power problems under 2.5 K RPM !

[ACCORD EX]

hello everybody !
haven't posted since ages ! but i am really busy in my studies !
anyway i still have this problem but now it gets worth and changes !

when ever i am driving and i floor my car, it accelerates slowly till a certain point ( which changes from time to time , somtimes 2K , 3K now 2.5 K ) and then really gives me a strong kick that pushes me back ! it happens in all gears ! BUT it doesn't hesistate when accelerating slowly ! the rpm just rises slowely !

so i checked spark plugs , spark plug wires , coil resistance , distributer cap contacts , rotor , cleaned distributer from inside , vacuum advance diaphram works fine everything is ok !

so i thought timing was retarded so i advanced it a little and it pinged so i set it back as it was ! what could teh problem be ?!

i noticed the following >
1. the gaps between the reluctor and stator are not equal ! could it cause that ! ? look at the picture attached to know what gaps i am talkin about !

2. the distributer is fully retarderd ( i mean i can't retard it anymore ) and once i advance it a little it pings ! i think there is a tooth off in the timing belt ! but i don't think that will cause my problem, or ?

pleeeease help ! ?

Mike !

[k-roy]

It sounds like your belt is off a tooth, witch is retarding the timing. When I did my belt I had to redo it twice to get it perfect.

Did you check out the fuel system? I would change the filter(s) and check the pressure before messing with the belt.

[riced_roach]

set your timing back to factory specs. why dont you pull the timing belt cover quickly to see that the belt isn't sloppy. This is your opportunity to check to see crank and cam alignment is correct.

Get a timing light to see your static timing. Then as you look at the timing mark see that the timing advances as you increase the rpms. The timing should go upto 20+ degrees. If its not advancing that could be the hesitation/sluggishness.

Sometimes testing the resistance of the primary and secondary cct of the coil maybe in spec but the coil still can be defective. Also check to see that the fuel filter is new 'cause this may impede fuel flow at full throttle situations.

[A20A1]

I noticed the following >
1. The gaps between the reluctor and stator are not equal! Could it cause that!? look at the picture attached to know what gaps I am talkin about!

2. The distributer is fully retarderd ( i mean i can't retard it anymore ) and once I advance it a little it pings ! i think there is a tooth off in the timing belt! but I don't think that will cause my problem, or?

pleeeease help!?
Mike !

I'm surprised your car is running and not stalling or having a hard time starting... when my gap was off it cause both those problems. And for some reason it would just blow itself out of allignment right after I fixed it.

Is your power valve plunger operating?
Float level set right?

[ACCORD EX]

if fuel filter has problems it would have problems at all rpms and i mentioned it doesn't hesitate !
how else can i test the coil ! the car doesn't miss and it starts up fine warm and cold ! , fuel consumption is normal and mixture is fine too and no smoke from any kind ! ? i am pretty sure it's electrical ! or vacuum advance !

what do you mean by power valve and what does it do ! ?
do i have to adjust the gap ? the screws are pretty tight ! so how the heck were they changed ??
does the coil have a change in operation when the vacuum advance kicks in !? or it supplies the same voltage and the disctributer does all the advance ! ?
any other ideas ?

[A20A1]

Well I used a flat head screw driver to fix my gaps... they say you are supposed to unscrew the stator at the base and slide it around till the gaps are equal but that doesn't always work. I think maybe the bearrings are failing and the reluctor hits one of the stator plates... or the heat bends it out of allignment. There are times when parts (namely the reluctor) inside the distributor are magnetized... even though its supposed to be non-magnetic material.

[ACCORD EX]

can this be my problem ?! i mean the gaps ! ? and what does the power valve do ?

[A20A1]

oh sorry... the powervalve adds fuel when vacuum drops... meaning under throttle.

[ACCORD EX]

another question ? i can take my rotor off pretty easy ?is that normal ! ?

any other ideas ?

Mike !

[Michael Cote]

My 88 accord EX carbourated did that. Mine was hesitation from 2000-3500 rpm after it warmed up. It idled fine and worked great under a load or wide open. It was the little solenoid at back of carb. It has one wire going to it and is held on by one screw. I had to power it up from fuse box (power while key on only) by running wire from accessory pin through firewall and quick connect it to a fused wire going to that solenoid. That solenoid is suppose to shut off when you turn car off and also shut down during deceleration above 20mph or faster. Good luck, Mike C.

[ACCORD EX]

yes that the primary slow mixture solenoid ! it works good in my car ! thanx for teh idea though ! !


Mike !

[shepherd79]

another question ? i can take my rotor off pretty easy ?is that normal ! ?

any other ideas ?

Mike !

i don't think it supposed to do that. remove the rotor and see if there is any play in the distributor shaft.
while you have that, try adjusting the space. you have nothing else to loose.

[Michael Cote]

I re-read your sympthoms and now realize it's not hesitation your having probs with. Sounds like it could be secondary problems. It seems to take a few extra seconds to open secondary after full throttle. Check vacuum line that goes from secondary to thermal valve at thermostat housing. When engine is cold, that valve is suppose to stop vacuum going to secondary by letting vacuum pass through it so it doesn't get to secondary dashpot. When car warms up that thermo valve closes and now you have vacuum to secondary. My thermo valve stopped closing so I by passed it. I could see traces of coolant around it as well. Works fine now. It was like stepping on a dead cat untill I got secondaries working again. You'll have to take air cleaner and housing off and trace vacuum lines 17 and 28? to secondary dashpot but not complicated. I might have taken a plug off a spare vaccuum source and went direct to secondary dashpot but can't remember. Put long vacuum line on secondary and suck on it while holding throtle open.(with engine off of course). It should open. That'll check dashpot function. Oil all linkages as well. If getting proper vacuum it should want to open while engine is running but depending on where throttle is positioned if it lets secondary open or not. Usually from 3/4 throttle to full open. Hope that wasn't too confusing. Goodluck if you try this. Mike C.