More 5speed swap questions

**sporkHSP** · 05-19-2004, 01:44 PM

YES I HAVE READ THE HOW-TO!!! alright, i was all set untill i read a few threads last night that made it sound tons harder than the how-to makes it out to be... anyway, the how to doesnt say anything about a new starter or give any clear directions about how everything is set up, and i was wondering about that. Do i need the 5speed starter, and is the speedometer linkage the same, im kind of confused now about alot of the stuff that is involved... if someone that has done this could set me straight i would really appreciate it! thanks guys

oh, it would be cool if we could talk on AIM if possible im HomelessSpork on there....

**Strugglebucket** · 05-19-2004, 02:22 PM

Yes, you need the 5-speed starter or at least the front piece that mounts to the transmission housing. The speedo linkage is the same.

Some other things:
ENGINE MOUNTS- Upper: brackets same, dogbone different
Lower: bracket same, rubber different
Rear(important!): different bracket

The other mounts don't involve the transmission so you don't have to worry about them. Also, the flywheel bolts are different(longer) and the flywheel dust shield is different if you don't already have it. Oh, and have fun with the pedals 'cause they're probably the most difficult part.

**sporkHSP** · 05-19-2004, 02:25 PM

i was looking at the pedals today and afew days ago, i will be going to the junkyard tomorrow to practice, there are plenty 3geez there both auto and manual, so i will be dismantalling both to prepare for the swap...
are the brackets welded to the car different on the lower one, or is it a different piece to link them to the tranny?

**Strugglebucket** · 05-19-2004, 02:36 PM

Different piece to link them to the tranny.
Good luck practicing! I hope you are a determined contortionist. I've found it helps if you unbolt the fuse box so you can move it around some.

**sporkHSP** · 05-19-2004, 02:42 PM

the cars are jacked up already, i will be moving tons of stuff around untill i start to figure out the fastest way to pull all of it

**cdscowboy** · 05-20-2004, 12:18 AM

You might take out the driver's seat so you can get in there easier to put the pedals in. BITESIZE did that...not that he really needed too, but it made for more room! I didn't have the patience to take mine out, so I just haggled around in there.

Oh, make sure you ground that wire for the key release, otherwise you won't be able to get the key out once you turn it :P I think it's the green w/white wire, but dont' quote me on that one.

P.S. Anyone know the best way to hook up the reverse light???

**AccordEpicenter** · 05-20-2004, 07:51 AM

i didnt but you will need to drop the steering column

**HostileJava** · 05-20-2004, 08:46 AM

I'm going to pick parts off of a good accord this Sat so if someone who's done it could compile a list of what is needed besides what's in the FAQ that would be great.

**BITESIZE** · 06-15-2004, 08:33 PM

[QUOTE=cdscowboy]You might take out the driver's seat so you can get in there easier to put the pedals in. BITESIZE did that...not that he really needed too, but it made for more room! I didn't have the patience to take mine out, so I just haggled around in there.

QUOTE]

LMAO...Being small does come in handy!

**Strugglebucket** · 06-16-2004, 03:37 AM

Hey, speaking of what's needed besides what's in the faq, there are another two wires that go to the auto shifter harness that you need to jump so that your key won't get locked in the ignition. I believe it is the pink wire and the black wire if I remember correctly. BTW my car's an '89 lxi so this may or may not apply to all models.
When I went to take my key out the first time after doing the swap I was like WTF?!, give it back damnit!! Then I found that if I disconnected the battery it would release the key, sooo I guesse it's some kind of safety switch that only lets you take the key out when the auto shifter is in park.

Oh, and the wires that need to be wired to the to the two wires on the manual transmission are on the same harness, yellow, and green/w black stripe. Actually there are two green/w black stripe wires on the harness; if you want to be sure use a tester for continuity on the pins of the harness when the auto shifter is in reverse.

**ICEMAN707** · 06-16-2004, 04:24 AM

so what you guys are saying is: jump the pink wire with the black wire on the auto harness....connect the yellow and green/black wires on the auto harness to the matching yellow and green/black wires on the manual tranny? that should make key release and reverse lights work? how about the clutch safety switch on the clutch pedal? how do you get that to work? how about cruise control?

basics on parts: manual rear tranny mount and dogbone, manual ECU, shift linkage, starter, clutch cable, driver axle, new clutch and resurfaced flywheel, manual instrument cluster, shift rod and knob/boot/bracket assembly, hmm anything else i'm missing?

***Vinny*** · 06-16-2004, 05:29 AM

Don't think ya need the ECU ice

**sporkHSP** · 06-16-2004, 10:27 PM

the how to s say the EFI models need the ecu's...

**Strugglebucket** · 06-16-2004, 10:41 PM

The yellow and green/black wires go to the only two wires on the manual transmission. I don't remember if they were color coded or just black but it doesn't matter which wire goes to which wire.
The cruise control's cable will hook up to the little arm on the manual pedal bracket just the same way it hooked up to the auto one. Now, I connected both the switches on the clutch pedal bracket to their respective harnesses and I found that the one that disengages the cruise works, but the one that is supposed to only let the car start with the clutch in doesn't work. Maybe the switch is bad, maybe it's because I'm still using the auto ecu, but it's not a big deal IMO.
Oh and ICEMAN707, don't forget the pedals.