Q's about 5 speed swap

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-12-2004, 05:44 PM

I tried to search but theres a stupid limit that says you need to have at least 2 charachters in a word for it to be valid so I am asking questions that have been answered 100 times previous.

One the park/neutral start, the 2 black wires that have to be connected together are the large black wires witht he white tracer?

When disconnecting the auto tranny cooling line from the radiator do you need to plug the lines or just remove them. It looks as though the lines run into the coolant radiator and share the same housing? Is this true or am I seeing something thats not there?

Ive spent about 3 hours on it so far and Ive got all the linkages swapped out and the auto tranny is ready to come out.

I got 2 full sets of 5 speed swap parts only to rea;ize that I have no manual tranny mount. This blows. Could I use the manual tranny mount from my JDM B20A for a temperary mount till I get the regular mount?

Is the lower crossmember tranny mount the same for both tranys or is that one different also?

Thats about it for know. Ill post more Q's as they come up

Thanks fore the patients as I know these have been asked more than once.

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-12-2004, 09:56 PM

so I did a even more searching still ahvent found an answer.

Which tranny mount is it that is different from the auto? Is it the mount in the front by the radiator core support of the one in the rear by the firewall?

**BITESIZE** · 01-12-2004, 10:08 PM

The mount that bolts to the tranny and bolts to the frame right by the firewall is the the one that is different. Also I'm pretty sure the crossmember one is different, I never changed that one, but it is on my list. If you have any more questions just let me know.......I did this back in August.

**BITESIZE** · 01-12-2004, 10:10 PM

Oh, jump the two fattest wires, i think they are the black one and the black/white one. Ground the green wire (it might have white on it, can't remember) under the shifter console, so your key will come out.

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-12-2004, 10:14 PM

well hell thats 2 mounts i donyt have then. This fetting enev worse. Here I was hoping I was going to do it without a problem and blammo. Up in smoke

**BITESIZE** · 01-12-2004, 10:17 PM

I didn't have the flywheel bolts.......for 3 days!!!! And I didn't have the mount that bolts to the tranny either!!!! I got bolts from a B20A5 prelude engine, and the mount from an 87 prelude!!!!! Worked out awesome.

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-12-2004, 11:06 PM

well It wouldnt be so bad but doue to other things we are now down to 3 drivable rigs and the scout doesnt count as it is more of a tree climber than a driver. The Tbird tabs are expired the civic isnt running and i havent had the chance to find out why just yet. So its the wifeys accord mainly for 2 people with different schedules to use.

Good news is we went in for our second pregnancy exam and got the first ultrasound. I think i am still smiling from ear to ear. i love this. Now I need to 1-find a house to buy. 2-finish both JDM B20a swaps. 3-finish civic rebuild and engine swap. 4-finish scout (ultimate truck buildup). 5-finish stereo system in Tbird as well as motor buildup. 6-complete tasks at friends and families houses.

At least i am done with college for now. I need to go and take my administrators exam now

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-13-2004, 12:32 AM

what did you do witht he tranny oil cooler in the front? Did you plug the linees are what

**BITESIZE** · 01-13-2004, 11:31 AM

I ripped out all of the Automatic Transmission Fluid lines that went to the radiator.....you don't need to plug the bottom of the radiator either....it has it's own seperate chamber on the bottom......as for the cruise control, i said screw it, i tried endless hours to get it to work. I'm going for speed so I ripped the a/c out, powersteering, and next is the cruise control. Oh, yah, i never could figure out how to make my car start only when the clutch is pushed in. So my car starts without the clutch being pushed in.

**A20Accord** · 01-13-2004, 02:03 PM

Originally Posted by BITESIZE

figure out how to make my car start only when the clutch is pushed in. So my car starts without the clutch being pushed in.

What's so bad about that? Did u get the reverse lights to w0rk?

**BITESIZE** · 01-13-2004, 02:50 PM

Haven't messed with the reverse lights yet, that's the easy part of the swap, i was just happy to have my car actually start and drive. Back up lights is my next project when it gets warm outside.

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-13-2004, 09:36 PM

so Ive read its easier to take out the steering column to do the pedals. Did you take it completely out or just drop if from its mounts so it sits on the floor? Also when grounding the pink wire could I just strip it and screw it to the body under the center console or does it need to be grounded at the point of that system?

**BITESIZE** · 01-13-2004, 09:45 PM

Just take out the steering column. It's easier that way. It is a pain in the ass, have someone hold the column up so it doesn't fall on you! Plus you won't be able to take out the whole pedal assembley if you don't.

