i'm gotta get me an new clutch soon and i'm been thinkin of centerforce dual friction , but iv'e seen alot of u guys got the act cluct ..
what act clutch could be compered to the dual friction centerforce ??
and which is the best ?????
i'm gotta get me an new clutch soon and i'm been thinkin of centerforce dual friction , but iv'e seen alot of u guys got the act cluct ..
what act clutch could be compered to the dual friction centerforce ??
and which is the best ?????
Centerforce i hear suck!! They dont the power as well as the act!!! The act has smoother engagement and a free repalcement warranty!!!![]()
Cold Air intake, Apexi N1 turbomuffler w/2.25 piping, H22 injectors,gutted cat, Dc sport header, accel coil, MSD ignition, Dropzone coilovers
an aftermarket clutch is a waste of money unless ur running a lot of mods to your engine and drivetrain. To be honest, with installation a STock replacement costs 200 bux (US) less than an aftermarket clutch.
I would suggest, if you got a lot of mods in ur to-do list, then it would be a good investment. THe stock clutch should hold up for a good amount, but yeah, they stlip like crazy when u dump the clutch. I get no grip on the clutch even when i am in second gear after dumping the clutch for 0-60 times. Its just sad. But for normal driving, a stock clutch is good.
Also, you can look into Centerforce clutches if you want. I dont know much about em, cause i have only dealt with ACTs but they are pretty crazy when it comes to holding up power. My friends Corolla used to grip like a MOFO even with the Bootom of the line ACT. BUt engagement was rough under 2000 rpm. Its easier in higher revs tho.
go with ACT
i have had mine for like about 2 years...its keeps getting better and better...
duno bout the centerforce
.
I have the centerforce.And well I was not happy with it for awhile.But they say it needs 30-40 starts before it starts working properly.I still havent drove it that much since I got it.So it has been sliping for me.When trying to launch.It's getting better thow.Give me a couple weeks and ask me again if u would like.
Stop bench racing and pick up a wrench
I know my spelling sucks and I suck with computers deal with it.
what kind of act should i buy for daily driving and a few not so heavy runs in the weekend ???
i really have no idea about clutches
I have a center force D/F I like it a lot BUT if you don't break it in properly then it will fail. Keep it under 3k for about 500 miles
Originally Posted by gekko
Get one with the street/stock disk... I've heard they will do better for daily driving
hmm, i just went to their website and found out that i drive by ACTs main headquater place every day on the way to school!![]()
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b20accord SN on honda-tech,homemadeturbo,clubcivic,turbod16, and many more
yea just get the street clutch, there is the regular or the long life which cost a little more, both hold the same, and the same engagement.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Centerforce dual friction = stock pressure plate with slightly better friction material on one side of the clutch surface.
Get yourself an oem replacement before you buy centerforce. Not worth the money. Im not happy with it at all
get an ACT street clutch ..i think its stage 1....
and get ur flywheel resurfaced
.
Originally Posted by od2681
ok just going to find someone who sells it here in Norway , how much is resurface cost "over there" ?
I believe the centerforce is considered a "race application" disc so they dont comply to asbestos laws. Farm vehicles do not have to meet those rules so heavy duty equipment may use asbestos as friction material.
My point is with a stock disc you may glaze it if you tend to slip alot. Then the pressure plate and disc will lose friction under hard acceleration. Asbestos "pucks" bed in even after major slipping which is why asbestos was used in a large scale long ago. Call up centerforce and see if they use asbestos. to my understanding they have asbestos in the disc (puck side). This is what I've heard.
The pressure plate in the centerforce should provide more pressure compared to stock. More pressure means better engagement. A clutch should be eased into anyways at the track. Popping the clutch isn't a smart way of engagement. Slipping the clutch not only saves cv joints but ring and pinions in the transaxles. Race clutches are design to provide some slip but its calculated so that you dont glaze your flywheel and pressure plate. If you want performance using a stock disc is half assed and you shouldn't complain about driveability with a race disc.
i got my thing done for 50 bucks...i mean the resurface part...you can probably find cheaper cuzz i got mine done at a performance shop ....they specialized in hondas
.
how about those clutches on ebay, why are they so cheap? EXEDY brand
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2459582717
a link
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
exedy daikin= stock replacement. I have one in my lxi and its pretty nice for a stock replacement type clutch... they also come with NSK throwout bearing and alignment tool, and NSK t/o bearing and Exedy/Daikin clutch is what honda uses for stock parts, so its good shit.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
what is the website horsepoweraddicts.com or something where they have clutches for our cars? someone private message it to me cause that is all i need right now and than my rally car is done. thanks Chris
well i have a Centerforce clutch in my hatch, and it purly sucks....... its only a stage 1 but it slips everygear, and it always did, plus it took nearly 6 months to break it in, now i only half to adjust the clutch once a month, and the pressure plate is intolerable, instead of putting stronger pressure bands they simply re loacted the pivot points of athe stock ones. (resulted in a snaped clutch cable)
But on the brihter side. i have a few friends that work at SPEC cluthes Here in Alabama, and they will ship anywhere. i can pst a number or something if people want, they will make custom Flwwheels with replacable surfaces and stage 1 - 6 clutches. i know that a stage 2 will hold the poewr of my friends mods theough all 5 gears with no slip. and its really smoth engagement. i think i can work prices out to be
Stage 1 - 150$
Stage 2 - 250$
Stage 3 - 300 - 399
the rest i havent priced. well my 2C again.
IM just trying to hlep support a cause anyway possiable.
k..i really don't know what you people do to your clutches. My friends runs a 12 second integra with Nitrous on a Centerforce dual friction. He never has slipping problems, in fact he snapped an axle cause it grips so hard. I bought the dual friction and currently i only have 230km on it with my new motor. Engages smooth and from when i have gave it the boot, not right off the line. It has no signs of slipping.
Matt
1985 Honda Prelude SOHC ET-2
Its horsepowerfreaks.comOriginally Posted by sandmbiker351
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
and tell em Caleb from N2O Racing sent you!![]()
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
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