Yeah.....coming from McD's after i parked my 3gee and shut it off it, it did'nt. It was sputtering for like a minute without the key in!!!!! WTF wrong with it??
Yeah.....coming from McD's after i parked my 3gee and shut it off it, it did'nt. It was sputtering for like a minute without the key in!!!!! WTF wrong with it??
My 1989 LX Carb. A.K.A. "Hoop Ride" (R.I.P.)
I think that's what they call dieseling. I don't know how to fix it though...I'm an EFI guy. Play with your carb![]()
I think its a sign your car was wanting to get the hell away from Mickey Ds.
Thats called dieseling. The carbon built up in the cylinder is glowing hot and causing it to still burn fuel. That and a combination of a carb that is going bad, I see from your previous posts that you are going to replace it so that should solve the problem. I reccomend using fuel system cleaner, high octane gas, do an oil change and let it rev. The best way to burn off extra carbon is to drive it with some nice healthy revs, but I don't know your engines condition so I would not reccomend revving to 6K nearly every gear like I do. I have a rebuilt motor that is very strong and clean.
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you can do a few things.
1. you can run some expensive curb cleaners. it may help with carbon.
2. you can retard your timing a little and see if that fixes the problem.
3. you can rebuild the cylinder head.
Alex.
what are your rpms like.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
rpm's are btween 2000-2500 all tthe time when in nuetral
My 1989 LX Carb. A.K.A. "Hoop Ride" (R.I.P.)
I had a similar problem a several months ago... a small bit of plastic was holding my butterfly valve (or whatever it's called) open on my carburator, as soon as it was removed the problem went away. I'm no mechanic, but it must have been that the carb was continually pulling in air and burning off some unused gas (but then again, i could be wrong). I'd check it anyway.
The first time mine did that it ran for a full 45 seconds constant. I was told to leave it in D4 (if you have an auto) when turning the ignition off. It pretty much shortens the duration of dieseling in the engine.
Good Luck, soljaboy2000
Emcees drag their feet across a big naked land/
With an empty bag of seed and a fake shake of hands/
Yeah I got some last words, f**k all of y'all/
Stop writin' raps and go play volleyball/
-Slug
yeah...my valve thingy is always open too.....but i dont thnk anything's stuck. The spring just worn and wont close it all the way
My 1989 LX Carb. A.K.A. "Hoop Ride" (R.I.P.)
If you get the thermo valve fixed that controls your fast idle kickdown, your high idle and dieseling problems will go away. I have responded to this on other threads but i'm not sure if youv\'ve read them.
yep: also check your choke unloader diaphragm. It will get a pinhole leak, and won't retract the choke lever anymore.
Stock 5 Speed...
385,000 miles so far. Many more to go...
u sure it wasnt ht ecooling fans goin on?
-Brian
-"lifes a bitch,i swear to god, you take your chances, too many questions and not enuogh answers!"-nappy roots
My Accord
Yea thats the problem, you revs are so high and the engine will continue to turn over causing the diseling. So your main prob is why it idles so high. So solve the idle prob and add some carb clearing stuff and you should be fine.Originally Posted by soljaboy2000
Last edited by Justin86; 01-20-2004 at 12:06 PM.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Yeah I agree the thermovalve is probably bleeding off vacuum thru # 17
So if you're losing vacuum the throttle cotroller will press on the throttle constantly.
I'm not sure on the choke not pulling open all the way... I was going to open the lid and check the choke position... but I figured I'd wait.
Call me when you can... you can plug it yourself if you want or you can come over, I have a few feet of vacuum lines and some vacuum caps you can use.
- llia
Well we looked it over and found the throttle stop screw was a bit too tight and that the linkage/shaft was getting caught up on something. Or the return spring is too weak.
I blocked off # 17 to elliminate possible leaks and also pulled off the vacuum advance lines and they were working as they should. So I kept jiggling the throttle to get rid of the gap between the throttle stop and the linkage and finally it moved and the idle lowered... I removed the AS valve hose cause that started up the instant the throttle dropped.
soljaboy2000, If we meet up tomorrow I can bring the muffler... I forgot you're name dude.. sorry I'm not good with names. I'll be working on a new vacuum diagram tonight if you want to do the vacuum removal.
I'll see about adding a return spring to your linkage tomorrow... I believe its impossible with some of the emissions stuff in the way... but anyways I'll give it a try.
Okay I'm done with the diagram... here is the link: https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=11067
Last edited by A20A1; 01-20-2004 at 11:36 PM.
- llia
I just wanna thank a20a1 (micheal) for taking the time to fix my hoop ride todayNow she runs a lot smoother and no more high idle. Thanks Man!!!!!
...............oh my name Julius :cool2:
My 1989 LX Carb. A.K.A. "Hoop Ride" (R.I.P.)
Hehe, no problem.![]()
- llia
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