what year of acura engine is the best to put into a 89 honda accord coupe?
If anyone has some advice or knows this information please let me know.
what year of acura engine is the best to put into a 89 honda accord coupe?
If anyone has some advice or knows this information please let me know.
B18C5 integra type R engine. Don't know years.
Acura Doesnt Make engines
Acura = Honda. just look for B18CRG1 http://www.totaljdm.com/index.cfm/fu...dm_engines.htm
if i had money i would go with this engine http://www.totaljdm.com/index.cfm/fu...dm_engines.htm
it is cheaper and it has a hole lot aftermarket support. plus for the price you pay for B18crg1 you can get B16 with vortech supercharger. and it will blow B18crg1 motor out of water.
Alex.
B16 + Vortec = Happy
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what one will bolt right in to my car with out changing anything...
A20Ax series are a direct bolt-in! 2 whole liters of displacement, multivalve aluminum head with overhead cam, rock solid iron block, optional fuel injection and parts are easy to find! It's really a no-brainer, as a matter of fact, this swap is so common in 3g's that it may have already been done to your car!Originally Posted by coupeboy2003
Good luck,
Gregg
droping any B series motor in 3g is a lot of work and money.
Alex.
Yeah and there are turbo kits that make corvettes have inferiority complex's :cool2:
Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site
WWW.ACCORDCENTRAL.COM
What Year Of Acura Motor Will Fit So That I Know....
no acura motor will fit except for the vigor. which is a rebadged 3rd gen accord. with some dress up items. also there is not bolt in engines. and quiet honestly the b h k and f motors have inferior blocks
Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site
WWW.ACCORDCENTRAL.COM
Okay, buddy, when I see 10000 RPM from an A20, then I'll agree with you. The most I've seen is 8300(my guess, since I passed the "8") and that was my 1st 3G DX, needless to say, I don't have it anymore....I wonder why...going to 7000+ all day?
All the other series of motor would take that RPM range easily, even the D.
Trust me, Ive had 2 3G's, a 2000 Si, and 89 CRX DX. That covers A, B, and D.
And no matter what you do, you will always have that nagging feeling of something thats "missing", Like I feel when I drive the 3G, compared to my Si, it's missing a cam, and a valve per cylinder, no matter what I do to it, I'm gonna think "I'd have extracted more power if I had that extra valve to flow exhaust...
Remember, the better the engine is stock, the better base you have to build from, and the better results you will get. Therefore B > A. Just to get an A20 to B-power, and revs, it's gonna be a "new" engine. Just like the Protoge in the SCCA. A non turbo A20 with, say 200 HP, is probably going to already have massive fuel upgrades, expansive valvetrain work, redone internals, and pretty much be as high strung as an F1 engine.
Then again, I'm a guy who knowingly gave in to a very bad financing deal to get a 2000 Civic Si, just for the B-series that was in it. I care about revs...maybe too much.
SO YOU ARE SAYING TO KEEP A A20 ENGINE IN MY CAR. the acura engine is not to bad but you would reither have a a20 in the 3g .... so keep the a 20 or put the integra engine in it.. i was thinking to put a 89 ls integra engine in it.. so send me back a pm what you think... thank coupebpoy 2003
the money you will waist on B series motor should be enought to build strong A20 with turbo.
diegoaccord, for your information high revs are not as efficient as low revs. i don't see why would you want rev to 10K every day, that is just plain stupid. you damage the engine faster.
Alex.
i am thinking about putting a turbo on my a 20 engine
well my friend .. sean should be your best friend.
- J u n i o r -
If that's the case, I'd stay with the A20 if I were you. Good luck. And hopefully this will be the last time that THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS AN ACURA ENGINE!!
i am going to stay with the a 20 and i think i am going to build it up with a msd coil and that or go with a aurora one of the two. and i did not do drugs buddy
Were you looking for HP out there ? the stock a20a engine is an economy engine. Its 3000% overbuilt for this task. With proper rod bolts and oiling upgrades it would have laughed at 8300rpm. as for 10,000rpm out of a20a sure it can be done just like with any other engine out there including POS :cool2: v8 american engines. But there isnt one engine honda makes with a rev range of 10,000rpm aside from motorcycles.
No there isnt one engine that honda builds that wil last reliable aside from the k24 in the s2000. and even it wont survive 10,000 rpm blasts for long
here is an illusion based on PR and sales tools. 2 cams have more friction then one. Also there is more mass. this make the valvetrian heavier. BTW so does vtec. The extra exhuast valve isnt needed. In reality you only need the engine to have an intake to exhuast flow that is 75% of the intake. and thats overkill in almost every engine except for f1 cars.
Actually there a few 200+ hpo a20a daily drivers around. then again i prefer a nice big fat TQ curve. something most other honda engine struggle with. As for big exspensive upgrades. Nah just the usuall stuff. P&P good cam grind, and some compression is about all you need to make 200hp under 7000rpm.
As for a better starting point. Well unless you start with a dart b series block. your gonna have to spend like $2200 on a darton mid sleeve kit.and thats to get 80% of the stability already built into the a20a block from the factory Then more money on a crank etc. the a20a's stock internals aside from pistons are proven to make in excess of 300hp withouth flinching. But really its good insurance ot upgrade parts like rods,valves and pistons.
Sorry to hear that. Im sure my wifes n/a 4dr could whips its tail around the block with just bolt ons and retunning. Oh yeah you do care about revs way to much.
