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Thread: WTB: Anyone got a new/newer water pump I can buy off 'em?

  1. #1


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    WTB: Anyone got a new/newer water pump I can buy off 'em?

    I think my water pump is about to take a dirt-knapp so I'm going to replace it now before the snow flies and I have to fight with frozen fingers turning the wrench.
    -Mark D.




  2. #2

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    just get one from an autoparts store. they're not that expensive.
    what signs are leading you to believe your water pump is going out?
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  3. #3

    AZmike's Avatar
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    I've heard that the Honda pumps have a unique seal design that makes them last enough onger that they're worth the extra cost. Mine has 194k so far. The members that went cheap sometimes got as little as 15-30k out of the replacement before it failed too.
    Mike

  4. #4


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    Originally posted by NXRacer
    just get one from an autoparts store. they're not that expensive.
    what signs are leading you to believe your water pump is going out?
    Well, honestly, I'm not exactly sure that it is the water pump that's bad, but there's a nasty noise coming from under the hood and steam from the back-side of the engine. I honestly don't know what has or has not been done to this car/motor as I've only owned it now for about 4k mi. and currently has only 141k on it.

    The car has been a nightmare so far as I've already had to replace:

    ATF coolant lines (both feed and return)
    Power Steering pressure line
    Front calipers/pads/rotors/brake lines
    Master (b/c it had so much shit caked up in it from some genious deciding the strainer was not needed.
    Valve cover gasket

    Now it needs a new head gasket (it's all gunked up, after repeated cleaning of the bay I can see the oil seeps from that gasket.

    Also a new disty (the current one is has it's cap held on by zip-ties b/c one of the cap screws snapped off inside the disty housing while trying to remove the cap.

    There's also a vacuum leak somwhere causing super high idle sometimes, and super low, erattic idle other times. (Carb and fuel lines are also clean.

    It also needs new back brakes (shoes, drums and wheel cyl.) b/c it sat for 2 years (with the e-brake on) and didn't move an inch, so the shoes were seized to the drum. When I bought it and drove it off, the shoes popped free from the drum, warped the drum, cracked the shoe, and I'm almost positive the wheel cyl. is shot due to that same problem as well.

    So anyway, I went way off topic, but how would I know that it's my water pump, or is there a way to test to see if it is the problem?
    -Mark D.


  5. #5
    SEi User 2old_honda's Avatar
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    hey man I have a few ideas about some of your problems.

    head gasket- before you do the head gasket try replacing the valve cover gasket and the cam seals. those two things are very common problems on the a20 and can cause some weird oil deposits.

    about the vac leak- try spraying carb cleaner around the vac lines, base of the carb, etc. If your idle goes up when you spray the carb cleaner on a certain spot, then you have found your leak. If you cant find a leak put a post in the carb tech forum, those guys are really good at diagnosing problems with the stock carb.

    water pump- just get one at a local auto parts store (autozone, advance auto, etc.) They are $20-$30 and most have a lifetime warranty. I know some people say that they suck but they are so damn easy to replace and with the lifetime warranty it dosent really matter if they crap out earlier than a OEM pump. One bit of advice on replacing the pump, remove all the cruse control crap it makes the pump much easier to get to. Dont let anyone try to make it seem like replacing the water pump is really hard because it is very easy! Just remove the CC crap, the upper timing belt cover (just remove the two bolts holding it on and slide it out, you dont have to remove the valve cover to get it off) then remove the pulley, then the bolts holding the pump on, sort of bend back the lower timing belt cover, and then slide the pump out.

    and about the distributor- Drill out the broken screw and then tap in new threads. you shouldnt have to replace the entire thing.

    I hope that I could help

  6. #6

    AZmike's Avatar
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    One of the bearings in the alternator can make noise when it goes bad.
    Mike

  7. #7
    SEi User 2old_honda's Avatar
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    check your coolant level also. check the levels in both the radiator and the overflow bottle.

  8. #8

    HostileJava's Avatar
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    I had a new waterpump put in the hatch about 3k ago. I have know idea how to pull it out but if you want it I can try and figure it out.

  9. #9
    LXi User bambamky's Avatar
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    if you need one Ill sell mine for $5 + shipping its less than a year old

  10. #10


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    ok, well 2old, and AZmike, I'll check out all the things that you mentioned. Also, thanks for taking the time to read the post and let me know what you thought my problems were. I know none of the stuff is real expensive, but it's a lot of the little things. More of a neusance then anything really.

    Anyway, I'll take care of all the stuff you guys mentioned, plus the few other things that have to be done that I didn't mention, and we'll see where we stand from there.

    Hostile, and Bam, I'll def. keep you guys in mind, but I'm going to hold off for right this second in leu of the info that I've gotten on the other problems I have.
    -Mark D.


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