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Thread: Ring/Engine Removal

  1. #1
    damnthesenames
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    Ring/Engine Removal

    I bought my 89 with a broken timing belt and 0-30-0-90 compression. So I figured I'd a bent valve, however, I took the head to a machine shop and they vaccum tested it with excellent results. Now I'm moving onto the rings. I think I heard somewhere I can easly remove the pistons without pulling the block. Is there a write up on this anywhere? I would go spend some time outside but it is too damned cold to go out without knowing exactly what I need to do


    Thanks

    _ Justin



  2. #2
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    Clean up the head and bolt it back on...those compression numbers are what happens when a belt fails...valves aint gonna close when the camshaft isnt turning, resulting in low-0 compression....if the engine smoked alot, and used alot of oil BEFORE the belt failed, then you prolly need more than just rings (re-bore, new pistons etc)..if the plugs didnt look to bad when you tore it down, just replace the belt, and your happy ass will be riding around in a warm car...good luck !!!
    My other Honda has 2 more cylinders, and 2 less wheels.

  3. #3

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    the only way to remove the pistons from the from without removing the block is by unbolting the oil pan. it wouldn't hurt to pull the piston and replace the rings and bearings.
    Alex.

  4. #4

    Justin86's Avatar
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    yea you got to remove them form the bottom. The hardest part is the damn oil pan casue of everything you have to remove. First how many miles do you have on this beast. New pistons and rings will only cost around $100 might be a little more for the 89 cause of the higher compression.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  5. #5
    damnthesenames
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    I thought I had mentioned, I pulled the rocker arm rod out, which allowed the valves to close, sealing the combustion chamber. The engine has ~250K miles on it, so I think I'm going to go with new rings, rod/main bearings and stuff... I can get a topline re-ring kit with everything I need for 177... Is there a write up on the easiest way to pull the engine? I took a look... it seems really simple with the head already off

  6. #6

    Justin86's Avatar
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    unless you are having the engine bored out you don't have to remove it. With the head off you just need to remove the oil pan inorder to take out the rods and pistons.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  7. #7
    SEi User adams86lxi's Avatar
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    well if you want to remove the whole engine (which i wouldnt) here is the how-to! https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=7316
    http://www.myspace.com/3364524

    b20accord SN on honda-tech,homemadeturbo,clubcivic,turbod16, and many more

  8. #8

    Justin86's Avatar
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    trust me it is a waste of time, it would take a simplie one day project into weekend mess, by pulling the engine.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  9. #9
    damnthesenames
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    Thanks! As soon as I remove the foot of snow on top of, and around the car I'll get started

  10. #10

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    talk to 'its paid for' about rebuilding a motor w/out pulling it out of the car. Its not easy at all. I would highly suggest NOT trying to do that if its gonna be outside. You'll be really miserable if you have to work on it in the snow and cold.
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  11. #11

    Justin86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by damnthesenames
    Thanks! As soon as I remove the foot of snow on top of, and around the car I'll get started
    ha I got the same problem but when I got mine free, my little drive ended when my exhaust fell off.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  12. #12
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    save yourself the ache and pains of pulling everything from underneath the car, just pull the engine.
    87 prelude si
    87 non-turbo supra

  13. #13

    Justin86's Avatar
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    have you guys every pulled the engine before. It is not easy and would take much longer then just pulling the oil pan cause inorder to change all that crap you have to remove the pan! I have put in new pistons and pulled a engine before and I know what I'm talking about.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  14. #14
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    I have put in new rings and I have pulled an engine before. In fact I've pulled honda engines lots of times. So I know what I am talking about. If pulling the engine is beyond your skills then you should not be changing rings.


    -David
    Last edited by 4sillypwr; 01-04-2004 at 12:35 PM.
    87 prelude si
    87 non-turbo supra

  15. #15
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    Pulling engine or a hillibillie rebuild is a judgement call. If the engines totaly cashed exchange engine. If it still ran decent but smoked or had a burnt or bent valve then a hillbillie rebuild works for me. I just recently did a 2.2 1990 accord hillbillie stlye cause it had a burnt valve. It comes down to economics too. Sometimes you can find honda engines priced decent.

  16. #16
    damnthesenames
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    My Skills are not in question. I rebuilt the engine in my Toyota Supra with no problems. My hesitation to pull it is simply the resources I have at my disposal currently. If What Justin says is true, which I belive is, pulling the pistons out and re-ringing it should be a piece of cake. The high tomarrow is forcast at 2 degrees, so I probally won't get to it for a while


    Thanks everyone

    _ JUstin

  17. #17
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    0 compresion means lots of bad things have hapened. id be checking to make sure the head actually was seat proerly on the block.
    Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site

    WWW.ACCORDCENTRAL.COM

  18. #18
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    you still have to pop the head to get the pistons out. I guess it's just a judgment call. In my opinion if you have the head off already and it's cold out take the extra few minutes and just pick the engine up and bring it inside and work on it. I can barely work on my car when its 40 deg outside.

    -David
    87 prelude si
    87 non-turbo supra

  19. #19

    Justin86's Avatar
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    well he all ready has the head off so all that is left is the oil pan which is about an 1hr job if you don't know what you are doing. It took me 4hrs taking my time to put all new pistons and rings in and I all ready had the head on. So by your self just plan on taking the day to do it and it does help to have an extra hand.
    I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.

  20. #20
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    C'mon now...think of it this way...if you pulled the rocker shaft and ran a compression check, you still will have skewed numbers...valves that are closed (all of them at this point) will not let any air in to the cylinder to compress in the first place...the only way to get proper compression figures it to have the valve train working properly...now if you want to get technical, round up a LEAK DOWN tester, and test cylinder leakage at TDC of each piston, BDC of each piston, and right in the middle of the piston stroke, THEN compare the numbers...3 Readings from each cylinder will give you an idea of ring seal, cylinder taper, and cylinder choke (or barrelling)..also the cold weather will produce lower numbers...Leak down the cylinders dry..then wet (shoot some oil into the spark plug hole for the wet test..then compare numbers...

    I would still bolt the head on and drive for the rest of the winter, and then decide whether or not to rebuild in the spring..frost bitten toes and fingers, frozen wrenches and sockets lost in the snow...bin dere dondat....many years ago..

    just my $.02
    My other Honda has 2 more cylinders, and 2 less wheels.

  21. #21
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    speaking of frostbitten fingers and toes....my civic engine blew up ahead of schedule. Winter swap here I come....yay

    -David
    87 prelude si
    87 non-turbo supra

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