need help fast fast fast

[Johnny b.]

i just changed my plugs..i replaced them with the correct ngk plugs and when i started my car it runs fine for all of 10-15 seconds and then the idle jumps to 1900rpm and then falls to 1100rpm and continues to do this constant but i can give it just a little bit of gas to bring the rpms up to 2000 and it lines out ...it accelerates fine and decellerates fine but idles like i told you up down up down constantly..starts up fine also just so you know it started after i changed the plugs and i thought i might have damaged a plug wire removing them so i replaced them also and it is still doing it ...and it ran and idled perfect before please help ..this is my driver..my car is a 89 accord fuel injected 5speed LXI

[pimp86LX]

you've changed nothing else but your plugs?

[zero.counter]

Did you replace one at a time and also did you make sure not to cross the wires?
Additionally, did you gap correctly and ensure that each plug us torqued to spec?

[EvilPenciler]

try turning on the car and leting it sit for a bit ... dont touch a thing after a few minutes pop the acellerator and teh idle shoudl drop and stay constant. Worked in my friends shitiler

[pimp86LX]

hmm if nothing else has been changed i bet the gap is wrong.

[Elijah]

Or mabey the egr valve.Just a bad timing thing it happened when he changed the plugs.

[k-roy]

I am going to say it is either improperly gapped plugs or a corssed wire if thats the only thing touched.

[ACCORD EX]

i am with that too ! crossed or wrong gapped !

Mike !

[shepherd79]

it is not the gap. the spark plugs have nothing to do with it.
your fast idle valve may needs adjustment. my car did that when i bought it.
remove the top of the fast idle valve and use wide screw driver and screw the nut in a few turns or untill it stops jumping.
this will hold you till you get a new valve from a dealer.

[Dibbs]

it is not the gap. the spark plugs have nothing to do with it.
your fast idle valve may needs adjustment. my car did that when i bought it.
remove the top of the fast idle valve and use wide screw driver and screw the nut in a few turns or untill it stops jumping.
this will hold you till you get a new valve from a dealer.

I agree. Another trick you can try is to screw the cap (nut) off, take the spring out and stretch it back out a bit then put it all back and adjust it accordingly. Like Alex said though, this is only a stop-gap measure until you get a new valve from the dealer. I think they run around the $60-$75 range and you can't get them at autozone.

[lightbulblxi]

my friend had a 94 eclipse and his kept jumpin like that and he kept dickin aroundwit the f.i.v. and blew up his engine. dont know if it was cuz of that or not but be careful

[Bloodlust]

I agree. Another trick you can try is to screw the cap (nut) off, take the spring out and stretch it back out a bit then put it all back and adjust it accordingly. Like Alex said though, this is only a stop-gap measure until you get a new valve from the dealer. I think they run around the $60-$75 range and you can't get them at autozone.

I third that.

[NXRacer]

another reason why your idle will jump around like that is an O2 sensor may be going out. Your ECU may be throwing codes telling you whats wrong........

[3rdgenlxi]

my car did the same thing and it was none of the above.... it was a loose plug wire. Try checking the wires and then re-setting the ECU.

[zero.counter]

it is not the gap. the spark plugs have nothing to do with it.
your fast idle valve may needs adjustment. my car did that when i bought it.
remove the top of the fast idle valve and use wide screw driver and screw the nut in a few turns or untill it stops jumping.
this will hold you till you get a new valve from a dealer.

Are you saying that it does not have anything to do with or that there is no possible way that it has anything to do with the spark plugs? Because it can...

As far as proper gapping, a smaller than spec gap means that the spark duration will be very quick and the spark will be thin and weak. Problems would be bad starting and high exhaust emission levels. Obviously you would notice the car drinking more gas than usual. Now if you have set too large of a gap, the ignition system will not be able to cope with the demands and a misfire situation will occur.

But The reason I suggested this off the top was because he stated that it happened immediately after changing the said plugs. It was an obvious shot at a prime suspect. But then again this is the internet, and we don't see what he may have physically.

As far as other possibilites as you suggested that may be culprit, I could list others tambien. If we are going to be detailed and avoid the obvious, I would start with the electrical subsystem.

