Turbo vs Swap

[zero.counter]

I tell you what, get a money order for $45 and give me your physical address, I will send you a return receipt envelope with paid shipping back to me, and I will send you all of the credentials you need.

I did the same for someone else here on the board and he declined. The reason for the fee is for prep and shipping of the required docs and and an affadavit that you have read and understand what is presented. My time is worth a lot to me, so that is the only way you will get anything because you are a mechanic . What you spend your life doing and learning, I do as a freaking hobby.

Mechanics seem to be a dime a dozen around here and are usually distrusted and very shady unless it is a dealership who then is overpriced.

Otherwise, who gives a shit what you think Sean of 3Geez!

Consider my offer, if not then just stop bugging me...:super:

[zero.counter]

Besides, I love my anonymity. I just try to be helpful and retaliate when someone calls BS on me. You are not my friend or acquantance, so why should I offer any of my personal info for free?

I post info and that is that. I apologize if you hate me so, there is nothing I can do. I know that Jim and Mike (A20A1) are humble guys and it shows their age. Very intelligent fellas, you might want to follow in their footsteps. I think that you would become a better person overall.

I am done littering this thread, if you want to ban me or cut me down more, then feel free to but by PM at least. Have some decency man!

[Sean]

Originally posted by zero.counter
I tell you what, get a money order for $45 and give me your physical address, I will send you a return receipt envelope with paid shipping back to me, and I will send you all of the credentials you need.

$45 dollars. for a resume ? are you on crack. just scan and post that shit here. i know plenty of industry people i can call to confirm what ever shit you care to post. fuck if i wasnt in such a sticky situation with my soon to be employer i would go ahead and post who exactly im gonna be working for and exactly what programs im gonna be on.

Originally posted by zero.counter

I did the same for someone else here on the board and he declined. The reason for the fee is for prep and shipping of the required docs and and an affadavit that you have read and understand what is presented. My time is worth a lot to me, so that is the only way you will get anything because you are a mechanic . What you spend your life doing and learning, I do as a freaking hobby. .

Now thats hilarious. i dont care what you do for a hobby. i think that would lend you less crediabilty. i also will not pay for your lack of ability yo master the UPS box and $15.00 flat shipping rate upto 50lbs. via ground. Im still not impressed your still all blab and no action. show me what youve got ? im gonna be posting me dyno sheets. but as i siad. my accord is my dialy driven toy.

Originally posted by zero.counter
Mechanics seem to be a dime a dozen around here and are usually distrusted and very shady unless it is a dealership who then is overpriced..

Not my fualt you live around sleeze bags. maybe you feel more at home living around BSer's who do nothing but talk.

Originally posted by zero.counter


Otherwise, who gives a shit what you think Sean of 3Geez! :

Who cares wether or not you care. but if you have nothing useful to contribute then basically my feeling is fuck off.

Originally posted by zero.counter

Consider my offer, if not then just stop bugging me...:super:

Im not the one who trounced into this thread talking all kinds of shit. your the only person hear being a bother. i corrected you about the a20's durability. you didnt like that then you proceeded to try and discredit my work. basically my feeling is your a blow hard shit talker. im tired of poepl like you. look youve got a 240sx Slow ass car. even with a siliva engine. still a slow ass car. and a 88 something or other. who cares. if you have nothing to add other then the typically B16 chant go away. its the attitude you have that has created this aftermarket void for 3g's. you act like im actually going to make money off the stuff i sell here. what a bunch of BS.

get over your self.

[zero.counter]

Originally posted by Sean
$45 dollars. for a resume ? are you on crack. just scan and post that shit here. i know plenty of industry people i can call to confirm what ever shit you care to post. fuck if i wasnt in such a sticky situation with my soon to be employer i would go ahead and post who exactly im gonna be working for and exactly what programs im gonna be on.





