Looking at gettin another 3gee. needs fuel pump. wondering how big of a pain it would be.
Drew
Looking at gettin another 3gee. needs fuel pump. wondering how big of a pain it would be.
Drew
3rd Gen Accord Shirts and Stuff
Some of my Drawings
85 IROC Z28,TPI 355ci,700r4, 9.4:1 Aluminum pistons, COMP CAMS street/strip hyd roller cam, HYE TECH ported/polished heads, HOOKER Longtubes, Full 3 inch exaust NO Cat, TPIS alum fuel pressure reg, ACCEL distributor, custom programed chip from Performance Resource, Competition Engineering shocks. 10/90 front 50/50 back. Eibach drag springs up front. Auburn posi. SLP cold air induction and airfoil.batt relocated w/ kill switch.Still on street tires (Kuhmos all around)SOLD
87 IROC Z28, TPI 350ci, 700R4, 3.42 Posi, 4 wheel disk, Completely Stock (Wrecked)
1987 LXi 2.0 auto
the only pain in the ass is the price of the pump. Just fold down the rear seat and pull up the rear carpet and there is an axcess panel on the drivers side to get to the pump. Take you around 30-60 mins.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
its easy on the 3g.... you dont even need to drop the tank .... check ebay for a pump ....i just bought a high volume pump for my turbo civic and it was only 90 bucks
Jay
anything i need to do before pulling it, i guess disconnect batt, and start yankin lol.
3rd Gen Accord Shirts and Stuff
Some of my Drawings
85 IROC Z28,TPI 355ci,700r4, 9.4:1 Aluminum pistons, COMP CAMS street/strip hyd roller cam, HYE TECH ported/polished heads, HOOKER Longtubes, Full 3 inch exaust NO Cat, TPIS alum fuel pressure reg, ACCEL distributor, custom programed chip from Performance Resource, Competition Engineering shocks. 10/90 front 50/50 back. Eibach drag springs up front. Auburn posi. SLP cold air induction and airfoil.batt relocated w/ kill switch.Still on street tires (Kuhmos all around)SOLD
87 IROC Z28, TPI 350ci, 700R4, 3.42 Posi, 4 wheel disk, Completely Stock (Wrecked)
1987 LXi 2.0 auto
any way of testing fuel pump to see if working?...i guess disconnect a line, and when turnin over if it pumps gas?
3rd Gen Accord Shirts and Stuff
Some of my Drawings
85 IROC Z28,TPI 355ci,700r4, 9.4:1 Aluminum pistons, COMP CAMS street/strip hyd roller cam, HYE TECH ported/polished heads, HOOKER Longtubes, Full 3 inch exaust NO Cat, TPIS alum fuel pressure reg, ACCEL distributor, custom programed chip from Performance Resource, Competition Engineering shocks. 10/90 front 50/50 back. Eibach drag springs up front. Auburn posi. SLP cold air induction and airfoil.batt relocated w/ kill switch.Still on street tires (Kuhmos all around)SOLD
87 IROC Z28, TPI 350ci, 700R4, 3.42 Posi, 4 wheel disk, Completely Stock (Wrecked)
1987 LXi 2.0 auto
also you have to remember that our cars have that stupid "main relay problem" in that if its a hot day the main relay will not allow the fuel pump to activate, i have only heard of it being an intermettent problem but i suppose its possible that it could break completely, do a search on that and do the soldering to "fix it", if thats your problem, free is a whole lot cheaper than how much its gonna cost otherwise, i know oem fuel pumps ~$300, i would go junkyard otherwise
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
yea it trys turning over, but seems to get no fuel. I cant find specific threads on this. jsut random stuff.
3rd Gen Accord Shirts and Stuff
Some of my Drawings
85 IROC Z28,TPI 355ci,700r4, 9.4:1 Aluminum pistons, COMP CAMS street/strip hyd roller cam, HYE TECH ported/polished heads, HOOKER Longtubes, Full 3 inch exaust NO Cat, TPIS alum fuel pressure reg, ACCEL distributor, custom programed chip from Performance Resource, Competition Engineering shocks. 10/90 front 50/50 back. Eibach drag springs up front. Auburn posi. SLP cold air induction and airfoil.batt relocated w/ kill switch.Still on street tires (Kuhmos all around)SOLD
87 IROC Z28, TPI 350ci, 700R4, 3.42 Posi, 4 wheel disk, Completely Stock (Wrecked)
1987 LXi 2.0 auto
I have da same problem with my 89 LX-i Coupe.. On a hot day it refuses 2 start til I let it cool down for a few or wut ever... can n e one tell me bout dat relay thingy and let me know how to fix the problem, or possibly sending me a link on how 2 fix it? thanks guyz, lataz
I will alwayz drive my 3rd gen Accord, ya'll will neva c me driving a 4 door Ford.. lol
The easy way to tell if the pump is working is to have a friend help out.
