Here's the deal. I have an 87 lude si, a20a3 pgm-fi. Anyone know what the flow rate of the stock injectors is? Im upgrading for my turbo setup and i want to make sure i dont want to make the mistake of buying new injectors of the same flow rate. Thanks in advance!
u want to turbo your motor, get the blue top DSM injectors they flow 450cc and they are good. U can also get 550cc if u want.
I think the stock one is like 240cc or 210cc. i am not sure, i been asking this question forever and no one seems to answer them to my satisfaction.
Originally Posted by smufguy
cool, thanks. Im only gonna be running 6 psi, do you think 450cc is too big?
240cc's is the a20 flow rate
Depends, how are you going to control your fuel curve? i.e what kinda of computer?
i would say for any forced injection, 450cc and up are optimal. besides u can get a 450cc off a turbo DSM like i said, or a talon or a laser (all the same) and hook it up to yours. But u gotta know that u have to run a standalone or a a piggyback (i dont think we have that support for a stock 3g ECU) to manage your spark, fuel and everything else in bwt. This engine management will also operate and utilize ur injectors duty cycle to keep the engine well fed with gas considering u got a good enough pump to push all that volume.
Look in the turbo section under performance and take a look at Sean's setup and his accordcentral site to get more info on turbos and bolton turbo kits for our 3g. Im sure u know of it already.
Yeah , i know of it. Im dont feel like swapping electronics right now , also since im only running 6 psi. I'm very strapped for cash right now, so im looking for the cheapest way out. I have my intercooler all welded up and ready to go, starting to make my 4-1 manifold. So I'm just gonna do it the old school way. After this motor blows up, im gonna build my extra motor to handle a good 20 psi and then i'll worry about pimp management. Like I said , im just doing the old school shit with an fmu, bigger injectors, and a zenir diode on the map sensor. The diode will ground out the map sensor at atmospheric pressure, and then the fmu and pressure switches and what not will take over from there. I know it's ghetto, but it works, and it put my buddy's car into mid 12's. He runs 20 psi on that kind of setup for years with no problems. Im bidding on an fmu in ebay right now that allows you to adjust base pressure and the ratio at which the fmu increases pressure so I can dial it in as good as possible. Down the road when i have cash, I'll swith to stand alone fuel management and ignition as well.
a fair warning....6psi on a highmilage engine that doesnt have any internal modifications, is NOT A GOOD IDEA...trust me, I have a thrown rod to prove this theroy.
I know it's not the greatest idea, but I do have 2 engines that both run very very well. My extra motor is out of my old prelude, which had 205k on it when i junked it. I junked it because there were huge holes in the car and the body was beyond repair. But that thing ran like a champ. Drag raced it once a week for two years. Hell, one time i was on the freeway and i downshifted to 3rd to pass somebody, missed fourth, and my gas pedal got stuck under the floor mat, and thing wrapped all the way around the tack and reved as high as valve float would let it for about 20 seconds before i could unjam the gas pedal. Went home, changed the oil, and went to the track that night. The one in my car now only has 106k and also runs like a champ. That to me being a honda , it's just broken ina fair warning....6psi on a highmilage engine that doesnt have any internal modifications, is NOT A GOOD IDEA...trust me, I have a thrown rod to prove this theroy..Also, my buddy's dodge has all cast internals, 215k on the odometer and has been takin 25 psi for years. I am very meticulous(spelling?) about maintenence on my cars. I know it's a crap shoot, but I have an extra motor, and im gonna have some fun blowing it up while im building the extra with forged h-beam rods, forged pistons, balance the whole rotating assembly, balanced and micropolished crank, and some crazy head work. I am well aware of the dangers of this. Don't let my newbie status fool you. That just means i rarely post on this board. Actually, im a mechanic at a speed shop. I've chosen to build an a20 to prove all the v-tec nazis wrong. I tell them, hell , give me a 3 cyl. geo metro, i'll make that bitch haul ass
well I just hope you dont throw something before you have your second engine built...good luck with building it up though, and oh ya....is ur buddies engine a magnum?trust me it will take alot to kill that sucker....the local red neck junkyard proved that theroy a long time ago.
....that and it is infact possible for a 96 honda accord to have 400hp, and still not go anywhere.(damn numnuts forgot to put the clutch release cable in!)
well I just hope you dont throw something before you have your second engine built...good luck with building it up though, and oh ya....is ur buddies engine a magnum?
haha, no, it's not a magnum. It's a 2.2 liter dodge shadow. Probably the scariest car i've driven yet. Nearly impossible to keep in one lane. You don't know what torque steer is until you've drivin this car. Jesus Christ!
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