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Thread: some advice please?

  1. #1
    2.0Si User accordlxi2.0's Avatar
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    some advice please?

    i was reading some threads about the throttle controller.
    from what i understood : there should be alot of vacuum @ the TC
    and the lever pulled back.

    okay now i disconnected the vac. hose going to theTC or vac. hose #20 and there was no vacuum. and the rpms did'nt go up either.
    the connector that going from some solenoid has continuity.
    and the connector has 'bout 10-11 volts.
    there was a vacuum source i connected to the TC and the idle cut out.

    now since it's dark and i don't feel like going to my garage,
    but it start's then it'll act like it's wants to shut off.
    then the throttle move and the idle goes up plus flucuates too!
    so now it seem's the ecu tap's into the fast idle cam to substain the idle.

    so these "ecu's" do more than some us people on this board think it does.

    so what the right procedure for this?


    btw, i asked "search" already
    Last edited by accordlxi2.0; 11-04-2003 at 04:03 PM.



  2. #2

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    if you have vacuum at the source my guess would be you have a bad hose maybe and its leaking.
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  3. #3
    2.0Si User accordlxi2.0's Avatar
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    but should there be hissing on the other side of the solenoid then.
    should there be a hi idle or running roughly?
    thanx anyway i'll try that anything else though?
    ****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******

  4. #4

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    vacuum leaks can cause all kinds of funny problems. i'd try replacing that hose and see what happens.
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  5. #5
    2.0Si User accordlxi2.0's Avatar
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    okay . . . .
    now i'm really CONFUSED and PISSED OFF. i did what i read in the other thread : stop screw down, throttle controller to 1900 rpm's then i used the solenoid and connected directly to the battery and the idle went down while still connected i disconnected the vac. hose then idle went up.
    i check the hose and they were fine. i check the volts with idle regular : 10.20volts then with a vacuum leak : 8.67 volts then goes up to 10.00 volt's.
    i even tried another solenoid. ac booster : and connected to the ecu tc connector and it did'nt click the the regular solenoid did.
    i'm suspecting the ecu.
    cause i also used a wire connected ground solenoid. to battery ground itdid'nt do nothing.
    then i connected the pos. solenoid to pos. battery and idle went down.
    what could be wrong?????????????????????????!!!!!!
    ****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******

  6. #6
    2.0Si User accordlxi2.0's Avatar
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    can someone help please???????
    ****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******

  7. #7
    2.0Si User accordlxi2.0's Avatar
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    come on someone help?
    ****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******

  8. #8
    2.0Si User accordlxi2.0's Avatar
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    :pissed:

  9. #9

    k-roy's Avatar
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    I have a stock kehin carb with like 2 vaccum lines. Its great. The Civic air intake is pretty tight as well. I need to run manual brakes so I can remove that from the intake vacuum. that will be great. I also said hey ho ya gotta go to the Air Conditioning, Power Steering, choke and cruise sontrol. I love having as little power robbers as possible. The engine is now very happy and gets better gas mileage than it has ever had.

    So, do what I have done and you should not have any problems like that anymore. I love my basterdized Honda.
    ------------------

  10. #10
    2.0Si User accordlxi2.0's Avatar
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    sorry bro but i have emission's.
    what if i applied full vacuum to it at all time's?
    and i know how i can solve idle fast idle problem.
    ****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******

  11. #11
    if you are talking about the throttle controller on the throttle bracket then do this:

    you can hook up direct manifold vacuum to the controller. Basically hook up an independant line to this controller, assuming you are driving an automatic. Turn on the motor. After it is warmed up kick the throttle once or twice to make sure the fast idle is off. Disconnect (and plug with your finger) the vacuum line and make sure the idle goes up. If not then the controller is bad. If it goes up then hook the line back up
    Turn the idle stop screw (rear of the carb inside a black gear-looking plastic cover) counterclockwise until the idle drops to normal. If it stops dropping too soon go out 3 more turns and then go to your throttle controller. Turn the phillips head screw out until you can get to around 600-700 RPM idle. If it stops dropping you need to let the idle stop screw out more or you have a vacuum leak.
    Once you havce reached your lowest idle and you have verified the controller works, go ahead and set your desired idle speed with the idle stop screw (clockwise to raise)

    Troubleshoot:
    If it diesels (runs when motor is shut off) you can do it the way it is set up oin the 5-speed cars:
    hook up a constant vacuum to the opener with a 1-way valve so that it allows suction but little release

    {throttle controller}------->------{engine vacuum}

    the > is a checkvalve to only allow the air in 1 direction. This should leak in the reverse direction but very little. This allows the motor to not diesel during shutdown yet allows the motor to compensate slightly for loss of vacuum. i had it this way on my automatic for a while, worked fine.
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau

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