this is just a question...the other day i got to thinkin...
what performance parts would you need to build a good race type suspension and how much would that cost
so does any one know...cuzz i dont know anything about suspension work
thank you
this is just a question...the other day i got to thinkin...
what performance parts would you need to build a good race type suspension and how much would that cost
so does any one know...cuzz i dont know anything about suspension work
thank you
.
well here is what i would do if i had money and i wanted race suspension:
polyurethane bushings. ( i think you can use 2gen prelude busings.)
Koni struts or Bilstein revalved.
Nice springs. something that struts would handle.
camber kits (front and back)
and nice tires.
Alex.
I would go with Suspension Techniques sway bars and opmautosports.com radius rod bushings. Also I would go with SS brake lines and SEi discs with good rotors/pads.
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thanks y'all
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strut bars and tie bars are always a good idea too and dont forget big wheels and tires and a nice spoiler.
1983 toyota celica gt
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=3283231985 toyota celica 3sgte project1989 toyota supra turbo1986 honda accord 4dr lx-i
if money isn't a big deal and you want top of the line..... custom tublar supension, polyurethane bushings, camber kits, bigger sway bars F&R, strut bars F&R, light wheels and stickey tires, 92-00 Civic springs/struts (Tein), AEM big brake kit.
est price around $5K but it will be the best.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
welll money is a big ass deal..lol
specially now
.
be too but maybe later down the road I might have the money to do something like that.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Becareful of using theopm radius rod bushings on the street. The ride will be much firmer but the life of the bushing is like 5000 miles. No I didn't miss a zero I was ordering them from OPM and the guy told me about the short life span. A urathane radius rod buhing would be ideal. Just my 2 cents
DARKSIDE
WEBER POWER!
thanks for the info![]()
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
With a relatively small budget, I would recomend Tokito struts, firm springs (especially rear), and some sticky tires. And then if you have some extra money, maybe some polyeuithane bushings.
1991 CRX Si
1993 Accord EX
They don't make Illumina's for this generation of accord. Blue's and the word stiff don't go together.
H&R springs revalved Bilstein front struts, koni struts in the rear 195/55-15 Dunlop W-10's Dc Sports header custom cat-back with Dynomax super turbo w/3" Brembo slotted & dimpled rotor's EBC pads
Well, that's what I used to have, wrecked, 7/3/02.
Now I d
Okay Guys, I am very interested in the SS Brake lines for my 89 LXi, and most important the urethane bushing where do we get these from I'v been looking everywhere. I need to utilize the "NETWORK" here.
Thanks and Happy New Year to all.
NSWST8
I would check www.opmautosports.com for the SS Brake Lines. Someone else will have to hook you up with the urethane answer.
Mike Clark
Pretty much the best struts we can get is revalved blistens and they are not cheap.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
there is some work to be done. Jim knows the most but pretty much I belive you need to get them shortened which can be done at the factory.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
You can also get them at www.techna-fit.com. Call 'em up, and you can get their SS lines for about 110 shipped. They have blue, clear, red, and black casings on the lines, you pick whatever color you want. I've got them, they fit right in, and work like a charm.Originally Posted by Site
od2681 --> To answer your question, as many others said... ...it all depends on how deep your pockets are.
For me (I'm building this as we speak) I would go with Koni's (revalved all 4, front 2 shortened), I'll be using the B&G coil-overs (we'll have to see how well they hold up to a full-race environment). Custom bent sway bars front & rear (thicker then S/T). Rear strut tower bar. Custom made front crossmember w/ ball-in-socket joints on custom made radius arms. Prelude front control arms. Ingalls camber kit in back. CNC'd aluminum to replace shock bushings in tower, CNC'd aluminum w/urethane sleeve to replace front lower arm bushings and subframe bushings. SE-i rear brake conversion, 88-89 LX-i front brake conversion, SS lines, Brembo c/d rotors (all 4) w/Axis pads.
I mentioned brakes b/c that's just as important as the "suspension" setup when looking into race applications.
No front strut tower bar so-as to reduce "push" from the rear during heavy cornering. (Not yet tested, but in multiple conversations with Protege Road-Course SCCA drivers they like it better without the front strut bar. Hope it works.)
Oh... all in all, this should run the average person about 3-4K. Less, depending on who you know.
Last edited by markmdz89hatch; 01-19-2004 at 11:48 AM.
-Mark D.
dont forget a good driver!! lol
-Brian
-"lifes a bitch,i swear to god, you take your chances, too many questions and not enuogh answers!"-nappy roots
My Accord
LOLOriginally Posted by lightbulblxi
Race Prep...
Brembo Crossdrilled Rotors : $300
4 Revalved and Shortened Koni struts : $800
Custom Chassis work : $1200
...being a good enough driver to benefit by all of this : PRICELESS.
-Mark D.
that should be a sweet set up.![]()
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
^^
haha good one
.
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