P.S.

Pull up the carpet and take the plastic cover off the floor and unbolt the steering wheel column from the powersteering rack thing, and when you put the column back on, take the front cover off of the wheel and loosen the bolt, so you can adjust the steering wheel to your wheels.

And with the wire, just ground it to the frame anywhere, you will hear the key lock go "CLICK" That unlocks the keylock.

P.S.S.

BEING 5' 3" TALL AND 110 LBS. HELPS ALOT TOO.

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-13-2004, 09:57 PM

well being 6'1 and 230 probably isnr gpoing to help me any. Where does the wire harness for the steering column unhook from the dash? So the steering column bolts to the floor huh. I was wondering how to get it out of there. Thanks.

**BITESIZE** · 01-13-2004, 10:01 PM

Steering column bolts to the rack and pinion, and there are 4 bolts (can't remember) that bolt into the dash......There's like 8 wire harnesses that connect to the colum, but don't worry they all have different connectors.

Another tip: take out the your seat, and pay some short kid $20 do it for you.

**BITESIZE** · 01-13-2004, 10:06 PM

The funnest part of the 5 speed swap: Rippin out the automatic shit, throwing it away, and knowing that I would never need that shit back, EVER!

Damn, some of this should be put it the how to section.

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-13-2004, 10:26 PM

I have a large stac-o-crap going right now. The old suspension parts and the auto parts. I have 2 sets of 5 speed swap parts so the garage is looking like a hell hole right now.

**BITESIZE** · 01-14-2004, 08:52 AM

Why do you need 2 sets of 5 speed parts, sell them and make some cash!

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-14-2004, 09:51 AM

I wantewd 2 sets so if I found that one part looked better than another I could swap them and have the better of the 2. i also wanted to make sure in case I broke or lost or didnt have a part I wouldnt have to worry about not beiong able to have to go get a replacement. i guess that didnt work very well.

**Morpheus** · 01-14-2004, 04:14 PM

The reason it starts with the clutch out is 3geez dont have that mechanism. They all start without pushing the clutch in. Well at least mine did. So no problems there.

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-14-2004, 09:41 PM

wellI got the interior work done except the reverse lights thing. All the linkages are in and all thats left is the clutch, tranny, mounts and cv axles. I did my strut swap to day again.

**mykwikcoupe** · 01-15-2004, 07:54 PM

just a few more questions and then ill be done.

What does the vacumn line on the top of the manual tranny go to or what does it do?

What is the routing for the clutch cable in the engine compartment?

thats about all thats left to do. Yeh

**RobT5580** · 01-15-2004, 08:32 PM

That vac line is just a breather tube i think but i know for sure it dont connect to anything.

I have to do mine soon when i convert to the B20A but my car is going to be all ripped apart any way so it shouldnt be so bad. Im hoping everything goes together well and i dont have any problems but i dont really foresee any. As for the starting w/o the pedal depressed their is a switch that has to be connected and it should not start w/o the pedal down as someone else said it should. Only if my other coupe was in better shape i wouldnt have to bother doing the 5spd swap part of it but its not much more work than im already doing to the car.

Good luck with the rest! And for the reverse lights i was told it was to do with the wiring in the old shifter but i was talking to Steve (88Lxi68) today and he said he tried a lot of stuff and still couldnt get his to work. But i asked Josias during the summer cause his worked and i swear he said it was two wires in the console area that had to be connected.

**BITESIZE** · 01-15-2004, 10:31 PM

That tube is just a breather. I don't even worry about the clutch starting thing.........Better things to worry about IMO.

**joker2** · 01-16-2004, 06:58 AM

OK, I just wired the reverse lights and here is how you do it...... When you took the auto shifter out you should have seen the large bunch of wires that are connected to one connector, well cut the solid yellow and the green with black stripe wire from that group.... The yellow and green wire that comes from your tranny will have to be extended with additional wire so they may reach all the way to the shifter..... I went through the firewall, under the carpet and came out right where the other wires come out.... Connect the yellow wire from the tranny to the yellow wire that you just cut away from the group and do the same with the green wire from the tranny and connect it to the green/black stripe wire..... Now make sure that the two pairs don't touch because if you do, everytime you turn the key to the "ON" position the lights will just turn on..... Once you have it all connected turn the key to the "ON" position and put it in reverse, the lights will come on.... Take it out of reverse, the lights go off..... Have fun....