$400 dollars later and I have a new clutch/flywheel in the old 86 cord. Wow what a difference! that $400 sure did kill me though. Mark one thing off my list!
I guess it needs to broke in though, b/c it is a little strong, like it wants to spring my foot into my chest. Is there any way to adjust how high or low the clutch releases?
"I'll head back to the neverland ranch with a peanut butter jelly chiken tuna sandwhich.."
Find where the clutch cable goes to the tranny. Up a little bit is where it hooks onto a braket. You'll see a knob there. Turning the knob will adjust it. Also the clutch does need broken in, 400 miles usually does it. Did you install the clutch yourself or take it somewhere?
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
The clutch cable should be adjusted so that there is about a quarter inch of free movement before the cable starts moving the release arm. This adjustment can affect where in the pedal's movement the clutch engages, but should be set for the correct free-play, not the engagement position that you like.
Mike
Good deal Rob. I forgot to show ya where the adjustment was on it when I met up with you. My bad. Glad you got that fixed. Keep up the good work on the car
$400 may sound a lot to a lot of us, but it isn't bad at all for a new clutch and flywheel. But to be safe, I'd say drive it for like 500 miles for it to break in.
Originally Posted by k-roy
I had a shop take care of it for me.
Next thing to do is the CV's! what fun. I watched the mechanic do it on a 3g (pure coincidental) and It looked easy as hell, I am seriously thinking about tackling this one on my own. The mechanic told me 290 for both (parts/labor), I can get the axles for about 100 for both and my labor would be free. He just swung the whole brake assembly out of the way and then he stuck a screwdriver inbetween the axle and the ?tranny? and kinda pryed it out and then slipped the howle thing out and slid the new one back in. Seems like it shouldnt be too hard to do, but then again he has air tools , and I dont.
As far as the right amount of free play, I have no idea what it should be like since the clutch was bad when I bought the car.
"I'll head back to the neverland ranch with a peanut butter jelly chiken tuna sandwhich.."
They should have checked it when they installed everything. The adjustment was FAIRLY close when I looked at in on Saturday. It doesnt change with a new clutch setup. I've done my share and never really had to dick with them afterwards. They had to pull the tranny to change the clutch so they also had to disconnect the cable, therefore.....in theory.....it should have been adjusted when they put it back on the tranny side. If you question it go back and ask them how to adjust it
Get the nut off the end of the axle without an air gun can be a royal whore.
No projects. Life consumes my time and money.
I have a buddy that has a low powered setup @ his house, I am gonna get him to "help" me with this project. It would also be a good time to check to see whether his Civic rotors will fit on my cord.
"I'll head back to the neverland ranch with a peanut butter jelly chiken tuna sandwhich.."
and im guessing you are going to do your own alignment also after doing the axles? lol.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
shit no way
they arent going to align anything when the do it @ the shop either
"I'll head back to the neverland ranch with a peanut butter jelly chiken tuna sandwhich.."
maybe if you have any friends that work at a shop that does alignments, you could ge the hook up? i dunno. i was going to say, i got my axles done a few years ago at pepboy's for about $280, but i dont think they did the alignment either. what a rip off, doing axles and not an alignment. pretty much doing a half ass job dont ya think?
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
well i dont know. An alignment is something seperate. I dont think its necessary especially since when I get new wheels/tires I am going to get one done it wont really matter.
"I'll head back to the neverland ranch with a peanut butter jelly chiken tuna sandwhich.."
no, you don't move any of the suspension components out of adjustment when you replace your axle, therefore, you really don't need an alignment done after the job
oic, i thought you had to do something to the steering rack their ends or something like that. good to hear that because one of my axles is probley going to go. its clicking sometimes when i turn again like it used to with the bad axles. its under warrenty, so i'm not too worried. that shouldnt happen over 2 or 3 years though.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
yeah mine click pretty bad, but only when you turn them all the way right or left. I have seen/heard some that clicked constantly no matter which way or how far you turned them.
I read the how-to and it looks like I can tackle this CV thing. Save my-self about 200 bucks.
"I'll head back to the neverland ranch with a peanut butter jelly chiken tuna sandwhich.."
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