Aftermarket , B16 , B18 , B18C5 Manifold + Pics + Install Advice + Dyno

[carotman]

I don't know how he did it but I just cut the EGR pipe , crimped it and welded the end shut.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

looking good, i need to get on the ball

[guaynabo89]

The intake manifold gasket fits just fine on the distributor side. It hits nothing or interferes with anything.

The egr tube I just cut about 2 inches from the header tube and crimped and welded shut like carot did also.

yeah carot as soon as I mount one of those suckers I'll let you know.

[smufguy]

i cant beleive i missed this thread, It looks fuggin awsome man. Props to you. OBD 1 conversion does look pretty clean. Care to take more upclose pics of it please

[guaynabo89]

i cant beleive i missed this thread, It looks fuggin awsome man. Props to you. OBD 1 conversion does look pretty clean. Care to take more upclose pics of it please

Anythign specific?

It better look clean you dont know how annoying ti was to open up the whole engine harness, solder and heatshring all the necessary connections, route the wiring the way I wanted, figure out a way to hold the harness to the engine beacuse of the new manifold, and finally wrap it all back up.

For a while it looked like colored spaghetti on my engine. lol

But yeah let me know what you want close ups on . I even added the eld sensor and epoxied it to the bottom of the fuse box.

[smufguy]

yeah like a close pic of the Dist and how you cleared the thermostat, stuff like that u know, LIke a close up of everything different on the motor

[guaynabo89]

LIke a close up of everything different on the motor

lol That like the whole thing.

Here are a couple of thje dist.







If you need anymore let me know cause I need to charge the batteries of my camera.

[A20A1]

I like the wrapped header

[guaynabo89]

Thank you. It took a couple of hours cause I took it of the engine and made sure everything was nice and tight.

Beleive it or not it made a noticeable difference after I wrapped it. I wouldnt say I gained hp but it was definately noticeable in acceleration and underhood temperature.

[smufguy]

Thats fucking hot. honestly, its fucking hot.

[bobafett]

hey i have a question about how your intake manifold...

on the back of my AEBS b16/b18c5 manifold, there are holes for what I assume to be a fast idle thermovalve, or something of that nature. on the 86 accord it was the cuase of my surging fast idle, and the accord unit does not fit on the b series manifold. im wondering if your manifold has holes for similar hardware, and whether or not u used this thermovalve, or if you just built a block off plate, or if the manifold didnt even have a spot to mount that peice.

also on the bottom of your throttle body is what looks to be another sort of fast idle valve, damn i am so confuzled. heheh

[smufguy]

From what i can see, the TB seems to have the MAP sensor on top, IAC in the back and the fast idle valve on the bottom.

Image number 2 and 4 seem to show it, in post #1.

[thegreatdane]

smufguy is right, IACV (electronically controlled) on the back of the manifold itself and a fast idle thermo valve (coolant controlled) on the bottom of the throttle body.

[guaynabo89]

yup everyone is correct.

The fast idle valve is under the tb. The iacv is behind the intake manifold.

Since my idle valve was also next to the wiper motor I ran those wires through the engine harness to the iacv mouuunted on the back of the intake manifold.

[bobafett]

ok, so you ARE using an IACV, and FITV, both of which are designed for the B-series car.

are either of those items CRITICAL? i don't have either part that would fit on b-series setup, and my huge throttle body doesn't have any holes for the 'FITV', so that one is pretty much out of the question to use...unless i can come up with some other creative solution.

my manifold has a spot for IACV, but i would have to buy one, cuase i certainly don't have b-series IACV's floating around.

on my old setup (all original 86 efi accord stuff), i had unplugged and removed the IACV and the car ran great but i did notice 5mpg drop in mileage.

any opinions if i should just run without either device or if I should shell out the $ for a b16 IACV?

[guaynabo89]

Well I think the fast idle valve is really not needed. I mean it just wont idle up during start up so that no biggie.

Now the iacv doesnt have to be from a b series. It can be from a d or f series they all use the same hole to bolt up to. ( I might be mistake)Ithink the only diff is the way the collant lines come out of it.

Just get any obd1 iacv. get the harness side plug and bolts. You ccan probably even get it for free.

[bobafett]

ok, well that makes me think i can actually find one in junkyard then.

i hope your right. im better off paying $20 for the part at a junkyard than $200 from honda.

assuming the fitv actually seals and lets no extra air in when its fully warm, i will probably just have to keep the idle up manually at first, which is no big deal.

[gfrg88]

i dont have none of those hooked up

[bobafett]

and the car runs fine and gets acceptable mpgs? if so, good; maybe i won't need to bother finding one. hehe... it would save me money and time and make my engine bay less cluttered!

u have b16 manifold or just a20 manifold? i cant remember

[gfrg88]

and the car runs fine and gets acceptable mpgs? if so, good; maybe i won't need to bother finding one. hehe... it would save me money and time and make my engine bay less cluttered!

u have b16 manifold or just a20 manifold? i cant remember

i have a b16 manifold. the mpg is okay about 25-28 mpg, but thats prolly cause of how i drive i still have the iacv, its just working as a little plug though. but its still there just nothing is hooked up to it...

[bobafett]

yeah thats what i was doing with my a20 setup. i just capped the vac lines going to it, and unplugged the iacv electrical connection itself.

so you just make block off plates for the IACV on the b16 manifold then?

[thegreatdane]

if you have an IACV that fits you just leave that on with nothing connected to it. If you dont have one, then yes make something to block it off.

[bobafett]

yeah thats the plan. ill just try to block it off with some gasket maker and i'll cut out a metal plate for it.

after reading up at h-t and hmt, it looks like its a 'critical' peice. but my car ran great without it. although given the problems that i have had with idling the new motor i wonder if it might actually come in handy!

depending on the issues i have with the car running or not, ill see what I can do to add an iacv to the mix...

but first i think im going to try without.

[guaynabo89]

well as for me I might disconnect the cold idle valve since right now its not bringing up the idle. ( havent checked it yet) But the iacv will stay. If it will help the idle stay somewhere where its supposed to be. I mught disconnect the coolant lines to it though. Dont know what effect that might have on the iacv.

[bobafett]

i have not been able to understand WHY the IACV on the back of the b-series manifold has coolant running to it.

obviously it needs coolant temperature as one of the inputs to determine how much air is needed to pass through the valve, but in the 86 accord that signal must be passed through by the computer, because there are only 2 vac lines going to the IACV on an 86 lxi. if thats the case I should be able to keep the coolant lines disconnected and have the IACV still operate perfectly (assuming i find/buy one).

first try is just going to involve a block of plate and some crossed fingers.
i found a picture on a website that showed a vacum line going directly from the air filter side to the manifold - effectivly an 'always on' vac line, and he claimed it helped keep his idle steady.... basically a big vacum leak from what i could tell, but that might be a quick way to test if the IACV's extra air would even help me. since it seems like a on/off sort of device. the 3 wire IACV has a rotary style valve which might have a fine range of control, but i think ours are simply open/closed.