high peformance weak links

[NXRacer]

This is mainly for Sean and the other high performance A20 guys.

So i'm seriously thinking about building up a motor for turbo etc, but im trying to work out the kinks and make sure i have everything as solid as possible. one thing i was thinking about is the oil pump. Is that a possible weak link? I blew mine in my motor last year and its basically stock except for exhaust and intake. I used to drive it like a bad out of hell, but it didnt have a ton of power by any means.

Is this a known weak link for built motors or did i just have a bad pump?

[NXRacer]

oops wrong section.

anybody know???

[Justin86]

probably just bad luck. I have never heard of engine blowing oil pumps before. The stock water pump can cause problems at high revs though.

[k-roy]

There are external electric water and oil pumps available. A oil cooler and oil reserve with a breather is a good idea. Imagine running 10 Quarts of cooled oil.

I think the main weakness in the A20 is the cast rods and pistons though.

Also the valvetrain is not strong enough to take a 9,000 rpm beating repeatadly. It sucks that we can not get an aftermarket crank that would change the stroke. About all you can do is have it harmonicly balanced. I think an external harmonic balancer would do good as well.

[smufguy]

Im with kroy here, I think the rods are one of the weakness of any engine and not to mention an engine thats 14 years old. Oil pump is not really a pump like the power steering pump or water pump as we can imagine, its a weird lil squishy thing that squishes and pushes out oil as we all understand by the pictures. Its funny u blew it cuz i never heard anyone do it either. We gotta see how far we can push our block too, its cast iron, wich is strong and if im not mistaken, its brittle too. Unlike the supras with their steel blocks.

So im not really sure about it. GOtta ask Carotman (i dont know where he is) and he might have some info on it.

[Sean]

actually the rods are forged steel from the factory. not bad for factory peices just a bit heavy for revving. cutting wieght on a revving engine i really crucial. anyway the biggest weak spots ive seen so far to date.

pistons. doesnt take much knock to break the ring lands ( problem with all hondas really)

clutch ( working with specs to try a new setup thats should hold some serious power ) sending a flywheel stock clutch etc.

traction. all FWD cars battle this issues b im gonna try some air bladders in the back to see if at the trck it helps signifacntly. if i can pevent the wieght tranfser it should stay hooked on decent tires.

[k-roy]

Sean,
Can you do some explaining on the theory and application of air bladders? Thats new to me

[Sean]

beats running insanely stiff springs or mechaincally locking the suspension. the air bladders just act like aditional springs. and with enough air pressure and a suspension travel limitng device like a tow strap or cain itll literally make the reas suspeion fixed. then when your done at the track you just deflate the bags and go home.

[k-roy]

So are they like airbags for the front of trucks? Do they replace the stock struts entirely?

[Sean]

no they just be and ad on. no replaceing the struts. once you air them down there not even like there there.

[k-roy]

Thats cool.
It sounds like a good street/strip setup. Got any links?

[k-roy]

The lack of an aftermarket flywheel sucks too. You can have a stock one polished, lightened and balanced though.

[Sean]

ehh im working on the flywheel/ clutch situation.

[Justin86]

For high reving an oil catch can would be a nice add on.
For SEAN how much smaller is the B16 flywheel and preasure plate then the accord. I was thinking that you might be able to put the B16 preasure plate on the 1.8L carb lude flywheels.