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Thread: First Round Of Maintenance...

  1. #1
    DX User
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    First Round Of Maintenance...

    Hey fellas/gals,
    I will be doing some basic maintenance on my wifes 89 Accord LX this weekend. We will start off with replacing the front rotors and pads, flushing & bleeding the brake system, and I will try to change the spark plugs and wires.

    My goals are to get the car to run a little stronger, it seems to take a while to get up to speed, and get the brakes to stop better. i think the previous owner hasn't taken care of the brakes in a while.

    I'll definitely be looking on this site for good maintenance info. I've already found that NGK plugs are the best (just like my SR20), and I have found suggested gaps from .050 to .044, so we'll gap em around those numbers, NGK spark plug wires will be going in, and I may swap out the fuel filter. I still need to get a cheap Haynes or Chilton manual to get me through....

    Holla!!!

    Sam Bass
    Marietta, GA
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R
    1989 Honda Accord LX



  2. #2
    SEi User Dibbs's Avatar
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    If you think NGK's are good, try these. Look for 85-87 prelude. The wires should fit

    Crane Wires
    Quote Originally Posted by kroy
    Mad props to you if you can pull it off, you can change your name to slowassoldschoolswap :thumbdown

  3. #3
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    It's my wifes car, so $20 NGK's are fine, plus, NOPI is right down the road from me - no shipping charges
    Sam Bass
    Marietta, GA
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R
    1989 Honda Accord LX

  4. #4

    k-roy's Avatar
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    There are two fuel filters. One in the engine just before the carb and one near the left rear wheel. Then there is a strainer on the end of the fuel pump. to get to this one you need to pull back the carpet and the pump is under a round cover just behind the rear sear on the drivers side, the one on the passenger side is the fuel level sending unit. Don't forget to change or at least clean the pcv valve with carb cleaner. Oh yea, clean out the carb. If you look through the howto section of this board you can find out how to retune the carb, its not to difficult. Also if you do not have emissions checks I highly reccomend removing the vacuum lines as per the howto section. Vacuum leaks can screw up this car hardcore. As for Oil got a good name brand, I like the Fram X2 filter. Also if you want a full manual goto www.pauldesign.ru . Theese cars can go well over 200 thousand miles with some good parts and mainaince, good luck!
    ------------------

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the info! I may skip the fuel system, until next month - the car has 235,000 miles on it so far, and for an 89 runs great! I'll most likely use that Pennziol High Mileage oil or Castrol GTX. What's a good weight for this car?
    Sam Bass
    Marietta, GA
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R
    1989 Honda Accord LX

  6. #6

    k-roy's Avatar
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    I like Castrol GTX. I hear 10W30 works good. I use 20W50 Full Synthetic witch you should not use. I have an clean engine that was rebuilt 20,000 miles ago. I also drive it hard.
    ------------------

  7. #7
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    Yeah, I hear if you switch to synthetic on a high-mileage car, sheit will start leaking...
    Sam Bass
    Marietta, GA
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R
    1989 Honda Accord LX

  8. #8

    k-roy's Avatar
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    I think thats why my neighbor blew up his Neon. I told him not to use it as he was pouring it in. But what do I know? Im just a gearhead.
    ------------------

  9. #9

    87accordlxi's Avatar
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    Originally posted by 98serwtricks
    Yeah, I hear if you switch to synthetic on a high-mileage car, sheit will start leaking...
    Not always the case. If all your gaskets and seals are tight to begin with, then there won't be leaks when you switch to synthetic. If you do have small leaks, switching to conventional oil will help stop it because conventional is thicker. I've switched between conventional Pennzoil, Castrol GTX, and fully synthetic Pennzoil and my car is 400 miles short of 200,000. No leaks whatsover.
    - Joe

  10. #10
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    Originally posted by 87accordlxi
    Not always the case. If all your gaskets and seals are tight to begin with, then there won't be leaks when you switch to synthetic.
    Good point, but I wouldn't want to try it
    Sam Bass
    Marietta, GA
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R
    1989 Honda Accord LX

  11. #11
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    OK Fellas... replaced the rotors and pads up front and bled the system, the old rotors & pads had ALOT of life left in them and the existing brake fluid was nice and clean. The pedal could use some firming up - I think this is a car that needs steel braided brake lines... I think it could stop a little better than it presently does...
    Sam Bass
    Marietta, GA
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R
    1989 Honda Accord LX

  12. #12
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    what about rear brakes? they play a big part in stoppin too

    Travis
    www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback

  13. #13
    2.0Si User zero.counter's Avatar
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    I would recommend a compression test and have your timing set.
    natsugusa ya
    tsuwamono domo ga
    yume no ato


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