i just bought the msd blaster 2 coil as well as the msd 6a ignition system but what i wanted to know was if i should have also bought the msd wires?or what size of wires would work the best cause right now i have 7mm
i just bought the msd blaster 2 coil as well as the msd 6a ignition system but what i wanted to know was if i should have also bought the msd wires?or what size of wires would work the best cause right now i have 7mm
"smoke em"
You should go with the magnecoe 8.5mm wires they r really nice.I have pretty much the same setup on my 3g and my wifes.But I have the sc-i and she has the 6al
Stop bench racing and pick up a wrench
I know my spelling sucks and I suck with computers deal with it.
i have msd 6A, blaster SS coil, and msd 8.5mm wires. i am happy with the setup. i changed out the cap and rotor also when i installed these, and i do notice a slight gain in power, but its definetly running stronger!
I have had local people tell me that if I get better plugs, MSD ignition, wires, and coil, that it will burn a hole in my piston... is there crazy talk or true? If its not going to hurt, then I will get one for my LX
well i installed the msd coil and ignition system and man it really does make a difference.it just gets up and go's.
"smoke em"
only one small problem i have a noise coming from my speakers but it sounds like ur listening to the motor running, its weird. i have no clue what it is? so if any body knows le me know how to fix it
"smoke em"
Originally Posted by 3rd gen 89 se-i
It is probily ur groung try and find a better one
Stop bench racing and pick up a wrench
I know my spelling sucks and I suck with computers deal with it.
Crazy talk!
As long as you have a good air fuel mix and the rest of the motor is timed and tuned right nothing is going to happen.
I think the hole in the piston story stems form the idea of using the improper heat range for the plugs... something about the spark plug distributing the heat too slowly and the combustion chamber getting hotter then it should.
- llia
i have that noise as well. i figured it was EMI from the wires that go to the coil, or power wires of the MSD getting signal through to the power wire of the stereo...
either way its only obnoxious until you turn up your music!
that's exactly it......... get a different ground.
Your 4MB signature image has been deleted.
^And I'm going to leave it that way.
your filter might be messed up there, the emi filter, it looks like a little computer chip next to your coil, i have an MSD BLASTER 2 coil as well as fat ass no resistor sparkplugs and i can run a freakin FM transmitter (Very pickey) without any problems
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
about the engine whine from the stereo, if you have an high power amp and the power cable is running next to your rca's you get that same interference, I have that problem, but am to lazy to move the rcas to the other side of the car, Its probably a similar thing with electronic interference in the signal wires going to your speakers.
You guys should buy one of these
Also redo the grounds, that should solve your interferance issues.
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http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...58&prmenbr=361
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i think a good spark wire should have either 15 ohms or less reistance. some of them have a thicker silicone casing to prevent fields around the carriage wire itself. Yeah the radio condensor should filter out the noise, but the one kroy posted can be used with MSD 7 or 8, its not for blaster 6 and lower.
What is with you Americans and your obsession about the ignitionsystem? IMO, it can stay stock until you are blowing out the spark due to excessive compression or high boost pressure. As long as the spark ignites the air/fuelmixture I can't honestly say that I see the point of beefing up the ignitionsystem. It's possible that I'm missing something here, if so; care to enlighten me?
well, you probably did not do that much searching around. Every wire has resistance and the best wire is one with the lowest resistance. Also with high current comes electrical interference due to magnetic fields around the current flow, wire. To prevent this interference u have to have good enough insulation that can dampen the fields significantly.
The reason to have high current is for better spark. Under high engine load or high engine speed, our stock centrifugal adv distributors cant have much contact and thus yield poor spark or to say weak spark. To overcome this, u replace either the distributor or the ignition unit. Since the distributor is not available, we use a better ignition system which gets the information from the engine speed and produces stronger spark at higher engine rpm. ALso some of these modules come with built in rev limiters that can cut off spark after certain rpm so u can control combustion and hence prevent accidental over revving and blowin up ur motor. ALso some of them have ignition retard for forced induction motors where again the modules are rpm operated and retard the ignition timing accordingly in conjunction with the dist retard or advance.
This and more reason is why you need better ignition and better ignition also means quicker response and better engine idling and running. IMO, ignition is the last step for tuning for a NA motor. but for a forced induction its a given factor that u have to have it in the whole package, it cannot be added in later, it must go in with all ur turbo, fuel parts.
by the way, im an indian and not yet an american, so its not just americans who are obcessed with it
I really can't agree with all this. I say: "a spark is a spark", and as long as the air/fuelmix is ignited (by a no matter how small spark), that cylinder is going to produce power on that stroke. I really don't get how a stronger spark will make more power, when the power comes from the burning air/fuelmix pressing the piston down?
I don't even think it neccecary to modify the ignition system in a forced-enduction engine (except for the boost retard-device) *unless* you are blowing out the spark. Then it's a simple matter of reducing the plug gap, and it will ignite air/fuelmix again.
Note: Theese are all *theories* from my side, just trying to create a good discussion around a subject everybody has strong feelings for/against.
Did you guys run your power wire and your RCA cables down the same side of the car? If so, that is what they call "alternator noise" I know its a pain in the ass, but you gotta rip up ur carpet yet again and run the power wire on the driver's side (more logical because of location of battery) and run the RCA cables on the other side. Also, try and get some good quality ones with good insulation, like Monster Cable.
Thinking about getting a new 3g...
Dont take this as an insult, but seems like ur knowledge about the whole combustion process is limited. Spark is a spark and combustion will happen is pretty limited talk. If you know anything about flame propegation, flame speed, flame front, advanced ignition, and such aspects of just one combustion process, you will realize why there are soo many aftermarket Ignition systems are out there.
Think of this, when you have an engine, spinning at 6000rpm, which is nothing but 100 revolutions per second, the compression happens at subsonic level, where its extremely close to sonic speed, with the compression of the gas and the flame propegation, almost every cylinder with a weak spark, has total incomplete combustion and as a result the combustion still continues with the exhaust valve open. The more u limit this, the better power you put out. but again, do some research about why there is a need for aftermarket ignition.
NOTE: If you are oblivious why you should retard the ignition timing on a forced - inducted engine, its because you wanna limit adiabatic compression, which is also called as detonation. So like i mentioned, read about all this online using search on google and you will understand.
Thanks for the info. I actually have a good view of how a piston engine works, with the exception of the effects of the spark strength vs. combustion speed vs. flame front; that area. But thanks for clearing this up, I will be adding this to my "how the piston engine works"-library in my mind.
not a problem, you're welcome.
I know this may be an old thread being picked up again, but you guyus that have the MSD Blaster 2 coil, did you use it without the so-called needed resistor or did youu go and get one from radioshack or something. let me know.
anyone do it, or did this get skipped??? I tried lookin at radio shack and frys for the 0.8 ohm resistor it requires if it is needed, but I don't know if ouur cars really dont need it or if it does. smeone please respond, did the search thing and doesnt show anyone doin it so far. whoever did do it without the resistor and havent had any problems, let me know, I wanna get this thing on.
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