How to make custom engine mounts
Intro
As we all know our A20A3 lacks power and the few aftermarket stuff for it barely do much to improve performance. A good choice would be the JDM B20A but it lacks both US factory and aftermarket support. You are better off with the A20A3 cus it has US factory support at least. If something with the JDM B20A should break, you are stuck with the risk of not being able to use the car for a long time, or worse...never...since this engine is old and essential new parts like timing belt and cyl. head and drivetrain parts would be scarce especially in Japan where they change cars and car engines every 40,000 miles due to their Sha-Ken law. So unless you are buying thousands of dollars in parts now for the JDM B20A to last you a lifetime with the car, the only solution would be a newer engine swap or stick with the A20A3 with turbo. B-series Placeracing mounts cost an arm and a leg ($700). You could buy another good used engine for the price of the mounts. Unfortunately they are the only option for mounts we have. So I was thinking, why not use the old school hot rodder's trick for making custom engine mounts? I found this great simple how-to for making metal adaptor plates for using factory engine mounts and I found it to be extremely simple and effective and therefore very achievable by the backyard enthusiast with some welding skills:
The Stock Mount
First choose the rubber mounts which you will use. You may use what comes with the new engine OR what was on the old engine. The simpler the better. I would use the new B series engine's mounts cus that would open up a whole new series of B-series swaps for you in the future.
HERE'S THE HOW TO:
(note: I didn't write this BTW, so don't ask me how this works)
This info is courtesy of [email protected]
Position the Engine
Using a crane or chain block or whatever you can rig up drop the engine and gearbox into the bay. Try and use the original gearbox crossmember position and see if the engine fits in. If not then ignore the gearbox position because it has to be changed anyway and concentrate only on the engine. Measure the center of the car's engine bay and place a mark on the swaybar or something to line the center of the crank up with. Its not entirely necessary to have it dead on center but the closer the better.
Sit it as far back as you can with enough clearance for heater hoses and stuff. Drop it as low as possible without leaving the sump hanging down too low in a vulnerable position. Leave enough room above the crossmember and when you have it right tie it in position with some rope or something. Maybe rest it on some wood or whatever you have lying around. Then check the steering linkages for clearance at full lock and all suspension components. When you are satisfied with the position its now time to move on to the next step.
The Template
Choose your steel size. I used 6mm steel as it is very strong but still workable with simple backyard tools. Generally try to stay at least the same thickness as what was on the engine before. When you have your steel size get some MDF the same thickness or as close as you can get. It only comes in 3mm, 6mm, 9mm, 12mm etc. Bolt the rubber block to the mount in the position that you want it to finish up. Bolt the old mounts to the engine and see of any part of them can still be used. If not than move on ahead.
You will then have to make a plate that bolts to the block. use the existing mount holes if necessary or whatever is in line with the mount on the car. Cut out a shape of MDF and trim it untill it is a neat fit, drill the holes in it and bolt it to the block. Now maybe your old mounts will weld to this plate or some more custom work is necessary. Make a plate out od MDF that bolts to the rubber block and is in line with the plate on the engine. Hopefully it will extend out evenly on either side of the rubber block but if no thats still ok.
Now we assume the old mounts are useless so all you have to do is make some more plates out of MDF that fit in between the engine block plate and the rubber block plate. Try and get one on either side of the rubber block to even out the load. Remeber to leave access to the bolts holding the plate to the engine and the plate to the rubber mount. Once you have at least two plates made up you can now take it all off and proceed to the next step.
The Mounts
Work out the minimum width steel that you can use to make the plates. Go buy some steel from the local steel merchants. As a guide I got 1m of 6mm X 130mm for $11 and 2m of 6mm X 75mm for $14. Trace the MDF shapes onto the steel and start cutting. I used a 100mm angle grinder and went through 4 cutting blades. There are easier ways but it really wasnt that difficult. When they are cut out, mark and drill the holes for the mounting plates.
Bolt it all up to the engine and car and see if it fits as before. Assuming it all lines up grap your welder and tack it into place with enough weld to keep it in shape while you remove it from the car. Take it off the car and weld up all joints thorougly. When done, let it cool and bolt it back up. It should be perfect but might need the holes drilled off centre a bit due to the distortion from the heat when welding. Once it fits nicely pull it off and paint it and then bolt it up again and you are halfway there!
Finishing off
Now that one is finished the engine should be held in position well and it is just a matter of repeating the procedure on the other side. Remember that the engine may drop a little when the mounts compress so you can lift the engine higher than you want it while measuring up.
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would be a lot cheaper the the placeracing stuff.
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