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Thread: Squeaky Brakes!

  1. #1
    3Geez Veteran HondaBoy's Avatar
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    Question Squeaky Brakes!

    ok, i know they shouldnt sqeak. duh! but they have done that before. i think they must have a problem with sticking after the brake peddle is released. i would think that means i should put some new brake fluid in, or along with that, new calipers. they realy arent too much. the calipers are about $27 each with core exchange. the kit is like $3 each, i guess thats new brake lines? anyway, i replaced the pads almost exactly a year ago, about a year and a few weeks. anyway, i know they shouldnt wear out that fast. i have the receipt for them, so i think i will take em back and use the warrenty. so, does anyone have the problem of brake pads sticking and squeaking? any suggestions? if i do get new calipers, i guess i will get the performance rotors that i had planned to get. so, tell me something you might know.
    Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
    *Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
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  2. #2
    LXi User soljaboy2000's Avatar
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    My brakes use to sqeak and when I check them they needed a replacing. So I got new ones, but after a couple days later they continued to sqeak again so I got some brake stop sqeak and srpayed on the back of pads and now it doesn't sqeak anymore.

    My 1989 LX Carb. A.K.A. "Hoop Ride" (R.I.P.)

  3. #3
    2.0Si User lightbulblxi's Avatar
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    wd-40 get rid of most squeaks...lol
    -Brian
    -"lifes a bitch,i swear to god, you take your chances, too many questions and not enuogh answers!"-nappy roots

    My Accord

  4. #4


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    Anti-brake squeal lube

    Well, I have an 89 LXi :cool2: and the brakes do not squeal. The trick is to use brake grease, lube, anti-squeal on all metal contacts not just the back of the pads themselves. The spring clips in the front calipers must be cleaned and lubed, the bracket to caliper metal contacts must be cleaned and lubed. The bolts holding the calipers to the rotor bracket must be cleaned and lubed.
    Do not use a multipurpose grease or lube, use specific high temp brake lube/grease.

    Do not use compressed air to clean brakes, just use a mild soap solution in a drain bucket to catch the dirty solution.

    Please use some type of rubber glove to protect yourself from yourself.
    To many times I see moroons chewing their nails after doing auto work or worse smoking after or during auto repair.

    Good clean surface with a light film coating (Thin) of brake lube works great everytime.

    And don't buy the brake cleaner to clean your brakes until after you wash the brake dust with the soapy solution first then use the brake cleaner to remove oilly grime from your braking surface.

    Hope this helps, LOL
    NSWST8
    Last edited by nswst8; 01-17-2004 at 08:29 PM.

  5. #5
    3Geez Veteran HondaBoy's Avatar
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    well, i took a look at the brake pads yesterday. they didnt look too worn down, so i may try cleaning them as you said might work.
    Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
    *Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
    B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
    Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap

  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran HondaBoy's Avatar
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    hey, do y'all think maybe it could be sqeaking due to low brake fluid level? it was lower than it should be. i read in my repair manual that it could be low when the brakes wear down. anyone know about that?
    Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
    *Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
    B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
    Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap

  7. #7

    Blkblurr's Avatar
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    Having clean and lubeb brakes is great but has nothing to do with squeaking brakes. The stop squeak spray and cream forms a soft vibration dampening film that absorbs the vibrations caused when your pads rub the dics. this happens as long as your pads are in contact with the discs. Having them in good shape by cleaning them and lubing the proper parts keeps them in good working order and helps the calipers to retract at their normal speed so that if they are squeaking they will stop squeaking quicker after you release the brake pedal. It doesm't matter though if they don't squeak.

  8. #8
    3Geez Veteran HondaBoy's Avatar
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    i dont know if the pads were glazed or whatever, but they have pretty much stopped squeaking. like i said, they didnt look too worn down considering they are a year old. anyway, if they were glazed, it must have been caused when i was washing the car. i had been driving it around and then sprayed the wheels. thats when it started doing it. i think if i have some time i will maybe put new brake fluid in the system. i've had a look at what the prices of new calipers and rotors will be. if i have any more bad problems, i will consider putting new brake components in. i dont have the money to do all that right now. anyone got some suggestions on what brands to go with for brake rotors? i wanted cross drilled or slotted if im going to replace them. ive found neuspeed and power stop or power slot, dont remember. those are easy finds, im sure there are more i dont know about.
    Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
    *Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
    B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
    Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap

  9. #9
    DX User SrvZro's Avatar
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    I wouldn't waste money on slotted rotors. 200 bucks for the crossed drilled or 40 bucks for your ordinary rotors. Your money might be better spent on other things for you car... like expensive pads. the rotors wear down anyways and have to be replaced or grinded. My car would shake when i would brake hard at high speeds. I slapped on OEM rotors (originals to thin to grind) and Raybestos PG Plus pads. They are well worth the money and come with lifetime warranty. So before they hit the sensor (starts squilling like a crappy belt) take em back. You could go full ceramic pads and then you would hardly get any noticeable brake dust on your rims.

    But if you want cross-drilled go for a big brake conversion. I've seen those some where on this site and they looked really nice. Thats just my opinion.

  10. #10
    3Geez Veteran HondaBoy's Avatar
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    i suppose i could get original type rotors, but considering i wanted just a bit of performance, i want drilled ones. im going to get my friend to order them because he gets a pretty good discount at napa where he works. and i thought it was only about $120 for the ones i found.
    Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
    *Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
    B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
    Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap

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