Now thats hilarious. i dont care what you do for a hobby. i think that would lend you less crediabilty. i also will not pay for your lack of ability yo master the UPS box and $15.00 flat shipping rate upto 50lbs. via ground. Im still not impressed your still all blab and no action. show me what youve got ? im gonna be posting me dyno sheets. but as i siad. my accord is my dialy driven toy.



Not my fualt you live around sleeze bags. maybe you feel more at home living around BSer's who do nothing but talk.



Who cares wether or not you care. but if you have nothing useful to contribute then basically my feeling is fuck off.



Im not the one who trounced into this thread talking all kinds of shit. your the only person hear being a bother. i corrected you about the a20's durability. you didnt like that then you proceeded to try and discredit my work. basically my feeling is your a blow hard shit talker. im tired of poepl like you. look youve got a 240sx Slow ass car. even with a siliva engine. still a slow ass car. and a 88 something or other. who cares. if you have nothing to add other then the typically B16 chant go away. its the attitude you have that has created this aftermarket void for 3g's. you act like im actually going to make money off the stuff i sell here. what a bunch of BS.

get over your self.

:lol
Sean of 3Geez, you are supposed to be a moderator. You are breaking the rules of the forum that you swore to protect such as a crooked cop breaks the law, oh well... shame on you.

P.S. Hi, I am Zero.Counter, I am a pathological liar. I have nothing better to do with my time than bullshit people about fixing cars and what I have. All of my posts are fictional and have no value. I am going to hell and will burn for eternity. I don't even know how to put gas in my cars. What is an engine? I don't know. Blah blah blah blaaah blah. (Charlie brown reference)

I am nothing but B.S. and waste my time telling people lies about everything. I AM A BAD PERSON


This is fun, keep it up! :super:
If it helps you any, my poor feelings are hurt, me sad...

Goodbye cruel world.

[deadlight]

And then Zero shot himself...j/k man, how about this, you have 30,000 miles on your 180k mile or whatever DX right? That tells me you recently swapped engines, so you should throw out the whole swap idea to begin with. Everyone talks about B16 swaps here. How many people actually have one? I know of one guy, oldschoolswap. B20's are more common, but we're running on the assumption you have a new motor anyways...ready to mod. If you're like most of us here, you're strapped on cash, while I would kill for Sean's turbo kit, I just don't have the money. Now, your A20 motor is fine for power, which is why I don't get people's fixation with swaps unless they have money and want to run 12s. Try this: Cams, exhaust, weber carb, port polish head...You can get the last part cheap, just look around. Sorry but I thought I'd actually answer this kid's turbo vs. swap question.

[deadlight]

Alright, I'm going to correct myself before somebody else does. I did find a couple people just now with B18's also, but still, it's not a cheap route.

[Sean]

well to get back on topic im thinking i might build a dyno mule to beat the living hell out of to see exactly what it take to break a a20 block. crank rods etc. if the 200whp i have now isnt then i wouldnt sweet it alot. but the swaps wont offer the TQ of the turbo nor its easy drive manners. the only pinch ive seen so far is the clutch. traction can be fixed with better tires. ive had my hands ona few b series flywheels and they should fit although the starter looks to be a issue to be dealt with. im gonna scare up some parts and see what i can make happen with the cltuch thing.

but yet again dollar for dollar. turbo beats a swap hands down. and to be honest the a20a is on par or better then the b16,17,18 motors when turboed. its makes mroe low end grunt which in the world of street driving makes it alot faster.

[deadlight]

Turbo would definitely be the way to go if you were going to go that route, better reliability in my opinion than putting an engine in that shouldn't be there. I support turbos fully, and Seans kit costs much less than a swap would from the sounds of it, I don't know what all these guys with B18's are running in the quarter, but I bet Sean has them beat, for what, half the price almost? And one very good point, low end torque will be much better for racing, and I can name one good point when it comes to Hondas, I see alot of VTEC Civics/Tegs, having to launch at 4k plus, because their engine is literally gutless below the VTEC switchover at 4500-5000 or wherever, therefore, you cause premature wear and tear on your drivetrain, I don't care what tranny you put in, it won't like 5000 rpm launches. And you don't want to be blowing trannys when you had it all custom made to fit.

