is there any way to remove the vacuum control box and line and fool the computer that there working
is there any way to remove the vacuum control box and line and fool the computer that there working
I do almost all my work own work and what i cant handle i help to do it
I removed my vacume control box but I ended up keeping the controls for the vacume advance and there was one more sensor I kept, I just went through discounected it turned the car on and listened to how it ran, if it ran the same with the sensor taken off, I left it off and vise versa.
"Popup headlights the pinnacle of 80's technology"
Ram air intake bored out throttle body MSD Blaster coil Advanced ignition Ported Head with 3angle valve job and shaved Delta 260 cam Pacesetter header 2.25inch exhaust Mallory Hyfire 6
I would think that if there's any good way to convert to obd-1, a good foundation to have is starting with a b16 or b18 manifold. I doubt you'd lose much or any low-end torque. Remember, these manifolds aren't skunk2's or edelbrocks... they're honda manifolds that are meant to flow a very similar (to scale) amount of air as your own stock a20.
I'd think that the top end gain would be well worth any minor low end tradeoff.
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
How can you expect a manifold from a lesser dispacment motor to flow the needed amount for a larger motor?
If you want a better manifold its got to be yes, bigger for top end but the 'run' has to be long enough. i.e. K20 or bigger H22 flow specs
I still havent done this because i'm not convinced, especially with our R/S
Anyone compared the B20B gasket/im?
The B20B intake manifold is designed for low end torque. It was made to move a small truck so it needs torque. The manifold gasket is the same as any B18A/B.
People run B20/Vtec engines with a B16 or Type-R manifold without problem. All I can say is that if those manifolds can supply enough air for a 7000 rpm Vtec engine, it will be able to supply the air for an A20A.
The low end loss I experienced (before 3k rpm) comes from the fact that the Victor X runners are so huge and short that it's almost the closest thing to an ITB setup. The top end gain was awesome and was worth the trouble. I compensated the low end loss with a DC header.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
if we can fit the b16 intake on our engines we should beable to fit the jackson b16 super chager on to
I do almost all my work own work and what i cant handle i help to do it
That's EXACTLY what I was thinking for the past few months
however, I wonder if the master cyl/brake booster would interfere. I don't think it would but measurements must be taken to make sure nothing interferes. Also, the supercharger pulley must line up with the crank pulley in order to work. I guess that the pulley will have to be changed anyway so if it doesn't line up perfectly, a different offset pulley would just work fine.
The only problem with the S/C is that it costs around $2500... Well, that's a problem for me hehe.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
If i fitted a B16/B18 inlet manifold aftermarket or stock would it be easier to convert to a newer aftermarket ECU as these seem to be more geared up for working with TPS and sensors from these engines??? Just a thought as my stock PGMFI is still having problems idling properly!! And it's driving me nuts!! I can get ti to run properly with minimal hunting on idle at about 1000rpm, but then if i go for a quick blat down the road it then starts stubbling and stalling!!! I have removed the anti stall device as it's broken, and also have modded TB inside to make it more aerodynamic when the butterfly is fully open as well as knife edging the outside of the TB mouth, also have a 3" CAI pipe with a large metal cone filter where the batter is, this goes to a reduction silicon pipe from 76mm to 64mm to the TB. I've also removed the A/C belt and it's bit's that attach to the inlet manifold. I also have a FSE power boost valve and have upped the pressure to 45psi. The Car is really quick right up to red line untill rev limiter kicks in but i just can't get it to idle properly!! i've tried other TB's other TPS's and ATS, although not new ones just spares i had could it be one of these of the WTS?? Just that Honda sensors in U.K are like £100 each new and if i need two or more of these it would be cheaper to upgrade to Aftermarket where the sensors are only like £15-20 each!! (good old Ford parts!!) P.S it's been like this even before i started modding the engine, also i removed the Fast idle valve as that was broken as well idle went mental jumping from 1500-2000 all the time when hot!! No longer does this but having a nice steady idle at 800rpm with all the electrics on would be nice!!! Could it be an injector, or valve clearnace problem would it be worthwhile doing a compression test?? last time i checked about 15k miles ago it was over 200lb with 115Kmiles on clock.
