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Thread: Idle problems after vaccum line removal HELP!

  1. #1
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    Idle problems after vaccum line removal HELP!

    hey guys, I just got done removing the vaccum lines on my 89 accord dx, now ever since I did that it idles really rough until I revv to 2500 rpms and then it smoothes out alot but is still quite choppy. I guess what Im asking is did I do something wrong when I removed the vaccum lines? or could it be something else, Im trying to sell the car and everybody that sees the vaccum lines removed says it causes nothing but problems in cold weather, is this true? I also removed the choke plate to keep it from idling high when it warms up is that gonna cause a problem in the winter? Please help guys I am stuck on this one and need to get it figured out so any help would be greatly appreciated thanks



  2. #2

    A20A1's Avatar
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    yes, it will cause problems... if you look at the how to it shows you how to keep the choke operational.

    What exactly did you do?
    Which vacuum Diagram did you look at? Provide link and post #
    Did you leave the vacuum secondary intact?

    It shounds like you messed it up... and I'm not sure if it's a misrouted vacuum line... or missing vacuum line or a vacuum leak or the posibility that the car wasn't fully warmed up when you tested the car.
    - llia


  3. #3

    k-roy's Avatar
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    Put the choke back in, its a good thing. I went through 2 Ohio winters with this done and all I had to do was baby it a little untill it was warmed up. I had to tap on the gas for 2-3 minutes, then wait a few more to warm up all the way. After that it was smoothe sailing. It sounds like either you have a vacuum leak or you need to re-tune the carb for these settings. Check for leaks first by spraying carb cleaner on what vacuum lines are left along with all the caps. If you notice your idle raises up when you spray it on a certain spot then there is a leak. If all that checks out then tweak with the carb a little according to the carb tuning thread in the howto section.

    When I did this I also adjusted my valves, advanced the timing a little bit and added an aftermarket coil. Now I HAVE to run at least 91 octane or my car will play this little game I call "Fuck you Kevin" and start missfiring, pinging and it will even blow a vacuum cap here and there. Oh well at least I still get better mileage than most people so the cost differance in gas does not bother me at all.
    ------------------

  4. #4

    A20A1's Avatar
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    https://www.3geez.com/showpost.php?p=354339&postcount=4
    that was the most recent update... I added more text to help in problem solving.
    - llia


  5. #5
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    hey guys, Im pretty sure I used sheperd79's how to for the vaccum removal, but Im not sure because I cant open up the link to it and I threw away the printed one I had. anyway, I was told by a guy today that I need to put on a new carb because I tipped it upside down when I was taking the stuff off for the vaccume removal. Is this a possability? could this be causing the rough Idle?? I am going to check for vaccum leaks tommorrow and I will let you know what happens with that. thanks for all the help I really need to get this figured out soon.

  6. #6

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    since you flipped the carb upside down, it is a chance you fucked the carb.
    i have never had any problems with my carbs. i fliped the million times and they always run smooth.
    something is still wrong.
    can you take some pictures of your carb and intake manifold and hole engine bay.
    Alex.

  7. #7

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Flipping the carb won't do a thing... just make sure that if you flip the carb and haven't rebuilt the carb, then you should remove the top hat and clean the carb passages out really good, then replace the top hat gasket and reinstall the top hat making sure the float valve works right... flip the ignition switch a few times to fill the float bowl then, start the car, warm the car up till it's hot and then check the float level.
    - llia


  8. #8
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    Thanks for the info guys, but Im not a carb guy so Im not really sure what you mean by taking off the tophat. as far as taking pictures of my engine bay I can sure do that whenever, just let me know whaere to send them or how to post them on this thread. Im getting really irritated with this whole thing, this is my second 3gee and I had no problems whatsoever with the first one and I left the vaccume lines intact, I WAS thinking about putting all the vaccume lines back in but it looks like WAY too much work. I have tested the car 3 or 4 times now and let it run for at least 20 min to a half hour so I know its warm but still rough idle. I really appreciate all the help here guys I love my 3gee but its getting annoying lol thanks for hanging in there with me guys I know I can be pretty dumb sometimes but hey you gotta learn the stuff somehow right thanks again

  9. #9
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    Ok here goes guys Im gonna try to load a pic of my engine bay for you, if it doesnt work Ill have to try again but if it does here it is I have more pics if you need to see them.http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...ption=dsc01302

  10. #10
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    ok I guess that works so here are the other 4 I took, Hopefully this helps and if you need more pics of a certain area just let me know and Ill get em up here.http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...ption=dsc01299

  11. #11

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    which manual did you follow?
    because i can see a few problems right away. it looks like you didn't connect the choke. which means it is probably closed.
    Alex.

  12. #12
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    Im not sure exactly which how-to I followed but it was from this websight, I didnt do anything with the choke exept take off the electric choke assy. and right now I have no choke plate in the carb, I took it out so the car wouldnt idle hight when it warms up. keep me posted as to what I did wrong and hopefully we can get this all figured out thanks again

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