[IWLSF]

With all this 'big dick slinging' aside, point is, you cant say anything on the reliability of the A20 with boost just yet. And you really have no room to argue with what I'm getting ready to say because...there simply isnt anything to argue with. Put 100,000 miles on the motor, and then come back here and talk about the reliability, but until then, it's just another myth, regardless of every shred of 'proof' brought to the table.

Another thing, how is it you're faster than a turbo LS CRX? You've got a motor that makes 20 more hp stock and 20 more lbs-ft tq stock over a A20. Throw a turbo on both of the motors, then put the LS into a lighter chassis than a 3G, and you're faster? That makes absolutely no sense at all. The bigger badder motor in a lighter car is slower? Hmm, unless they dont get traction or dont know how to drive, there should be no comparison.

[Sean]

Originally posted by IWLSF
With all this 'big dick slinging' aside, point is, you cant say anything on the reliability of the A20 with boost just yet. And you really have no room to argue with what I'm getting ready to say because...there simply isnt anything to argue with. Put 100,000 miles on the motor, and then come back here and talk about the reliability, but until then, it's just another myth, regardless of every shred of 'proof' brought to the table.

most guys that have tried this broke there motors by 8 psi. im running 10 psi now and i plan to run 15 psi by the end of the summer. ive put 15k on this motor with boost and i aint no pusy foot thats for sure.

Originally posted by IWLSF

Another thing, how is it you're faster than a turbo LS CRX? You've got a motor that makes 20 more hp stock and 20 more lbs-ft tq stock over a A20. Throw a turbo on both of the motors, then put the LS into a lighter chassis than a 3G, and you're faster? That makes absolutely no sense at all. The bigger badder motor in a lighter car is slower? Hmm, unless they dont get traction or dont know how to drive, there should be no comparison.

i dont know why its this fast other then the fact that once you strap a turbo on a motor you kill its VE potential in non boost. in fact it takes 3-4 psi just to make 120hp once the turbo is bolted on. its not exactly a free lunch. the other parts is tunning. to much spark no enough fuel etc will make a car run slow.

There are some other factors. Stroke. the a20 has a longer stroke which helps it make alot mroe low end Tq. low end TQ makes the car faster. the ls vtec is a dog until is get into Vtec and even then geuss what ts still a dog. it inly make like 120ft lb. the a20 make like closer to 140ft lb.ive got dyno pulls where at 10psi this car has made over 200ft of Tq at 3000rpm. and with a good set of injectors i might just see the 275+ ive been looking for at 4500rpm.

the ls motor in the teg barely has any Tq on the a20a actually it doesnt have any at all. the b16 is a gutless engine and the turbo kills the vtecs extra airflow. so everything being equal the large stronger a20a will outpower those engines hands down with the same amoutn of boost with identical turbos. now if we start playng with a/r housings and trade spool up and decres exhuast restrction there gonna be a shift in the power curve. but then your killing off the low end power that makes the car such a weapon on the street.

its all about big engines. turbos and displacement are the best things you can do. head flow vtec etc doesnt make a difference once you have the ehxuats restrictions.

[Justin86]

Unless you want to make insane power I would stick with the A20 turbo. Yes having a turbo creates more wear on an engine but that is a side effect have having more power. Still I would go with the Sean's turbo hand down.

[Sean]

thats the thing the turbo adds little to no wear. as stated ive owned a few turbo dodges that were driven hard. all lasted to at least 150k with an inferior engine.revving an engine to 8000rpm is 10x more dammaging then fedding it 20psi of boost at 6000rpm. do some reading on inertial and tensile rod loading. plus theres no ring flutter on a turbo engine when its in boost so that saves tons of wear. if turbos wore out engine then explian tractor trailer engine lasting 1,000,000 miles making 1800ft of tq at 40psi.