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Thread: IAC test ??

  1. #1
    LX User
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    Unhappy IAC test ??

    Any body know if there is an 'at home test' for the idle air control valve?
    Car was running real wierd, idling erratic, racing the engine...stuttering shuddering...just real shitty...unplugged the IAC and it smoothed out enuf to get me home...with surging at steady throttle...also, will a bad IAC cause higher RPM power loss (above 4500-5000 RPM)?..sometimes feels like a plugged fuel filter, but that is new....also a fuel pump Q:...do they either die or run ?..I'm suspecting a 'weak' fuel pump, but have heard they either work or leave you stranded...thanks for any input !!
    (also have an 89 LXI auto I'm parting out, but not playin the shipping game)
    Regards
    Cliff
    My other Honda has 2 more cylinders, and 2 less wheels.



  2. #2

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    you can't remove the idle valve and test it. it has to be installed. i don't know how to test the valve on 88-89 accord. i have 86 accord and the idle valve is diff. you may want to pick up chilton manual and it should tell you how to test it.
    about weard idle, yes it will do that sometimes. my engine is running weard too. so i know what you mean.
    Alex.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Shep...got a Haynes manual here, but it aint no good fer anything but backup for hot wing strains on the toilet paper supply..will try to find some Chilton info today
    My other Honda has 2 more cylinders, and 2 less wheels.

  4. #4
    Don't know if the '88s and '89s are the same, so this may be inacurate. The manual refers to it as an electronic air control valve, do you get any codes (14?) on the ecu? The resistance between the two terminals of the eacv should be 8-15 ohms, if not replace. Check for continuity beween each terminal and body ground, if continuity exists, replace. With the ignition on, should be 12 volts at the connecter to the eacv, too. The eacv should also "click" when connected and disconnected with the ignition on.
    Steve

  5. #5
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    if the accords do actually have IAC's, you can usually hear them making weird grinding noises.. i just replaced on on a Tempo at werk.. it was doin that weird noise when you turn teh car on and off... replaced it and she idled VERY nice

    Travis
    www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback

  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    if you want to know if the eacv valve works, unplug it, your rpms should drop a few hundred rpm. Do this when the car is warmed up.

  7. #7
    Awaiting Activation Morbid Intentionz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88LXi/87CRXSi
    The eacv should also "click" when connected and disconnected with the ignition on.
    So if it dont click? Then what is bad the valve or the circuit?

  8. #8
    If you have12 volts at the connecter, and the valve doesn't click, then I would say something is wrong with the eacv. If you don't have 12 volts at the connecter with the key on, it could be wiring, the ecu, or maybe some fuse, I guess.
    Steve

  9. #9
    Awaiting Activation Morbid Intentionz's Avatar
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    Well i dont have anything to test how many volts so i just tested to see if there was any voltage at all an there is, so i turned the ignition on and it didnt click so i got two bad ones( i bought one from a junkyard )?
    Last edited by Morbid Intentionz; 12-28-2003 at 01:39 PM.

  10. #10
    2.0Si User accordlxi2.0's Avatar
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    check the ecu for code's.
    i think the iac is a variable motor, since it open's up to 1900rpm's and closes all the way. if teh iac was bad (motor wise) the engine would rev continuosly at 1900rpm's.
    but u said that it feel's like it loses power 4500-5000rpm's.
    when my pump was out the car surged bad for 3 day's.
    on the 3rd day the car did'nt start so i knew it was the fuel pump.
    Last edited by accordlxi2.0; 01-04-2004 at 09:54 PM.

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