Oil Pan Gasket - Izzit Really That Big A Deal 2 Replace?

[it's paid for]

Mine's leaking and . . . in the fantasy world I live in, I was going to replace it this summer when I do the rings . . . the leak aint that bad . . . here a drip . . . there a drip . . . but . . . I've been told (by my friend who used to work in a Honda shop) I should just leave it alone & ignore the little drips . . .

My thoughts:

• gasket is cheap
• gasket should be easy to replace
• this should stop a known, minor leak making my life more complete

So, izzit really a big deal to replace it, or what?

[danronian]

The problem is getting the bolts off of the exhaust w/o snapping them. If you can get the exhaust off easily, I see no problem with changing it. I wouldnt do it for a few drips though. Until the pan is wet, I wouldnt bother with it. I changed all of the seals on my old 75 malibu and now less then a year afterwards, it has a few drips. I would try a bottle of the leak stopper oil additive that swells up rubber gaskets first.

[nswst8]

We have to disconnect the "A" pipe from our header, and then it becomes accessable. I would expect yours to be similar.
Hope this helps, LOL
Phil

[ChaseR]

I just did mine when I pulled the engine. Seemed like to much work to do it while it was in.

[Sherlock87LXI]

with my oil pan leaking at the plug... is it easy to replace or do you have to like drop the engine like 6 inc?
Or do I wait to do the tranny auto to manual swap?
just asking.

[Mac]

If it is leaking from the drain plug, the next time you do an oil change just replace the plug and washer. Very cheap and easy. After all the oil is drained wipe down the plug area real good.

If you want a manual tranny why wait.

It's paid for: Suggest that you spray the A pipe bolts with PB Blaster a few times before attempting to loosening them. Also I believe you might have to remove the crossmember to get the oil pan off. The pan itself can be hard to get off after everything is loose. I never did one but I remember reading other post here how some guys had to pry the pan off. Be careful not to mess up the pan if you need to pry it.

[it's paid for]

I think my 2G is a bit different - my exhaust manifold is directly below the intake manifold - on the "rear" end of the engine . . . I can't remember any nasty plumbing down there but . . . I think there is a front to back I-beam like thing that probably needs to be removed first . . . I'll be under it Saturday morning & I'll check it out when I'm down there.

I hate it when you look at the oil pan & see different 10mm fasteners holding it on . . . why didn't they just use the original ones all around? I know it didn't come from the factory like that . . . oh well, I'm not loosing sleep over this . . .

Happy Honda-ing,

IPF

[Gregg86DX]

When I dropped my pan, it was stuck on like a motherf****er. I had to pry on it with a crow bar and ended up tweaking the pan rail a little. Nothing a bit of "Hondabond" could not fix. Other than the sticking part, it's not too difficult.

Gregg

[BootMachine]

ON the prelude you have to pull the 1/2 shafts out to remove the oil pan!

[AZmike]

ON the prelude you have to pull the 1/2 shafts out to remove the oil pan!

Why? The second generation prelude drivetrain is nearly identical to the setup on the third generation accord.

[JohnnyFonz]

DO NOT use leak stopper.
Sure, it swells the seals. Until you top using it.
Then the seals contract more, and your leak worsens.
So, Leave it as is, or replace it. Leak Stopper is for stupid people anyway.

[Busted_Blue]

i have a similar problem..the oil doesnt seem to be leak quite fast..it seems like one in awhile the bottom of the pan has some oil on it...not enough to drip but just sits at the bottom. I left it as it is. It is a lot of work to replace it. I probably will replace it when i replace my clutch in the summer.