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Thread: Cam Installation

  1. #1
    LX User Versanick's Avatar
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    Question Cam Installation

    I've been looking into purchasing a racier cam for my 86 accord lx-i, but I don't know what else I'll need. I've priced around, many for $100 dollars, including places that will grind my cam... but someone told me I need new springs and lifters... what else will I need to purchase to make a racing cam (not a wild one, i just say racing b/c its more wild than stock), work with my accord... I have so many mechanical friends and they don't know about this honda business... they're all into big block american v8's and such... they still aren't used to an OVERHEAD cam even! lol... but they're willing to help... I just need to know what else I'd have to buy... the installation will look like fun...

    I've taken off the valve cover thing and seen the cam (its sexy)... and I'm wishing (although I doubt its possible) that I could just simply slap a different cam in there and keep everything else the same (I love being ignorant... too bad I have to learn now!)... thanks for reading.



  2. #2

    YK86's Avatar
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    The only thing you may want is the cam seal and a valve cover gasket. You don't need new springs or anything unless they are really worn.
    www.b20accord.com

  3. #3
    LX User
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    i doubt you'll be able to find new lifters for it since the car doesn't have them. I didn't buy any new parts. Even reused the gaskets and no leaks...Can't really say i noticed a shocker in the power dept thought...my 2 cents
    In the end...it doesn't even matter.
    88 Lxi, 5spd swap w/ Aasco 8lb flywheel/Cai,AccelCoil,NologyWires,SilverstoneSparks/DC421,ColtCam,Remachined Head&Tb...NitrousWorks 40shot

  4. #4

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Remove Negative battery cable
    Remove valve cover
    Remove spark plugs & wires
    Remove distributor

    Loosen the Cam Gear bolt
    Allign #1 cyl to TDC
    Zip tie the timing bet to the Cam gear
    Remove rocker arm assebly
    begin to tilt camshaft, so you can slide the cam gear off... be careful not to lose any pieces... Hold the cam gear up to maintain belt tension so the bottom half of the timing belt wont slip off.
    remove cam seal
    remove camshaft

    Install new camshaft
    install cam seal
    install cam gear
    install cam gear bolt
    install rocker assembly
    install distributor
    cut off zip ties

    With the new camshaft installed all the way... turn the crank a few times to check for binding.
    Now begin to adjust the valve gapping... the cam card will show you the proper gaps.

    reinstall valve cover and ground wire.
    reinstall sparkplugs and wires
    reconnect negative battery cable.
    check oil level.
    start engine.
    have fun.
    - llia


  5. #5
    1988starter
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    Hey I can do that no actually I had already planned to.

  6. #6

    A20A1's Avatar
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    ... reposted info below.
    Last edited by A20A1; 11-01-2002 at 12:44 AM.
    - llia


  7. #7
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    Do you want more power on bottom end or top end?
    Most want power at bottom end 0-60.
    You could try to advance (stock)cam a few degress

  8. #8
    lol@ the idiots trying to sell you lifters for your OHC car! Ask them if they also stock chome-molly pushrods for us too :lol :flipa:
    Last edited by POS carb; 06-22-2002 at 08:11 AM.
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau

  9. #9
    LX User Versanick's Avatar
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    thanks a whole lot

    thanks for all the info, it's extremely helpful

    I was looking for a pretty wild cam, to help power anywhere... I was told the cam can make a huge difference with an improved fuel system, or very little at all depending on the car... my friend told me some kids put in just cams for the 'put put' sound that everyone thinks is cool, but they don't have a clue what they're doing, and sometimes the just beat the hell out of their cars and the hardly move faster... but he says that some cars really improve power w/a wilder cam because it allows the fuel intake to be opened longer every cycle, changing the idle, and changing sometimes how much throttle you need to give it, just to achieve the same RPMs as with a normal cam..

    thanks a million, especially A20A1, that makes it real easy.

    take care.

  10. #10

    A20A1's Avatar
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    here is the pic that club photo didn't let me share.

    In the left pic it shows the:
    Reground cam
    Valve clearance gapping tool
    Socket set (at least 10mm thru 19mm)
    Zip ties (the good thick plastic kind)

    You'll also need a flat head screw driver
    and a 12mm wrench.


    In the right pic it shows the:
    Valve cover removed
    Distributor removed
    Cam Gear bolt loosened
    Cam gear zip tied
    spark plugs and wires removed

    #1 Cylinder should be @ TDC before you zip tie but after you loosen the cam gear bolt.
    Last edited by A20A1; 10-31-2002 at 08:44 PM.
    - llia


  11. #11
    Banned
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    FUCXK YOU MAN

  12. #12
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    uh Okay !




    Cool pics though A20A1
    89 efi conversion
    17" katana, lude arms, full 2" exhaust/hollowed cat, Ractive intake, centerforce dual friction, msd coil/wires

  13. #13

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Whats up man?
    - llia


  14. #14
    SEi User
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    thanks for the how 2
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  15. #15
    3Geez Veteran smufguy's Avatar
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    hahaha, thats nate, just out of the blue.

    damn nate, ur alive. Where the hell have u been?

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