well it looks like im biting the bullet and i need to retension it anways so why not replace it too...
anyone have any tips that might make it a little easier to do as i go after this feat?
well it looks like im biting the bullet and i need to retension it anways so why not replace it too...
anyone have any tips that might make it a little easier to do as i go after this feat?
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
there was one guy on board i belive said that they did it from the cam shaft.
If you just want to change it one tooth my cam how to can help else there shouls be a timing belt how to
alright, yeah, well im thinking maybe i should just completely put another one on there because its probably worn out and im gonna have to take off half the stuff anyways...
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
All I gotta say is good luck with the crank pulley bolt and make sure to use a six sided socket or you will strip it
the easiest way to change the belt is to pull the engine
Travis
www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback
Make sure you do the water pump at the same time. It is also a good idea to replace the cam seal and the other belts as well. For the crank pulley bolt, I recommend taking it to a shop before you start the whole job and have them loosen it a bit with their impact gun if you don't have one. And if you have the vise-grip chain tool, it helps out immensely in holding the pulley while you loosen.
Leave the car on the ground and in gear, parking brake on and use a good size breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt (its counter clockwise rotation) If you need to you can wedge a large Flathead screw driver between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing.
Hope this helps, LOL
Phil
Heya John, no need to pull the engine !!!!
Jack up the car and put stands undeneath, remove the crank pulley bolt (good air tools recommended). Remove the PS belt and Alt belt (A/C to if you have it), water pump pulley (3 10mm bolts), Remove the valve cover, then the 2 piece timing cover. Set engine at TDC, with the cam gear aligned in the 'UP' position.Losten off the tensioner bolt, and gently pry the tensioner idler back, retighten tensioner. Place a jack (with a small block of wood) under the oilpan, and raise the engine just enough to take the pressure off the front engine mount. Remove the 2 bolts securing the mount to the front of the engine, then losten the thru bolt on the mount at the fenderwell, and swing the mount upwards to get the belt off...Install your new belt, make sure the crankshaft is at the "T" position, and cam gear is aligned with the valve cover mating surfaces on the head (you will see the notches on the camgear), once aligned, losten, then retighten the tensioner. Turn the engine over 2 revolutions, then recheck the cam timing settings (if you are out 1 tooth, this is the easiest way to correct it during installation). If all is honky-dorie, you're all set to put it back together, and set the ignition timing.
This seems to be a long process, but it really isnt. Just take your time and you will feel great once finished. (takes me an hour to do this job, but I've done more than I can count).
GOOD LUCK !!
My other Honda has 2 more cylinders, and 2 less wheels.
A little trick I did on my Nissan truck to loosen the crank bolt:
Not sure what direction our engine rotation is, but on my truck, it was clockwise, while the bolt loosened counterclockwise. Using a stout breakerbar and good socket, I just wedged the bar against the floor, then bumped the motor over. Basically, the motor becomes your impact wrench. Worked great.
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
The hardest part I had was removing the crank bolt! I had to buy a 3ft pipe from lowes and the biggest 1/2" drive breaker bar (craftsman) I could find. I had to raise the engine some so that the breaker bar would swing enough to move it. I had a helping hand hold the screwdriver on the flywheel teeth to keep it from moving. Also I had it in 5th gear with the ebrake on. Other then that it was just time consuming removing all teh junk from there. If you have a few bucks, replace all your oil pump seals and cam and crank seals while your in there. preventative maintenance is your friend
That's a good idea but our engines spin counter clockwise. If someone tried doing that, they would tighten the bolt more.Originally Posted by Robs89LXi
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
Yeah, that's why I said I did not know which way ours turned. Now I do. Thanks, Steve.
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
Get a TDC piston stop. Screw it in the plug hole and put the car in N. Now the engine wont spin when you go for the bolt!
Drive fast and learn fast to drive slow....drive slow and learn slow....that you can drive fast!!!
another trick is to feed thick wire into a spark plug hole... it basically keeps the engine from comming back up with you are busting the bolt
Travis
www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback
Ha, ha. Dx, you just beat me to it. Yeah, that is an old shade-tree-mechanic trick that works. Use an old plug wire and feed it in. Make sure you are on the compression stroke though so all your valves are closed.
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
cool trick
Drive fast and learn fast to drive slow....drive slow and learn slow....that you can drive fast!!!
hehe, thanks alot for all the info guys thsi really helps ALOT!! yeah hopefully i can get that pesky bolt off without too many problems or i will have to resort to trying to use some of the methods you guys described to "stop" the engine, i do have a makeshift breaker bar luckily this will be great fun.... hehe
thanks again, ill be starting the project either thursday or saturday!
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
This is what I did . . . crazy - yeah, but it worked great . . . the photo doesn't show it, but I put a 2x4 on the floor flat & then a 2x4 upright and then stuck this drill bit into the pulley . . . this "stopped" the crank from turning . . . then I bought a breaker bar and used a pipe on it and . . . FINALLY, it broke . . . I was one happy camper . . .
. . . you don't need to put that much torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt when putting it back on because it'll tighten up "naturally" . . .
. . . believe me - if I can do this - anyone can!
good luck & happy Honda-ing,
IPF
Ummm . . . brella, I needanumbrella.
alright im goin for it right now guys, ill let ya know if i have any questions or if i fuck anythign up
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
HI ALL
I know this is an old posting, but I have some simple questions, as some low life scum has just stolen all my tools so I have to replace them all now (go and get a job and buy your own) sorry as you can tell I'm realy p**sed off, I just want to know what size socket I need for the crank bolt and is it important it has to be a 6 pointer.
And if the engine turns counter-clockwise then do I have to turn it clockwise to undo.
Also would I need an extension bar or would a deep socket suffice.
Thanks Guys
The socket is 17mm I believe; a 6 point socket would definately be prefered. I got mine off by using a 17mm socket on a 2 foot breaker bar while using a chain wrench to hold the pulley in place. The bolt comes off counter-clockwise just like any other bolt. Hope this helps.
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