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Thread: 89 SEi - starting problems (AFTER new main relay)

  1. #1
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    Unhappy 89 SEi - starting problems (AFTER new main relay)

    Well I am out of ideas.

    I replaced the main relay finally, as well as flushing the radiator, changing the oil, replacing the plugs with some NGK-R's, some decent plug wires, got a deal on a direct Dragon intake, put that on there.

    It still won't start if the engine has ANY temperature at all. I just drove to QuikTrip on my way to work, and it wouldn't start back up again. It did it earlier today as well when I went to get something to eat, luckily it was like a block away from home so I just walked home, and sure enough, it started right up an hour later.

    This is especially weird because after I put it in, I deliberately tested this by driving it a block, stopping, turning it off, and restarting it, and it passed with flying colors for a couple days. Then after I filled it up, the engine light came on, I drove home to work, next time I started it up it was gone. And it worked fine again yesterday.

    But today, sure enough, it's hot and sticky, and it won't friggin start.

    And I am out of ideas.

    hel;p



  2. #2
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    I should add it's an A20A3, automatic, 150k

    The annoying thing about this is I know it's something electrical because it runs like a champ now and after whatever is doing this goes away, it starts up before it even finishs turning over, so it's not the starter or ignitor.

    Also, it is attempting to turn over, just isn't getting any gas. But I can hear the fuel pump turn on when I turn the key. Should I hear it continuously after I press the gas?

    Everything points to the main relay but I JUST replaced it ARGGGH.
    Last edited by themendios; 06-17-2004 at 08:31 PM.

  3. #3
    Banned cruznz's Avatar
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    did you check for codes, seeing as the engine light came on

  4. #4

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    Ok next time it does that and you get the check engine light do this:
    Howto check engine codes
    I am willing to bet that you got a bad sensor.
    Last edited by k-roy; 06-18-2004 at 03:08 AM.
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  5. #5

    Vinny's Avatar
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    I'm thinking you may get a code 6 if you check them for the ECT (engine coolant sitch) or TW switch.....same switch just different names. That thing can cause some pretty odd problems when it goes bad

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    Yea that's what I was looking at.

    Where is this located on an A20A3? I was looking at various threads about the TW/ECT switch, and they all say on the thermostat housing, but Honda says it's elsewhere.

    Also, I would have checked for codes, since Advance does the computer for free, but the engine light hasn't been on in a few days.

  7. #7

    Vinny's Avatar
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    look under the drivers seat at the ECU. Poke your head under the seat from the back looking forward. There should be a small door on the housing. It will hold the last fault until its reset. You should be able to tell what the CEL (check Engine light) was on for. Count the times it blinks continuously before it pauses and blinks again. Codes are explained Here and Here

    The ECT sensor is on top of the thermostat housing next to the aux fan switch on the 88-89 US accords. I believe its a black (or possibly blue) connector on the sensor. I do know of the 2 its the one closest to the head

  8. #8

    k-roy's Avatar
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    Advance can not hook it up to their computer to scan for a code, thats something for newer cars with on board diagnostics. You gotta look at the ecu itself under the drivers seat and count the blinks of the red led.
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  9. #9
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    Ok, Honda said that it was a TW sensor, aka ECT sensor, when I said I needed an ECT sensor, also known as a TW sensor. But the one they gave me goes underneath the intake manifold, on the back end of the engine, I'll have to put it on ramps to get to it.

    Is this right?? The thermostat housing is on the complete other side of the engine from there. If not, what the hell did they just sell me?

    Also, on the thermostat housing, there are 2 small connectors, nothing like what I have, they're like electrical sockets. Probably need changed because the insulation is cracked and shitty. What are these then if not the TW sensor and the fan sensor?

    Also, I'm going off of their printout of part # and how they connect to each other when they get the parts for where it goes.

    So confused, I know so very little about sensors and shit and this is just more confusing.
    Last edited by themendios; 06-18-2004 at 08:15 PM.

  10. #10
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    Also, thanks for all the help, I'll check the ECU tomorrow.

    I left my key over at my friend's house when the sucker wouldn't start in case he felt like looking at it (doing mechanic work for free iotw), and he lost the fucker, and all I have now is the valet key which doesn't work so well, and I can't get the ignition to turn now lol

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