Aight bro's. I would really like to keep my baby, but she's a really a high maintainance girl.
Rack and Pinion
Ball Joints
Parts - $475.98
Installation - $379.99
Enviro Fee - $42.80
Sales Tax - $36.66
Total - $934.43
This really sucks arse. I'm thinking about going to the junkyard again and grab these parts. A mechanic friend of mine says it'll just happen again so I'm wondering if I should keep her? Should I? Is it worth it after all the maintainance and restoration is done?
.:: Expect the best; prepare for the worst; take what comes. ::.
i bet you could get the parts for much cheaper and/or get stuff from the j/y. hell, doing the labor yourself would save you $380.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
you could get a new 3 g for that price, lol. dunno man, its kind of a close one. I would see how much it is first to have your friend do it.
Kevin
I found a How-To for the Ball Joints. ^^
http://3geez.asmallorange.com/showthread.php?t=15247
.:: Expect the best; prepare for the worst; take what comes. ::.
I just did all of that a week or so back, its not all that hard. If you look around you can find the parts alot cheaper I would think
Damn. Chiltons don't any instructions on the Rack and Pinions.
Oh, hey Vinny, did you go by the manual when you took out the Ball Joints? If not, mind if you could give a guy some directions?
.:: Expect the best; prepare for the worst; take what comes. ::.
That how-to on the lower ball joints may work for some and others it may not. It didn't work for me. I beat the shit out of one of them and it didn't come out. The main problem is the joint moves around so to get a solid blow you have to stand it up, pound it, stand it up again. Mine were so tight, it didn't work so I had to have them pressed out. It was 25 bucks a side for that at Pep Boys.
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
buy a new 3 gee
Silv'
86LXItooFAST4me
How'd you do the ball-joints?
Damn. Anybody know how to do the rack and pinions? I already got a price quote from Checkers for about $210 if I bring in the old rack and pinion.
.:: Expect the best; prepare for the worst; take what comes. ::.
i used a vice, hammer, and a big socket that lined around the lip of the joint. just beat the hell out of it but dont hit the middle of the ball joint and make sure it goes in strait. have you ever done this before at all?
Hell no, bro. I'm as amateur as you can get.
My title still says 'newbie', right? LOL
Last edited by lonesouldier; 04-20-2004 at 03:00 PM.
.:: Expect the best; prepare for the worst; take what comes. ::.
Go on ebay for the ball joints. I can tell you about a guy that sells great quality parts. I know, I've used them and had no problems. Tie rod each 11 bucks, lower ball joint each 17 bucks, and the upper arms which I saw recently on ebay for 25 each but I would recommend the prelude arm swap. All new ball joints for 106 plus about 20 to ship is a great deal. The rack is a little more expensive. I found a site that has a remanufactured one for 100 plus around 15 to ship. You can do all of the ball joints listed in about three hours if there aren't any problems. The rack is not so easy to do. You could reseal yours with a new seal kit off of ebay now for 40 bucks. You will have down time with your car so I would say go to the junkyard and pull another rack for resealing. That is what I'm currently doing plus you will learn how to remove the rack while at the junkyard. If you need any help let me know and dont forget there are two more ball joints in the rear that are about 20-50 bucks each, those you should replace because if they break your wheel will collapse sideways and your car will need alot more repairs if not your body will due to a complete loss of control.
How exactly do I take off the rack? Please note that I have never done this nor worked underneathe the car before. What exactly am I looking for? I'll be looking at my Chilton's manual for reference. What tools do I need?
.:: Expect the best; prepare for the worst; take what comes. ::.
need to remove exhaust downpipe which is most likely rusted solid, pop out tie rod ends, center beam, shift linkage, and that is about it. It should take normal ratchet tools but the exhaust will need a torch to remove the bolts.
So I'm SOL if I don't got a torch, then? Hopefully the guys at the junkyard will be able to help.
.:: Expect the best; prepare for the worst; take what comes. ::.
you dont need a torch. I'm just saying those bolts will be very hard to get off. Anything is easy until a bolt snaps.
Hand held sledge (3LB), Hack saw, 3/4in Breaker bar, 32mm socket, Tie rod separator, channel locks, basic socket set, screw driver and a pry bar.
Remember at a junk yard you don't have to worry about putting back together.
The ball joints are fairly easy the sledge and a good punch with a table mounted vice.
To install a universal u-joint press works great and is rentable at the the local auto store. You can also improvise with oversized sockets and the vice.
The entire knuckle must be removed, fairly simple process.
If you have access to these tools then theres no problem.
Phil
If you're looking for help, I know A20A1 lives in the neighborhood, and he knows these cars pretty well. I'd ask him for help if you need some.
Military style fears God not a stranger.
ball joints arent too bad if you have the tools, rack in these cars is royal PITA!!
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
I just bought all the parts to do the front end on my car..
http://stores.ebay.com/Eaton-Auto-Pa...isplayZ2QQtZkm
cos me $206 for the parts from this guy. ALL NEW I think advance autoparts hace the rack for about $200.
man just soak the shit out of the exhaust bolts for a couple of hours spraying it about every 15 min with some "PB Blaster" , its like WD 40 but works way way better IMO anyway, and just kinda pop the bolts fast when unscrewing them. dont pull on it slow cuz you could twist them off and that SUCK!
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