Carb problem?

[iron]

I've got an 87 LX 5sp that originally had a high idle issue every so often when in neutral. It would idle at around 2 grand. I had a main bearing go in the tranny and had it rebuilt. On getting the car back it would no longer idle after reaching operating temperatures. The shop that rebuilt the tranny overtightened the nuts holding the axles in and trashed the bearings. Got that taken care of and now the car randomly bucks and stutters while in gear. The best way I can describe it is its like what happens when a someone new to a clutch is trying to pull out w/o giving enough gas. It'll do it even at highway speeds. The shop that fixed the first one's mistake recommends a new carb because "no one in their right mind would rebuild a honda carb". Not an option due to financial contraints. I've got the kit and I'm going to give it a shot along with replacing both fuel filters. I'm a little hesitant as I've never rebuilt a carb. Can you guys recommend anything else I should be looking for before I tear this thing apart? I'm a little hesitant to do so as I've never rebuilt a carb and have been warned that a poor rebuild can leave me with more problems than I currently have.

Thanks in advance.

[k-roy]

"no one in their right mind would rebuild a honda carb".

Wow, some ignorant ass mechanic just verified what I allready know. I just knew I was loosing it. I would rather rebuild my Keihn than say a Quadrajet. Man I hate quadrajets.

Ok before you jump in head first and tear it all apart at least tweak with it a little. First change the 2 filters. One is next to the carb and the other one is inside of the passenger rear wheel. Then grab a can of carb cleaner and get it all nice and shiny on the inside and out. Remove the aircleaner assembly and look at the drivers side of the carb. What you need to do is look for the sight glass, make sure the fuel level is right in the middle. If its not try turning the screw on top, directly above it to get it at the proper level. If it starts to leak after that you gotta rebuild it. THen inspect every last inch of vacuum hose and make sure everything is connected, and that there is not cracks or rips in the lines. If there is then replace the problem sections. After that with the car running spray carb cleaner all over the hoses, if your idle raises then you have a leak. Next read and do this Howto turn a carb (thanx accord EX for that very useful info).

After all that if its still fucking up then you should rebuild it. Check the howto section, there is an article there that explains it very well.

Aww shit, I allmost forgot. It could just be your fuel pump dying, its verry common. Good news is its only like $50 and you can install it quickly yourself.

Oh and let me be the first on this site to say

[Michael Cote]

Also before you rebuild carb, check PCV and replace rotor button. Chiep processes of ilimination. Good luck, Mike

[iron]

[QUOTE=k-roy]Wow, some ignorant ass mechanic just verified what I allready know. I just knew I was loosing it. I would rather rebuild my Keihn than say a Quadrajet. Man I hate quadrajets.

Thanks, I'll definately use your suggested trouble shooting before plunging into a rebuild.
What I find hilarious is that the mechanic in question was yakking about "how it's not like you're dealing with a quadrajet, the honda carb's much more difficult to deal with" I picked up a distributor cap, button, plugs and wires as well, so I'll swap those out as well, before resigning myself to a rebuild. One more question though, is there anyway to check the fuel pumps performance or is it just a swap it out and try it situtation?

Thanks again.
Iron

[A20A1]

The carb itself is rather simple and compact... it's the emissions mumbo jumbo (Vacuum lines everywhere) that gets to people.

[iron]

Ok before you jump in head first and tear it all apart at least tweak with it a little. First.....

k-roy, you were right on the money with your suggestions. When I pulled the air cleaner and began checking out vacuum lines I found all sorts of problems. Couple of misrouted lines, a few that had cracked in hard to see places and a couple that were just plain off. All of this of course had to be behind the friggin carb so it was very interesting trying to trace/reconnect them. Replaced the plugs, wires, cap and button and hooked it all up right, though I'm sure there's leaks I've missed. Gave the carb a good shot of carb cleaner and tried it out.

Upshot is car still dies but not like it was, it had gotten to the point that it died 5 seconds after you let off the gas. The whole bucking, stuttering thing is history too. Now it seems to only stall out when applying the brakes and that takes a while to happen. I figure since the system is still leaking the vac assist on the brakes is dropping the vac enough to cause it to stall.

I've got the new vac line and I'll be replacing it and the fuel filters in the am.

I really appreciate the advice.
Iron