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Thread: A20A3 Distributor posing

  1. #1
    DX User
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    A20A3 Distributor posing

    Hi!
    Just want to show to dear 3geez community the Photosession of my distro.
    The How-to is planned but I have absolutelly no time to make it in a nearest future. That's why I show only the photo part of my fight with light detonation (that's was the reason why I "recompile" the distro). Now the car is in good shape (тьфу х 3), at least not worse than before, but detonation steel alive.

    The photo series in a chronology order are here:
    http://imx.chat.ru/Honda/distributor/
    No copyrights for 3geez peoples.
    McNick (UA)



  2. #2

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    privet,
    the detonation is not caused by distributor. also it can be die to over advanced timing.
    i am going to say your timing belt moved, sliped a tooth or your coil is not working properly. plus check ECU to make sure you are not getting any error codes.
    Alex.

  3. #3
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    Hi Sheph!
    (Интересно, сколько живущих на 3джизе могут общаться на русском? )
    I thouth before that detonation is a result of wrong function of centrifugal advance. Еhe T-belt, timing is Ok.
    About the I-coil. The resistance of the primary wind is near 2 Ohm instead of 1,3 Ohm according to manual. I think it's accuracy error of my cheap multimeter. Additionally I've tryied to replace my coil on JY with 3 other. The same result.
    ECU throw no code.
    Everything looks fine. But this F... detonation is steel here.
    McNick (UA)

  4. #4

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    i was thinking about that yesterday. you may want to start checking your air/fuel mixture adjuster. it is located in the black box under the hood.
    you can download the 3G shop manual from paul, http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/index.html
    it could be running lean or rich.
    the coil does sound strange. i would get cheap coil something like this
    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=ACC%2D8140
    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=SUM%2DG5217
    they are universal, but you can make them work on our cars. plus they are hole lot better than stock coils.

    P.S. there are a few people that can speak russian.
    Alex.

  5. #5
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    The Paul's Shop manual is downloaded and studied lond time ago

    Do You mean the Idle mixture adjusting sensor? But I have problem not only with Idle-mode detonation. Does this adjuster has an influence to the non-Idle mode? As I understood this adjuster is mainly for CO correction in Idle mode.

    What is strange with I-coil? It is not a problem to replace with new universal. But which one? Accel is not present in our market. To replace with another one I would know the parameters of stock coil. Not only the resistance. The primary wind and Secondary wind turns number is also very important. What's the minimum for spark energy? I heard that honda secondary Voltage is near 24kV max and it is more than other universal 16-18 kV coils. To many Q.
    Thats why for me the simplest way was to make a some free of charge experiments on JY with other stock coils.

    What is really strange? Inside the car I hear the "detonation" better, then outside even with open hood. The Ex-pipe and muffler are ok. With RPM increasing the exhaust sounds and engine works let's say "harder". I have no idea what to test more.
    McNick (UA)

  6. #6

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    did you check your spark wires? spark plugs?
    i have accel coil and i used to have simular detonation problems when i got my new car. i replaced the stock coil with Accel and it runs like a champ.
    any coil would work. it doesn't have to be accel. it can be MSD, Holley, or any other generic ones. you can even use the ones from Lada, Gaz, or any other russian cars.
    just get another distributor, modify the ends and if that doesn't work, you can go back to stock coil with another distributor.
    when was the last time you cleaned your injectors? what about your TB?

    i am on ICQ all the time. if you feel like talking hit me up, 32077395.
    Alex.

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