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Thread: Removed vac hoses today......But....carb kick down problem

  1. #1
    LX User ehulst's Avatar
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    Exclamation Removed vac hoses today......But....carb kick down problem

    I got the whole thing hooked up..w/out vac hoses......but the carb does a P SSSSSSSSSSSSSST sound from 2000 on its way down to 1000 and then it shuts off ......its been doing this to me mostly....it was ideling with out me touching it for a 1min or 2..i fixed the first problem....vac line open....now should i just adjust my air/fuel?....i don't have a clue what its at the moment.....i've been twisting it so much.....but this whole carb thing i'm starting to get the hang of but i'm not that experienced with it....



  2. #2

    A20A1's Avatar
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    You shouldn't adjust the air fuel, but since you already messed with it then...

    If you have a micro flat head, turn the screw in very very carefully all the way untill it gets tight... don't force it if it stops turning or you'll ruin the needle seat. Then turn it out, I think 7 or 10 complete turns

    If you have a larger (wider) flat head then turn it in as far as you can... since the larger flat head will only allow you to turn in the needle so far before it gets stoped by the metal lip inside.... then you only need to turn it out 3 or 5 complete turns.
    - llia


  3. #3
    LX User ehulst's Avatar
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    what screw? idel, idel mixture?

  4. #4
    LX User ehulst's Avatar
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    if its the air/fuel....i can do it by hand....if not then what screw....

  5. #5

    A20A1's Avatar
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    what? what do you mean you can do the air fuel by hand... there is only one screw that adjusts the idle air/fuel mixture and you need a screw driver to get at it... if you are turning the black knob at the back of the carb that is the thottle stop screw.
    - llia


  6. #6
    LX User ehulst's Avatar
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    thats odd....i read that the black nob with the gruves on it was the air/fuel adjuster...i've got a stock carb not weber.....if u got pics of what i should do send em...cause it would help.....preciate it too for the help.....

  7. #7

    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    The black knob with grooves is the throttle stop screw. Tightening the screw lowers the idle and loosening raises the idle. Also, remember if you're in a colder climate and have no choke, it's more difficult to start. If it's really bad out, on the first try mine will make the psssst sound and die. I just give it more gas and start it up. If it's 30 and above, it only dies once. Below that and I've had to crank it up to 7 times before it would stay running.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

  8. #8

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Hmm well I guess you've been adjusting the wrong thing,
    turn the throttle stop screw in untill the carb idles... then wait for the car to completely warm up and readjust the throttle stop to set the idle about 1,000 - 1,100 rpm in neutral (auto).
    - llia


  9. #9

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveDX89
    The black knob with grooves is the throttle stop screw. Tightening the screw lowers the idle and loosening raises the idle.
    You got that backwards...
    - llia


  10. #10

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    if the car goes to 2000 and drops to 1000 and dies, that means you still have some kind of vacuum leak.
    which HOW to did you follow?
    what kind lines did you keep?
    what did you with choke?
    Alex.

  11. #11
    LX User ehulst's Avatar
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    well since i got that all mixed up
    which is the throttle screw...the one next to the throttle cable...like next to that bolt on the end of the throttle....if so then i tired and i don't wnat to strip it cause i'm having trouble gettin the right angle on it....its such a small area and its hard to turn..do i need to take the carb off?

  12. #12

    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A20A1
    You got that backwards...
    Oops.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

  13. #13
    LX User ehulst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehulst
    well since i got that all mixed up
    which is the throttle screw...the one next to the throttle cable...like next to that bolt on the end of the throttle....if so then i tired and i don't wnat to strip it cause i'm having trouble gettin the right angle on it....its such a small area and its hard to turn..do i need to take the carb off?
    I followd one that was posted by accordex.....it had a pic of the vacuume diagram and he took out all the lines i didn't need and then kept the ones i did.....and routed them to the right place......hose #17, 6, 2,25,19,8....and i think a few more....if something is wrong in that let me kno.....cause i don't want to fuck up my engine if it isn't already ......O and if any of u kno how to custom the airbox with detail set me up with it....just to have as a resource...when i get the airbox......

  14. #14

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    so you followed Mike's diagram. if you need step by step help, AIM me kengury79.
    i will help you.
    Alex.

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    hey shepherd79 i have been using the screw next to the throttle to adjust idle should i be using the screw with the knob on the rear of the carb if so should i unscrew the one on the side and start with the one on the back? i thought that was the fast idle screw where is that one at? how do i lower the cold idle it hits about 2500 rpms wich i know is normal but i would like it lower regardless if possible.
    "i dont have friends anymore and my favorite hangout is the junkyard but damn it runs good"..... by me. "i know i have not gotten laid in a while but trust me the blisters on my hands are from working on my car"...........by me.

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