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Thread: B18b1

  1. #1
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    B18b1

    how much effort and money would it be to convert my carb to a B18B1?
    my main concern is wiring... i was thinking about a fuel cell instead of a gas tank.

    B18B1 = 96-00 integra gs, 1.8 dohc, non-vtec
    its not how fast you go, its how fast you get going.



  2. #2

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    if you want non-vtec motor, B18B1 would be great for dual weber sidedrafters setup.
    the only problem is that you will have to spend over $1000+ on B series Engine mounts, shift rods, and axels.
    plus don't forget you will have to buy weber carbs, new intake manifold and many other little things.
    the total cost can be way over $3500 easy just for parts.

    now, if you want to convert to EFI, you will need half of EFI 3geez. that can cost you between $250 and $750 depends where you buy the parts.
    so think what you want to do.
    Alex.

  3. #3

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    I think its cheaper to convert to EFI and get a JDM B20 or a B16. That way you will have more hp and be fuel efficient. Don't get me wrong I love my carb, but I know it's not as good as a good fuel injection setup.

  4. #4

    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    Don't forget the B18B has a hydraulic clutch so you have to do a conversion or get a tranny from a non-VTEC B-series with a cable tranny such as a B18A. You will have to run a new gas line for EFI and switch all the wiring in the engine and cabin. It's a lot of work. You just have to be ready for it.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

  5. #5

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    That's part of the reason why I'm keeping my accord carbed. I know it probably wont be as fast as my 94 lude si so I won't drop as much money into the accord now. But I will make her look purty I'm planning on buying some good lowering springs after I get one of my bills paid off. And a custom paint job with a double front lip and custom rear lip.

    So she will look nice when its done.

  6. #6
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    well i need to take my engine out because my main seal is leaking like a mofo so i figured if the engine is out then why not rebuild or replace seals then i was like well i could just put in a new/better engine in. i dunno what to do, what do i have to do exactly to convert to EFI?
    its not how fast you go, its how fast you get going.

  7. #7

    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    http://pages.infinit.net/omus/

    That's a link to Carotman's site. He has a how-to on the FI swap. Keep in mind though using a B-series engine will require less parts and work for the FI swap. Some parts and procedures are for the A-series only.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

  8. #8
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    PIP... i got a source for a parts car with EFI... we could do the swap this spring... oh yah.. bring your damn car up soon.. its getting warm out

    Travis
    www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback

  9. #9
    Banned Nuffice's Avatar
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    You don't have to convert to EFI.. You can have a shop make you a standalone harness. I have seen shops do it and it works well. The only way to use a hydro tranny is to convert to hydro, There are no premade kits. Hasport Cable to Hydro is made for Hydro cars wanting to use cable trannies.

  10. #10
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    i'm thinking of just finding an A20A3 and running an EFI engine, bolts in less head aches, less money, better platform
    its not how fast you go, its how fast you get going.

  11. #11
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    What about the standalone efi system I read about somewhere? Someone had a GM efi kit or something to that effect.
    Gone thru two minivans and two sports cars, but my accord keeps on going at 254,000 miles. Actually, it died. But here comes the JDM B20A!!!

    Accord owner since 1995

  12. #12
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    what is standalone? what does it do?
    its not how fast you go, its how fast you get going.

  13. #13
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    It's an EFI conversion that hardly connects to anything on the accord. It has it's own ECU, sensors, etc....

    I just may do this when I get the money. I just started a new job after not working for over a year, so now I can finish my JDM B20A swap. My problem is that I have a carb'd 4-door LX ('86), which is causing alot of little tedious headaches. So this sounds like a good option than converting over to the stock EFI. Here's a thread that talks about it....

    https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?...ghlight=gm+efi

    I would just recommend doing a search on GM and EFI though. That way you get the complete 411.
    Gone thru two minivans and two sports cars, but my accord keeps on going at 254,000 miles. Actually, it died. But here comes the JDM B20A!!!

    Accord owner since 1995

  14. #14

    carotman's Avatar
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    Well, you don't need to worry about the hydro clutch on a B18B1 swap. All you need to do is use a 90-93 teg trans.

    http://pages.videotron.com/omus
    3geez member since July 12 2000

    I need these parts!
    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742

  15. #15
    Banned Nuffice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carotman
    Well, you don't need to worry about the hydro clutch on a B18B1 swap. All you need to do is use a 90-93 teg trans.

    Make sure it's a PRE-OBD Tranny.

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