ok im getting an 89 lxi engine and tranny from a friend as soon as he pulls it. This is the plan... Run diamond forged pistons possibly .030 overbore, possibly new bearings (rod bearings prolly, mains last a long time), shotpeened stock rods (stock honda rods are nice n' strong, at least a and b series) and maybe balancing the bottom end. Thats it... Any other ideas i should think of? Also getting a new oil pump/water pump and timing belt and gaskets. Oh yea this is gonna be the turbo motor
Might as well get forged rods since you will being tearing into that and some head work
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Balance that bottom end!!! It's cheap and you'll thank yourself a hundred times over.
My collection: Stay tuned! (04/02/2009)
Originally Posted by bobafett
What exactly is balancing, and how much is cheap?
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
balancing is one thing im considering. Forged rods are great, but the stock rods should be up to the task of just about anything i throw at em power wise, as long as I dont overrev it. I dont plan on going over 7k because if i did id have to upgrade valvetrain parts to keep it out of valve float for sure, and this engine will have more than enough power so revving the piss out of it is not nessesceary
Well contact me about it. i get fantastic deals on machine work and diamond piston is 45 minutes from my house. so if they screw up the order or something its no big deal.
Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site
WWW.ACCORDCENTRAL.COM
The first considerations of balancing your Performance or Racing Engine is that of Horsepower and Longevity. Any automotive or marine engine spins at enough RPM (revolutions per minute) to cause damage to bearings, moving parts and cylinder walls if the engine's reciprocating assembly is not balanced correctly.
Just about everyone has had a car or bicycle with a wheel out of balance. The resulting feeling is often vibration, shimmies, and lack of complete control. Imagine this feeling, now partially hidden within the confines of your engine. In many instances (extreme out of balance) you will see or feel the engine vibrations. But most cases of engine unbalance go unnoticed. These unseen or unfelt errors in the engine's assembly is quickly causing it's demise
Balancing your engine helps:
Save on Fuel
Reduces Friction (heat)
Increase Longevity
Increase Horsepower
More Consistency
Smoother Operation
Lower Chance of Fluid Leaks
Lessens Component Failure
want more info on Engine Balancing. check this >>> http://www.centuryperformance.com/balancing.asp
i want to increase longevity by balancing
Ohhh crap...is this why my car is so 'shaky' and vibrates too much at idle...or maybe it's because i have fuel management problems..not to metion a loose firewall brace to the intake manifold and i need a upper transmission rubber-grommet thing...wait a second, did i just answer my own question...
-Harvey
Isn't this worth the 150 or so dollars? :cool2:
My collection: Stay tuned! (04/02/2009)
In order to balance the engine it has to be disassembled right??? Wouldn't that cost a little bit more than $150???
-Harvey
Basically you have to give the shop the crank, rods, pistons, and all the goodies that connect them together. If you can disassemble the engine yourself, then you're saving cash. Either that or score a boneyard crank if you're going with aftermarket rods and pistons.
My collection: Stay tuned! (04/02/2009)
Thanks Sabz for clearing that up for me. I guess $150 isn't bad then...
-Harvey
you can also have the shop disassemble it for you, rebuild ur engine and balance the parts and reassemble it for you to the specs for around $500-$800 depending on work. BUt who knows, prices always change.
this stuff aint cheap, but im getting the new (well, used engine and tranny) dropped off at my house probably on monday. Ive heard it run and it was pretty cheap ($150, engine/trans) so i hope i can use it as a core, I bet it will be pretty obvious on the dissassembly if the bottom end is completely trashed or not. Hopefully all i will need done is new pistons/rods (bored out .020 or .030), oil pump, bearings, gaskets etc, and balancing. This should be one hell of an indestructable engine, even when ran on stock rods, but i might splurge on eagle H beams... Just for the peace of mind folks. Engine internals arent a good thing to skimp on. Now as soon as i set that stuff up i have to think about head work... I was thinking of running a low milage stock heard, but i was thinkin, ive seen alot of turbo cars lately running 272 cams, so im thinkin moderate turbo grind cam with b16a intake mani and mild porting... your input?
My input is this. If it all works out IT WILL BE ONE MOFO FAST CAR. and one bulletproof monster engine.
it is all worth it on a engine build up. I know you want to try to save money on stuff nut when it comes to the engine and drive train you don't want to skimp out on anything, only the best stuff.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
ok i got it tonight, so far it looks very clean and well taken care of. I remember this is the engine that my friend had that when he did his oil pan (new pan) he had little metal flakes in the pan, im thinkin that because he had let it sit a few months that the oil turned slightly acidic and started to eat away at the bearings. I dont know yet, i havent had it apart. I have heard it run, and it ran very smooth, no knocking etc. I dont care if the bearings are good, i just hope they didnt eat away at the crank... We will see
so far this engine is very clean from the inside and the cylinders are in good condition and have the slightest of slight wear ridge, so thats hopeful. Im gonna pull the mains and probably rod caps and check the bearing clearances next, but i might have to move it inside its way way too cold out.. my readings will be affected, its about -5 here now, very cold.
Man don't you just love that weather. Once I get the shop cleaned up I will start tearing apart my extra engine and start looking to build it up.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
I dissagree with the balancing and boring. The stock crank is balanced pretty well from the factory. You can see the bore holes in the counter weights where it was balanced before. For 6000 RPM IMO balancing the A20 is not necessary. If you engine vibrates at idle there is something wrong with it other than a crank out of balance. Possible un-even compression or crappy combustion!
If you are installing aftermarket rods / pistons....I would suggest balancing!
Boring the engine wont get you very much of a HP gain. At least not in the A20. Maybe just run a little more boost and save the money you would have spent on boring for something elce.
Of course if the cyls are out of round you will need to bore!
im not boring because of the hp gain, im boring to start with a fresh cylinder. Worn stock cyls + aftermarket pistons+ boost = oil consumption lost power etc...
I always thought ..
Bore = To make Bigger
Hone = to straigthen worn or dameged cylinders.
Thats my project engine soo far and my aasco flywheel... i might get a pic of my big ass clutch when it comes... peace out :cool2:
thats a darn good looking motor for a 14 year old block. Lucky you.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks