is it a regrind or a new cam?
For a New cam 300 is okay.
is it a regrind or a new cam?
For a New cam 300 is okay.
- llia
I paid about 150 for my grind but I used an old cam
Actually if you want to get technical, the exhust valve is slighly open when the intake opens..and its quite healthy for the engine....I dont remember the site, but its the racer brown datsun manual he created, and is very in-depth on the head, if you have the time its a good read.Originally Posted by BootMachine
I have a 1.8 8 valve in my gti and it has a TT cam with a 268 grind as well as a TT catback. It rips, plain and simple. However, there's still some lope at idle with only that grind. I"d say don't go much bigger than that just so it can cold start and whatnot. If that's not an issue, get a 276. Enjoy!!
Alex
well of you guys that have gotten cam grinds by the various companies which ones would you reccomend? most importantly what were the gains like on getting a grind? (im deciding wheter to get one done or not?)
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
I've praised 'em before and I'll praise 'em again. I have an Openloop mild grind and it flat out rocks. The gains were quite noticable from about 3700 all the way to redline (and beyond but Openloop hasn't been able to figure out how far because they can't defeat the LXi revlimiter). It idles smoothly as well.
hmm im looking for one that is better at the lowerend (i want better preformance at the lower end, i dont race my car everytime i drive it)
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
I've got a gude cam that I'm installing hopfully next weekend but I still don't have an adjustable cam gear so I don't how well I'll be able to tune it! But I'll let ya know how it runs when it's done!
Chrome and paint don't equal speed and horse power!!
kool, yeah i want better preformance!
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
what did u have to pay for that , would u recomend openloop instead of colt ?Originally Posted by Sabz5150
i talk to sean a few days ago, and i was asked him which cam is the best for low power, and he said to stay with stock LXI cam, and get TB bored and matched to Intake manifold and port the head.
Alex.
I am all about the colt triflow man from 2800 on it is great and I noticed very little loss in low end.
If I didn't get the stage II? grind from Colt I would have went with the Stage II Tri-Flo grind.
- llia
I have the delta 272 installed from about 2500rpm to redline it pulls real strong and for $60 bucks it's a good deal
Thats hard to say because at the same time I installed the cam I also ported and polished the head if I had to guess I would say between 10 & 15% it made a very noticable difference tho, top end came alive
Alex, this might be a dumb question, but does the carb and the efi block use two different head and cams??? I knwo the dist holder is different on the efi head, but is the cam different? Also, if i get an after market cam, would i still be street legal? Im in NJ and the regulations are pretty much getting close to those of california. Dickheads would fail u for anything if they can.Originally Posted by shepherd79
Yeah the cams are different... on a side note I was reading somewhere that the cam profile can effect the actual CR... hmm.
Last edited by A20A1; 02-11-2004 at 09:09 PM.
- llia
when you swap a stock cam to a mild grind you will always effect the low end performance. As the duration and lift become larger it will obviously move the power band up the rpm scale. If anything a nontypical solution would be to get a custom grind that will increase the cam lift of a stock duration cam to increase the valve lift which will allow more flow. As I said not a typical procedure. Majority will always put a larger duration and larger lift cam.
Mid to top end rpm is where you will usually see improvements in a mild to wild camshaft. Going with a mild cam will give you a different low end grunt but more than likely minimal compared to what you'll see in the mid rpm range.
The cam control's how long the valve's stays open and at what height, the bigger the cam the more air fuel mixture the engine will pull in with the incressed volume of mixture your static c.r. will go up when it's compressed between the piston and the cyclinder head then when the spark plug ignites it cause's a greater explosion wich sends the piston down even faster, thats why a good exhaust system is important when the piston is pushing out the burnt mixture with more volume and there's to much back pressure you get nasty stuff like fouled plugs and carbon build up incressed cyclinder temp ect, your cam shaft need's to match your engine mod's it's allway's better to be under camed then over camed if your engine can't handle the flow whats the point your just wasting gas I would suggest starting with the exhaust system & header then fuel and air flow a good ignition system then go for the cam, and if you realy want to go nutz higher c.r. pistons oversize valve's port & polish the head and so on good luck
Last edited by ET2; 02-12-2004 at 05:16 PM.
I believe thats the notion derived from the high volume of gas going into the combustion chamber compared to the stock one. Volumetric efficiency baby. ooooooo, I need an Lxi Cam sometime soon. Dang. Wait, dont u have a LXI parts pile ? can i have the cam?Originally Posted by A20A1
I sold my se-i cam to someone on here... I still have a LX cam...
- llia
nah, dont worry about it, i got the lx cam too. cause its the A20A1 block, i was just hoping i could use the Efi cam and still be emission legal. I can get a cam grind, but i just dont wanna change the cam every two years when i go to emissions and be scared tthat it might fail emissions.
Delta has a mild cam I think its like 258 dur / 390 lift its not going to make a lot of power but it should'ent effect your emissions at all
Originally Posted by ET2
huh??? installing a cam will effect compression ratio. Putting a larger duration cam WILL NOT increase static compression. OPPOSITE a bigger cam will reduce static compression BUT increase dynamic c/r in the higher rpms. A big cam has crappy volumetric efficienct at low rpms (static c/r period) but at high rpms it will have by far more volume of a/f mixture at higher rpms in the combustion chamber.
Back pressure has nothing to do with fouled plugs. If you have the right a/f mixture and correct heat range of the plugs you WONT get fouled plugs.
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