OBX header on Ebay

[86-lxi]

Not sure if these are new but they look pretty sweet....stainless 4 into 1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...:en#vi-content

[MessyHonda]

must be a new header but they look alright. i guess they are the SS header knock offs

[lostforawhile]

must be a new header but they look alright. i guess they are the SS header knock offs

they sure look better then space shitter

[carotman]

Looks pretty decent.

I'm not sure about the 4-1 design!

[knifemind]

I already picked one up. You can check out the thread on Prelude Power.

http://preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337284

[labeledsk8r]

doesnt look bad for the money, dunno how i feel about 4-1 design as even the 4-2-1 (wich i could instal in peices) was a bit of a pain to get in there. its amazeing how a new part can come out for a car thats so damn old lol

[Civic Accord Honda]

about god damn time we got some goodies!

[InAccordance]

man i hope they dont sell out, wife is supposed to get me those for my birthday!
got to love a woman who buys you car parts

[Nafs Asdf]

I noticed they have a header for the b20a too, too bad it's for the prelude ones... I wonder how hard it would be to modify it to fit the accord, I'm guessing it's just the bend that's different with the prelude egine leaning backwards.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-H...item335eab293c

[2ndGenGuy]

I think Roodoo modified one. Might have been an H22 header though...

[canadian357]

On the Mazda forum I'm on the OBX headers are pretty common for anyone who doesn't wanna spend upwards of $700 for the AWR. Haven't seen any complaints, good deal for the money.

[itzdave]

i might buy one when i get back home, my pacesetter is about 80% rust now...

[dustinksmith]

i always heard obx was known for some pretty bad weld jobs... though that might have been early in their years idk. but they look nice.

[Christofur]

i might buy one when i get back home, my pacesetter is about 80% rust now...

There is always this to help stop the rust from even starting
http://www.por15.com/BLACK-VELVET/productinfo/BVG/

[hammer3rd]

What is wrong with a 4 into 1 header?

[86-lxi]

What is wrong with a 4 into 1 header?

I'd assume it's bad for low and midrange power if you're more or less stock, it'd be good for a fully built motor. I'm thinking of buying one anyway eventually I got to get my suspension up to par before I can go any faster.

[markmdz89hatch]

I'd assume it's bad for low and midrange power if you're more or less stock, it'd be good for a fully built motor. I'm thinking of buying one anyway eventually I got to get my suspension up to par before I can go any faster.

Actually if memory serves me, the 4-1 design makes for a steeper torque curve early on, but you sacrifice some hp for the low end grunt. The 4-2-1 is what DC used, as do many of the other mfg's out there because it's the best all around design that will give you a decent increase in both tq and hp. Then there's the ultra-long primary 4-1 (some designs called spaghetti-headers) that are decent for tq and you still get a solid hp.

Think about the design of most turbo mani's. Ultra-short 4-1. Done for a few reasons:

1. Space for the turbo
2. A turbo motor makes shitty power (relative to on boost) before it spools, so a mani that allows tons of flow (for the turbo) but makes a pretty steep and early tq curve will give it a teeny bit more early grunt to make it.

[markmdz89hatch]

on that design (just looked at it) I wouldn't be surprised if S&S sold the jig to OBX because that looks nearly identical to the S&S header that use to be available to us (arguably still is).

Slip fit on the primarys means it's easier to install, but you might get some leakage. Just a part of it to be aware of, that's all.

Ball-socket for the joint (same as S&S and Pacesetter) instead of the flex/bellows like DC. The socket joint lasts longer than the bellows, but tends to put a little more stress on the rest of the exhaust system due to how stiff it is compared to the bellows.

Either way, I like this header. The longer primary will be more like the tq and hp curves of the DC and P/S 4-2-1, and I'd prefer a shorter primary with a 2.25" collector, but for the $$ it's well worth a shot.

[A20A1]

Shoot they come out with a 4-1 after I made my own and for only $170 on e-bay.
I would have bought them.
As for the 2" collector pipe, there may be some options other then simply cutting it off and replacing it with 2.25"
1) I could use it as a choke tapered into a 2.25"
2) Stepped the 2" to a 2.25"
3) Set in the 2" pipe 1/2" past the beginning of the 2.25" pipe