shaking

[3rdgeneration]

when ever i come to a stop the engine and the steering wheel shakes alot. i was wondering what the problem is, is the idle set to high or what . i need some help thanks.

['A20A3']

It can be a variety of things ranging from motor mounts to the engine requiring a tuneup to valves and sensors and so on.

Somebody with more in-depth technical knowledge will stumble upon this soon enough and can hopefully help out better than me.

[k-roy]

Its not the idle set to high, it would still be smooteh. What is you idle at anyway?

It could be loose or worn out motor or tranny mounts. Check the "Dogbone" mount too. It extends from the firewall to the top of the engine. It is to the left of the throttlebody. That could be a likely culprit.

It could also be running rough. Get a can of carb cleaner (yes I know it is Fi) and use it to clean the inside of the throttle body. Be sure to move the throttle by hand so the butterfly opens when you do it.

The list goes on and on. Check all this: fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, pcv valve, air filter. Also use a timing light and make sure it is set correctly.

Thats the basics, it could be more severs like a bad fuel pump, coil, ignitor, distributor, fuel injectors.

Can you describe your problem in a little more detail? If so we can help narrow it down for you. Does the engine run fine? Or has it lost power and "stumble" like the rpms are not even at idle.

[Blkblurr]

I have the same prblem with my 89 SEi and my engine is in very good shape due to regular maintenance. I believe it to be the engine and tranny mounts as was suggested to me when I asked before. Mine are dry and have cracks in them.

[rdn]

when ever i come to a stop the engine and the steering wheel shakes alot. i was wondering what the problem is, is the idle set to high or what . i need some help thanks.

it isn't only when you step on the brake, isn't it?

[3rdgeneration]

no, because if the brake is on and i put it in nutral the shaking almost stops

[bscanlan]

Ancient post I know, but the last two posts describe my "in drive" shaking at idle as well. Any thoughts???

[DBMaster]

Almost assuredly, it's the two lower mounts. I found that about 100,000 miles was a good life span for them. Maybe you can check the D/S upper mount (through the timing belt cover) as well because it has a tendency to break, but the shaking is the front fluid filled mount and the rear engine (transmission) mount. They should be replaced together. The "dog bone" bushings are not really an issue. In fact, when the contents of my glove box would start rattling at traffic lights I knew it was time to replace the motor mounts.

[bscanlan]

Thanks, Is that a "pull the motor" or "prop and replace" proposition?

[2oodoor]

You can use a cut piece of 2x6 board on a floor jack to support the motor while you change out. You may want to review the procedure so you get it aligned well.
The dog bone kind of transfers the shaking to the firewall once it is supporting too much of the load, so that directly shakes the dash area.

[bscanlan]

Thanks. I will look into it for a fall project.

[DBMaster]

I replaced the torque strut rod bushings (AKA "dog bone bushings") at one point. The originals were not in bad shape at all. If you have over 90,000 miles on the two lower mounts, replace them, plain and simple. I guarantee you that it will improve the issue. I was always disappointed in how much vibration the car experienced from the engine, even with new mounts. I guess that's why they added balance shafts in 1990.

[bscanlan]

So I went out to my car, found the torque rod and can shake it a good quarter inch of play at the engine side. The rubber does not look horrible and I do not know if they have been replaced previously, and the car had 200,663 miles on it. The question is, should that torque rod be movable by hand, is it meant to be tight but movable when needed, or should it be rigid?

[DBMaster]

Even with brand new rubber the torque strut can easily be moved side to side. That does not indicate an issue.

[2oodoor]

If it were tight it would make the car shake!

[bscanlan]

Since my post re: the dogbone, I have put the car on jack stands for the winter, and the build begins. When I am disassembling, should I just inspect the bushings as I go? The car has 200K+ miles and I do not know what has been replaced, but I don't want to replace a good part. Let the games begin!

[Dr_Snooz]

You should only change parts that need it. A visual inspection of your rubber should be sufficient. Replace anything cracked or oozing.