Installing SEi Rear Disc Brakes

[Busted_Blue]

Alright fellas, I just started on this project and I've ran into a little tiny problem. EBRAKES! How exactly do i get off the passenger side bracket behind the heat shield? Also..is there an easy way of reinserting the new ebrake cables into the car since my heat shield for my exhaust seems to be in the way of everything.

any ideas? help!

[Moodybluesr]

The way I did it was to remove all the bolts for the heat shield and let it sit in there loose (it won't be able to come all the way out). That way I was able to move it out of the way as I messed around with the cables but I didn't have to remove the rear exhaust section.

[Busted_Blue]

thanks moody...i got it out as for the bracket that holds the ebrake right before the opening to the interior, did you unbolt that too? or did you just pull it off?

[Moodybluesr]

I just pulled the cables out of their openings after I disconnected them from the handle and removed the interior bracket.

[Immeraufdemhund]

i was looking into an 88 lude, and i noticed that the whole rear assembly is very similar. I read that you can switch out something, but i was wondering about the whole shindig.. then you'd for sure have rear disks.... can that be confirmed?

[Justin86]

I have seen that the legend's are allmost exact, and it seemed like the lude was a little different. look at it real close and the dimensions

[Busted_Blue]

well i managed to get one side one. Time for the next side. For a 1st timer doing it by myself i'm learning a few new things about it. Thanks for all the help.

[Busted_Blue]

finally done with it all..and I must say after test drive..feels the same -_-. Maybe I havent taken it hard yet so I'll see whatsup.

[Moodybluesr]

You won't really notice any difference in day to day driving. The only place I notice any difference is at the autocross where I use the brakes about 10x harder than normal.

[Vanilla Sky]

i'm gonna agree with moody here... you won't notice a real big difference just street driving... i woul dhave to say when you take the car out and use the brakes hard, like autocrossing or what-not, you'll see a good difference

also, you may need to rebleed your brakes... if you're not noticing a real difference, then that might be a cause, too

[Busted_Blue]

just as I thought. I do notice my pedal travel distance is shorter to lockup the brakes (clue to it being better i suppose) . It DOES feel more responsive when you push it a tad harder, definitely with the stainless steel lines. I will get an alignment first then take it out to highway 84 and see if it makes a difference in cornering speed.

I might have to rebleed the brakes. I have a question on order of bleeding. The book says driver front then passenger rear then passenger front then driver rear in bleeding sequence. I always thought it was zigzag from the farthest (passenger rear) to the next farthest and so forth. Anyways, I did it according to the service manual.

pictures someday

[nswst8]

You have it right the first way. New braking regulations give you partial braking if systems fails. Driver front Rear passenger Front passenger Rear driver.

[Busted_Blue]

thanks for the insight. at least i know i did it the right way. I hope i don't have to bleed again. I used one of those bleeder tools my uncle had..it has a vacum pipe to a reservoir or something. Should've been ok. Although I have a question. When I roll down the street in neutral I hear like a noise coming from the rear disc brakes. It sounds like the pads rubbing on the rotors in one spot. The sound is almost like a whirling sound that comes in after one cycle. The noise is similar to a sharping knife (a soft sharpen on a rock not a hardcore spark sharpening)

any ideas what it is? My guess is the caliper is still actually pressing the pads on the rotor which is making noise.

thanks!

[Immeraufdemhund]

one way i was taught at work to bleed brakes was by turning the vehicle on then opening up rear passanger and watch the fluid. When it stops bubbling close it. Next go to drivers rear.... passanger front.... drivers front. (i was always told bleed furthest away from Master cylinder first and move all the way to the front. Dont know if that is 100% it's just what my gpa said and he was a master mechanic for a bazillion years so i trust him. it seems to work well with the engine running trick. of course it's super duper easy when the car is on a lift, but running around the car and jumping underneath isn't too bad either (unless your car is slammed)

[shepherd79]

did you change the proportion valve?
plus what year is your accord?

[Justin86]

finally done with it all..and I must say after test drive..feels the same -_-. Maybe I havent taken it hard yet so I'll see whatsup.

with the stock brakes still you won't see a big difference, but do a big brake kit and you will see a huge difference.

[Busted_Blue]

lol, justin, I have 15inch rims..I doubt a big brake will fit on that.. I notice the difference already on the mountain road i usually drive on. Definitely less fade and stronger brake when going downhill so I'm happy with the mod. I think I should change the proportion valve someday..lol