TQ x RPM / 5250 = hp
see ya later
Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site
WWW.ACCORDCENTRAL.COM
that is cool and intresting
if u want a integ motor. the faster models are 94 and 95. so pull out a motor out of them cars. thats if a gsr. the fastest ls is the old skool 92 cuz the fact of top end. the pull like crazy. i know cuz i've got alot of friends with them cars here
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Were you looking for HP out there ? the stock a20a engine is an economy engine. Its 3000% overbuilt for this task. With proper rod bolts and oiling upgrades it would have laughed at 8300rpm. as for 10,000rpm out of a20a sure it can be done just like with any other engine out there including POS v8 american engines. But there isnt one engine honda makes with a rev range of 10,000rpm aside from motorcycles.
I wasn't looking for power, I was looking for noise, and lot's of it, which I got, and with out piping, it was like driving a slow ass motorcycle, cool shit. Of course nothing does 10,000 stock, but a B series can do it with smaller upgrades than an A20A.
No there isnt one engine that honda builds that wil last reliable aside from the k24 in the s2000. and even it wont survive 10,000 rpm blasts for long
S2000 has F20C, and yes it will. Spoon cams, mapping of fuel points, and it's 10,000 RPM, and that's only a 1000 RPM stretch. The new 2.2 2004 S2000 with the lowered redline probably can't handle it, though.
here is an illusion based on PR and sales tools. 2 cams have more friction then one. Also there is more mass. this make the valvetrian heavier. BTW so does vtec. The extra exhuast valve isnt needed. In reality you only need the engine to have an intake to exhuast flow that is 75% of the intake. and thats overkill in almost every engine except for f1 cars.
It's overkill, but it helps. And I already knew these things to be true. You should know that on a SOHC, the arms can't "follow" the lobes as closely, because of the extra space between the cam, and the rocker arms. It sounds to me that since you're an advocate of the A20A, you're going say that it's features are the best, same that an 302, 350, 572, or 6-Pack fan will say "OHV 2 valves is better than DOHC 4 valves" They'll give a reason like "each valve area on a 4 valve is smaller than the 2 valve area" or something that makes that setup sound favorable. Oh, and VTEC, it's self, I don't care about, I need revs, VTEC or not.
Actually there a few 200+ hpo a20a daily drivers around. then again i prefer a nice big fat TQ curve. something most other honda engine struggle with. As for big exspensive upgrades. Nah just the usuall stuff. P&P good cam grind, and some compression is about all you need to make 200hp under 7000rpm.
As for a better starting point. Well unless you start with a dart b series block. your gonna have to spend like $2200 on a darton mid sleeve kit.and thats to get 80% of the stability already built into the a20a block from the factory Then more money on a crank etc. the a20a's stock internals aside from pistons are proven to make in excess of 300hp withouth flinching. But really its good insurance ot upgrade parts like rods,valves and pistons.
Those A20 drivers are most likely turbo, as well, and why are they under 7000 RPM? I guess that's a preference thing, you don't care about revs, and want torque down low, I want something that can't idle, or make power below 6000, but smashes at 10,000 RPM. Hell, I feel like any motor below 2.2 Liters should rev to 8000, that's what small motors are all about. Yes, 2.0 is small.
You would not need that much work for a B16A.
Let's say target HP is 220 HP, non turbo, 9,500 R/MIN. What would take more work, and take more money? B16A or A20A?
If I wanted to take a non powerband altering turbo route to reach 220 HP, then the iron blocked A20A might seem better. There's 1 point for you.
Sorry to hear that. Im sure my wifes n/a 4dr could whips its tail around the block with just bolt ons and retunning. Oh yeah you do care about revs way to much.
TQ x RPM / 5250 = hp
see ya later
Yeah, I'm sorry too. My credit is shot to hell, because of that Si, and I may never be able to get a fucking new car, or house, EVER. But, I got to enjoy a B16A for a few months...That's why I'm back to a carbed 3G, the cheap way way to rev to 8000 all day long. Yes, I chose carbed specifically for no rev limit.
Wife's N/A what? Accord? A1, or A3? Mods? Anyway, if it can beat an EM1, more power to her. But there's one constant; it won't out-rev a B16A, or have the potential.
See, it's like this;
B16A = Max HP @ 7600, redline of 8100, then:
Light cams = Max HP 8000/Max RPM 8400
Mild cams = 8600/9500
Street Wild = 9500/10,500
Race Wild = 11,000/12,300
A20A = Max HP @ 5500, redline of 6250
Light Cams = 6000/6200
Mild Cams = 6500/6800
Street Wild = 7200/7800
Race Wild = 8000/8500
Of course, this takes for granted that the respective motor has the supporting mods to make the extra power at the new cam's powerband. And, yeah, that formula is probably like one of the 1st things any self proclaimed "car guy" learned...
It was fun, to see other's thoughts, though.
And coupeboy, get yourself a Gen 1 B16A, or a B18A1, either are from the 2G Integra, or from an SiR EF8/EF9.
B16A 5XXXX= 89-91 CR-X SiR, Civic SiR/SiRII, some LSD
B16A 1XXXX= 90-93 Integra RSi/XSi
B18A1 = 90-93 Integra RS/LS/GS
jesus christ....seans amazing
-respect
--kevin :[
cb7tuner.com .....
wait a second, the S2000 engine is a F20C isnt it?
edit:well..i should read the second page next time =X
A b series engine in the accord is a very very expensive swap, but if that is your beans then go for it!
as for the s2000, the 1st gen ones are good, but the new variation with the upped displacement made the car a lot more "compromise" than performance as it was intended to be.
Last edited by Busted_Blue; 02-16-2004 at 02:17 PM.
I am much more knowledgeable now........ I was thinking of getting another 3G with F/I and going with a ZC motor but I think I Will stick with good ol' now A20.
I am smarter for having read this.
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^And I'm going to leave it that way.
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