The wireset could be damaged, loose, worn, or have a deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). Spark Plugs could be fouled, damaged or broken. The distributor cap may be loose or cracked.

Now besides the electrical portion of possibilities, there is/are Carburetor Choke probs, Choke Pulloff, Choke Thermostat, Barometric Pressure Sensor, Carburetor/Fuel Injection GSK, Idle Air Control Valve, Idle Speed Control Actuator, Timing Set, Fuel Pump, EGR Valve, Camshaft, and the T.P.S...if it applies.

If further description is required, anyone let me know and I will explain.

[Johnny b.]

man guys im sorry that i didnt get back to you sooner but a couple of buds of mine came by with a cold case and we went up in the forest muddin and ridein around ..anyway last night when i got through posting i went outside to check the gap and wires..gap is set at 42-43 and the wires are brand new and tight..well i started it up and it persisted to run like shit and then as soon as it started it quit and just purred ..today it started and idled fine untill i got to an intersection and the started doing it again...then the next time i stopped at a light it idled around 1300rpm and then it ran perfect when i took one of my drunk buddies to his house but on the way home i gave it hell going around a semi and the damn throttle stuck so i goosed it and it cleared up and ran right..just so you know i didnt take it muddin we were in a truck...but when i got home it idled fine and started up fine ..w.t.f. help me if you can and how do i reset the ecu??

[my86dx4dr]

sounds like a vacuum problem, could you off accedently pulled some lines?

[my86dx4dr]

sounds like a vacuum problem, could you off accedently pulled some lines?

[zero.counter]

^Actually, it sounds like a double posting issue to me...

[nswst8]

Hope this helps, but a few years ago almost five I took a run to Newport, RI from Jacksonville, Fl and I noticed the same idle problem. But I also noticed that if I pulled back on the accelerater it would come down. I tried adjusting the throttle cable but this didn't work it would still fast idle after warming up not all the time, just random. I tried pulling the the rubber dust protector on the throttle cable at the throttle bottle that didn't work either.
Just this past few weeks I put on a new throttle cable, Guess what no more fast idle, runs great.
Two things that I noticed while changing the throttle cable, 1st there was a crack at the firewall where the cable feeds through, not sure if there is where it was binding up, 2nd after I disconnected the cable at the throttle body and the pedal the part of the throttle body side, at the engine when I pulled the cable it was exposed, showing crud up underneth the protective sheathing.
I believe that if I would of cleaned this crud off that might have stpped the cable from sticking. But I already had another cable so I put that in and problem gone.
You don't have to completely remove the cable to clean it I noticed, just disconnect it from the throttle body first then the pedal leave connected at the firewall pull cable back and forth to clean cable. Takes less than ten minutes.
Thanks for listening. LOL
NSWST8

[A20A1]

Could be a short... make sure the wire boot for you coil is on properly... and all the coil wires are on properly. I think there is some arching going on. Or it might be in the Dizzy, wires from the ignitor...

or maybe the idle was raised at one point cause of the old plugs giving poor idle... you put new plugs in and now the idle problem was solved but you now have a higher idle adjustment added onto it... which then starts changing the amount of vacuum... if it lowers the vacuum the secondaries might open and that might cause the idle to fluxuate... I'm not an EFI guru though so I dunno.

[Johnny b.]

thanx guys ill give everything a look ..but a bud of mine wants to trade a s-10 4x4 blazer and 200.00 bucks for it and he knows about what its doing and im seriosly contimplatting a trade..but i know the s10 blazer isnt famous for milage..pluss im sure within a week it would have abodylift and 30-31inch tires and no fuel milage at all..any suggestions???

[accordlxi2.0]

LISTEN . . . KEEP THE HONDA . . . .i've own a chevy b4 and it gave me problem's not as much ford did but . . . . it seem's 2 time's a year i would replace the alternator.

[Johnny b.]

yeah im actually a chevy man at heart but i decided not to trade mainly cause the s10 has got a gutless 2.8v6 and not the 4.3 i was hopeing for ..and the honda seems to have fixed itself i geuss ..its been running just fine ..thanx for all your responses i appreciate all of you JB

[pimp86LX]

man i've driven a chevy with that 4.3....its got lots and lots of torque but its still kinda gutless. give it 2 more cylinders and that'd be sweet.