Hi, The dog bone engine mount is loose on my friends 89 se-i. Does he have to change the bushing or it can be tighten down? Whats the best way to fix it? Thanks!
Hi, The dog bone engine mount is loose on my friends 89 se-i. Does he have to change the bushing or it can be tighten down? Whats the best way to fix it? Thanks!
No tightening will do... the rubber bushing needs to be replaced.
BTW some looseness is natural... so only replace it if you find the bushing is missing some of the rubber.
- llia
It's very loose i can rock it 1 inchs from side to side. This there Polyurathan bushings for that or OEM? And would you happen to know how much are the OEM bushings?
If it's only side to side play then try and tighten the bolt and maybe add some washers.. but if the back to front movement is bad then replace it.
I dunno what OEM ones cost... I have relied on a few spares from donor cars since I eat thru them quickly, but right now I have the brace welded on the trans side.
- llia
I can feel the engine rocks forward and back when i push the throttle. So i'm guessing it's gone! Can you please post a pic how you welded it on your frame?
the bushing very cheap from majestic website
Alex.
The dealer will charge you like $20 for the bushing...... Is the car an auto or man. because it makes a difference when you change it....... What I mean by that is that the manual bushing has more meat to it compared to the auto bushing because the auto tranny does less moving than a manual tranny....
May I ask what and where is the dog bone engine mount?
I happen to be able to answer this on as I just replaced my "dog bone" bushings last night! I thought that the "clunking" when I put the car in reverse was caused by these bushing being bad. I ended up having the local NAPA order them for me. They were slightly higher than Majestic Honda, but with the shipping charges it would have been about the same. The cost me about $35 for both.
They were pretty easy to replace. After doing that I loosened all the motor mount bolts, ran the engine, and then tightened in the sequence illustrated in the shop manual. It has reduced engine vibration a little (I replaced the front and rear lower mounts several years ago), but the clunking is not gone (I have new axle shafts, too)
There will be some side to side play in the front end of the dog bone. The end at the firewall does not have the play. My original bushings were actually not in very bad shape at all. The front lower engine mount is fluid filled and does allow some movement of the engine in the bay. That is normal.
You know how it is with old cars. Sometimes you "waste" money on replacing parts you don't need to replace to find out which is really the bad parts. Overall, you still save money compared to taking it to the shop.
hey guys...thanks alot..
ya it is my car he's talkin about.. and it's a stick
R.I.P Spoon Se-i 01/17/04
Think we can get a closer look at your car...... Same color as mine....But yeah, if you dicide to replace it with one from the junk yard make sure you get it from a manual and not auto......
At the top of the engine. Behind the distributor. It is a bar that goes from the firewall to the engine. Let me see if I can find a pic.Originally posted by hkplayer
May I ask what and where is the dog bone engine mount?
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Bam!
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Yup..thats the bad boy were talkin about
ya i'll get my buddy to post up new pics of my car for you guys
R.I.P Spoon Se-i 01/17/04
You guys rule.
lol that thing sucks, The first time I did a Motor swap in my LX we were working that thing from the side that is tack welded on, so stupid LOL. We had like a 3 foot cheater bar on that thing cranking it before we realized wtf we were doing.
Well after reading this yesterday I went to NAPA and well I asked them how much they wanted for a top engine mount that was for the "dog bone type thing" and well the book they had didn't have and pics and the computer didn't have crap either. The guy thought it was call a strut rod bushing for the front. And it was weird b/c there weren't any for MT, he said that they just have AT now. I was like I will find out what the ACTUAL name of these bushings are so I can get the right parts. So do you guys know what these 2 bushings are actually called?
So was I supposed to change this bushing when I did the 5 speed swap?
probably yes because the engine needs a stonger mount for a 5-spd compaired to an quto, due to the torque difference in an quto to stick.
R.I.P Spoon Se-i 01/17/04
Yasu? What do you think?
They are called "Torque rod bushings."
You might be able to get by without changing to the manual bushing but I doubt that the auto bushing will last that long..... Trust me, go to the junkyard and compare bushings between the auto and the manual and you will see that the manual has a lot more rubber to it...... And as far as the second bushing that's attached to the firewall, I wouldn't worry about changing that one out, regardless of auto or manual, because that one tends to never really go bad.........
Well thanks for the help guys. I was checking on Alldata at school and got a large picture of all the engine mounts highlights and I found that it's called the "Torque Rod" and NAPA was calling it a "strut rod" So I'm assuming its the same thing. If NAPA doesn't have the Manual one then I will go elsewhere.
Thanks again,
Mike
Hey guys I got the Strut Rod bushing set from Napa (they called it that.) I was just wondering if you guys had the same part # as I did from NAPA 274-8710
B/c the things I got just doesn't seem right but I will take a closer look. Please help me out!!!
-Mike
I took a closer look and these can't be the right parts. I got 4 rubber bushings and 4 huge metal washers. And I don't remember telling them it was a MT so maybe these are for the strut towers or something. Any ideas guys?
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