Yes it would make it easier to convert to another ECU as there are less vacuum pipes to worry about.
If you have got a bad injector you will sure soon find out after raising the fuel pressure above stock.
Originally Posted by 2dsei
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?...3&page=2&pp=20
I mentioned this in this link above but it was shot down ( #21 I think), Unless a mod thinks its a good idea I dont think it will work but I would call JSC and see what they say the b16 SC manifold is about 200$ I think separate on there website.
wp
has anyone experimented with a b18 manifold on an a20a? New to the forum. Went to faq didn't see anything. The inlets appear the same shape. Will it bolt-up?
Yes it will
B18C5
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=8069
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- llia
I dont know about the c5 or type R manifold because of vtec. But I just finished putting a ls mani and a p&p head on before nopi and I love it. Of course I'am sprying so my timing is way retarded and I still noticed a difference Without spray and a huge diff with spray. I belive my mani came off a 92 ls teg. If you need anything else just ask. I'll see if my friend can help me get some pics up (I kinda computer illiterate).
86Hatch
what a20a1 said. only the b18c5 (b16a) manifold will more or less be a direct fit. only redrilling of 3-4 holes.
Whew man you need to do some research. B-series vtec and nonvtec motors might have a little diff port configuration. B18C5 is a (Correct me if im wrong) USDM teg type R. And a B16 would be a civic Si or a del sol si Either way all 3 are vtec and not the same as a gsr and might not be the same as B18a or B18b (LS) Witch has the same port configuration and almost the same bolt pattern as the a20. Meaning all but the top stud numbers 2 and 4 line up. Get an ls manifold and gasket but save your old intake gasket to mark the holes in the ls mani. Drill, port match or take this opportunity to port and polish like I did and bolt the ls mani up with the ls gasket and go raise hell! How do I know this? I finished it last week, went to nopi sprayed the hell out of it and laid the hurt down!!!
Last edited by 86hatch; 09-25-2005 at 08:54 PM.
It should fit cause someone adapted the Edelbrock Victor X that fits the B16A & Type-R(B18C5)
- llia
Yeah the B16A abd B18C5 manifolds will fit (they're the same anyway)
If you don't beleive me... check this picture.
Of course, this is a B20A but it shares the exact same port configuration as the A20A engines.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
As long as what your saying is true than a B16 will work with the same mods to the mani (just redrilling the two holes). I didnt try a vtec mani but they deffinatly flow better than an ls and B16 also has a larger throttle body than a ls.
Last edited by 86hatch; 09-25-2005 at 08:56 PM.
For the A20 install, I think justin shaved some of the flange up top cause it hit the valve cover.
- llia
ok ok... so just straight up if i go to a junkyard or through a jegs or some shit i can just buy a B18c5 or B16 and just take my old manifold off and bolt this new one on? which manifold can i get that i wont have to modify? i dont want to drill or anything i just want a simple take this off unplug a few things then put the new one where the old one was? are any of these manifolds that simple? or am i gonna HAVE to tap/drill something no matter what?
2.5" exh. w/burnt Ti. muffler, bosch plat.4 plugs & wires, weapon r intake, halo head lights, 6.5" pioneers & a alpine 12" Type-R, fosegate amp, JDM smokey corners, short shifter & 17s in falken RT-615's (oh and i have a 88 LX-i now i wrecked my 89 DX)
Youre going to have to drill no matter what.
- llia
right now i have cheap access to a B16A2 manifold, will this manifold fit in our accords with little effort thats required? im not completely sure if this is the same intake manifold as the B16A
i think it should fit, you just have to drill two new holes on the bottom right?? not sure if thats the right one though
Originally Posted by gfrg88
thats what i was curious about, they have all these parts like a B16A2 intake manifold, and a D16y2 head and such, i dont even know what the last number means or if it makes a real difference. ive searched it, but didnt come up with much useful information
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