Behind the rear seat on the drivers side is a round cover. Pry that off and thats where the pump asselbly pulls out vertically. To test to see if its workinghave a buddy turn the key 2 clicks, you should hear a humming, if you don't hear it then the pump is either dead or there is a electrical issue. The howto section explains the main relay problem, thats only if its PGMFI though. The only other 2 things is a problem in the wiring (not likely) or the relay is dead. Try swapping the headlight and fuel pump relay just to be sure.
The fuel pump on my carb was around $40 or $50. The PGMFI one is 2 to 3 times that. Also be sure to replace the filter(s) while you are at it.
If you do replace the pump roll down the windows, pop open the trunk/hatch and open all the doors and sunroof so you get as much airflow as possible so fumes do not fill up the cabin. And disconnect the battery just to be on the safe side. Don't freaking take a smoke break till the job is done. On top of the pump assembly there should be a few hoses and a harness. When you remove the bolts and pull up on the pump it will not come strait out, you gotta twist and angle it a little, nothing anyone with a minimun IQ of 60 could not figure out.
Then its just a matter of taking off the old pump and putting the new one on. Make sure to install the prefilter on the end of the pump pickup.
Good luck!
Last edited by k-roy; 06-12-2004 at 09:04 PM.
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sweet
ill have to check it
3rd Gen Accord Shirts and Stuff
Some of my Drawings
85 IROC Z28,TPI 355ci,700r4, 9.4:1 Aluminum pistons, COMP CAMS street/strip hyd roller cam, HYE TECH ported/polished heads, HOOKER Longtubes, Full 3 inch exaust NO Cat, TPIS alum fuel pressure reg, ACCEL distributor, custom programed chip from Performance Resource, Competition Engineering shocks. 10/90 front 50/50 back. Eibach drag springs up front. Auburn posi. SLP cold air induction and airfoil.batt relocated w/ kill switch.Still on street tires (Kuhmos all around)SOLD
87 IROC Z28, TPI 350ci, 700R4, 3.42 Posi, 4 wheel disk, Completely Stock (Wrecked)
1987 LXi 2.0 auto
i can do it in less than 20 min
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
ahhh..don't get any of the black crap on your hands, it'sasty...and gas makes is runny..it's real nasty...can I say that again...real nasty. Big plastic bag to stuff the tank hole when the pump is out...and a big ass CO-2 fire bottle are needed. Whatever you do, do not do the job indoors..it's a major fire risk on this car to change the pump..don't cheap out..get a new pump AND screen.
In my experience, better to change a questionable pump..towing is mightly expensive these days
heh i can agre about that black stuff around the sides of the cap, holy crap i got that on my arm hairs and it wouldnt come off, it gets stuck on everything too, just try to avoid it!
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
see..I wasn't kiding was I? I've done a few fuel pumps in my day..btw..go for the entire assembly, some places sell just a loose pump and you have to wire it..I'm not real keen on splicing fuel pump wires that sit in a pool of gasoline ( yeah yeah I know it's safe) the whole bracket and all is about $20 more..but the plus is that you don't leave your tank hole exposed for more then a few seconds as you slide in the new pump assembly.Originally Posted by johnwc723
Don't forget the clamps...
ya its a 5minute job. i just changed mine for my fi i got it for $50 not to bad.
You hate me, like I care.
Ok I am wondering about the main relay problem that a few of u have discussed... where can I find that thread about the how-to section to fix it, or can someone be willing to explain this in detail for me... please help me, it gets agrivating when I drive the the car just dies on me for awhile. I just want to be able to fix it... I know its not the fuel pump itself, because I hear the humming noise, so its got to be the relay problem you guys are talking about... Well thanks to everyone who is willing to help me out on this one, and thanks 2 everyone who has replied to give me a pin point as to what is the problem.. Thanks, Lataz
I will alwayz drive my 3rd gen Accord, ya'll will neva c me driving a 4 door Ford.. lol
uhh... http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/elec...main-relay.htm
its in the FAQ section, i just did mine, just take out that little box thing under the wheel and look in there wiht a light, its on the left and its red with a white plug going into it, just use ~15watt iron and head up all the contacts and maybe put a little more solder on it, really easy
Check out pictures of my car HERE
"drop a 150 shot of NOS sticker on that bad boy and you can run 8s" -portugalfocus
K well is there supposed 2 be two black relays in that area? cuz I only have one in the back of trhe fuse box under the stearing wheel section where the fuse box is located... it looks like I'm missing one of the relays..
I will alwayz drive my 3rd gen Accord, ya'll will neva c me driving a 4 door Ford.. lol
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