. his Turbo hatchback, has a built A20. Im sure you can get Forged pistons and Rods, with Low Comp Pistons. There are more Aftermarket Suport for those b-serries, but they still cost mad chesee. if your going highboost. I would Rather have a Iron Block, then a aluminum block.

b-serries NA motors, are Alot more forgiving then comparible Turbo motors. and turing a NA motor into Turbo motor. your going to have to change alot of things. but one thing you CANT change is the block, and the most wanted type of block is a Iron Block.

Iron Takes Pressure better then aluminum, Along with heat.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Hmm... I c.
well I have plenty of time before I can afford either one, so I have time to look in to it more, and decide which route to take.

[mykwikcoupe]

I posted a thread a while back about a book I was reading for my B20a turbo project. I have experience with domestics but not imports so i got a book called How to modify the D,B and H series Honda/Acura engines for street and drad racing performance" by Mike Kojima.

It is a great book. Lots of info. In it it states that the aluminum bnlock of the B series engine even without a closed deck conversion and with no internal mods can handle either a 10 psi turbo or a 100 shot of nos. If you shotpeen, de-burr, and balance the internal of the engine (with the stock internals from Honda) you can go as high as 15 psi and then the limitation is the open block design.

now my turbosetup is rated for up to 20 psi but as far as dyno time and tuning go i am planning on about 14-18 psi. Thats with the stock block with closed deck conversion and sleeves. treated stock crank, aftermarket rods and pistons. I beleive that as long as i get the pros to tune it and I avoid detonation and the other hasards of going from a NA to turbo setup i should keep the Honda life and the power of the setup. I am hoping for at least 100K plus. thats why I am going overboard with the rods and the block.

But do read the book. It only takes a week or two and you can probably order it at the library. Mine was 18. 95 at Barnes and Noble