oh i just realized you guys may think i was mokking this thread. i wasnt it just popped into my head and i thought it would make some people laugh.so back to the disscusion at hand.
oh i just realized you guys may think i was mokking this thread. i wasnt it just popped into my head and i thought it would make some people laugh.so back to the disscusion at hand.
"i dont have friends anymore and my favorite hangout is the junkyard but damn it runs good".....by me. "i know i have not gotten laid in a while but trust me the blisters on my hands are from working on my car"...........by me.
i thought it was funny.
i haven't read every post in this thread, but i have some input on the idea involving air from the a/c system that gets fed into the intake. not very profitable i don't think. i've heard of this idea before, but i've never seen any results. this is why i don't think it would be a good idea...
first, an optimum a/c system blows about 35 degree air out the vents on max a/c (on recirculate). unless your car has had a recent recharge and been pressure tested and came out with good results, your a/c probably doesn't put out a temp this low now. but it sounds like a good temp for intake air. this puts strain on the engine, as was said in the first page i believe, so its kinda like robbing engine power to put cold air into the system hoping you'll gain more power. you just won't gain enough power to make it worthwhile. further, most older cars and some newer cars have a switch that cuts off the a/c compressor during WOT to offer a little extra power, especially on small displacement imports, such as the 3rd gen accord. so for racing and spirited driving purposes (if these cars have this switch, which i think they do... not sure tho), you won't be getting cold air at all into the intake. also, by doing this, your duct work leading to the throttle body will be insanely long, making throttle response real bad more than likely.
and as for that "front mount intake" resembling an intercooler, that doesn't provide very good gains either. it draws ambient temp air, but the air doesn't flow very well into the tube. the air comes in through radiator type fins, but then hits a solid metal wall (the back of the intercooler looking thing), which slows down air flow significantly. it finds its way into the tube (which is about 2-3 feet longer than a standard CAI tube, with much more bends to slow air flow), and finally makes its way to the throttle body. i'd say a short ram would have about the same performance gains as a front mount intake, and it wouldn't look like you have a turbo. i wouldn't want people thinking i had a turbo because i have an intercooler looking gizmo in my bumper, line up to race, and get smoked because they tried to match a race with a turbocharged car. that would be embarrassing.
Slower air builds up pressure, which is good for some low end as long as it builds before the carb throttle plates.. or TB.
However, it does have diminishing gains as rpms increase.
If you ever looked at some short rams on the market... they add a plenum area just before the TB. I assume they claim a gain in HP at like 3,600 rpm but fail to mention that at 6,000 rpm HP drops below other intakes without the plenum... thats simply my guess. I could be wrong.
Air has mass... let gravity give you a boost.
I would think the front mount style intake would be better suited if the box was placed over the intake manifold and air was rammed in thru a scoop... sure there are some sharp angles to traverse but If it's sealed properly the air could be forced in making the bends a minor setback to that of a front mount mounted in the bumper.
Water is the only problem, and no bypass valve would save you from injesting water when it's seeping in from above. So you'd have to get creative.
I'm against many short rams, they are too short and they suffer from not having an air horn or funnel shape to the inlet to help get rid of turbulence. They also change how quickly vacuum signals change when the throttle is opened because of the shortened tube length, this could effect the responsiveness of the motor if not compensated for.
On cold air they can get away with not having any air horns just because the length of the tubes help straiten the air, though adding one is always a plus
Many filters do not provide space to fit a horn. Some filters try to incorporate an air trumpet as a part of the rubber connector (more like a simple taper), but it's not as good as a horn which has a full cuve along the rim.
They also make open ended filters which are supposed to decrease turbulence, but I can't speak for those.
Carb guys have plenty of options since velocity stacks are common in domestic carb air filters... only you need to hood space and a way to adapt it to the carb. Or a domestic carb to star with
Back to Cold air...
You can get plenty of cold air to the stock carb thru modification of the stock air box along the rear wall of the box and a hole in the firewall tapping into the gutter below the windshield...
If you've ever run the interior without the air ducts you'll nottice you get a lot of air forced into the cabin. This is because the air hitting the windshiled is forced down as well as up. POS CARB utillized the pressured gutter to feed cold air to the stock carb air box... you need to of course make a hole in the firewall and the appropriate ducting work to direct the air to the sealed stock air box.
Water will be a problem again... but you wont have to worry about adding a hood scoop to the car if you don't like scoops.
- llia
very interesting idea. duct work going to the intake would be fairly short, and the possibility to draw in more air than a standard cai exists. a large funnel type pipe could be made going from the gutter to the back of the airbox. basically a velocity stack that collect air at the gutter. i think a small hole somewhere, maybe at the bottom of the airbox (before the filter) should be used to direct water down a small tube and out of the system.Originally Posted by A20A1
Interesting theory. I'm assuming you're increasing the pressure to the fuel in order to add more fuel to the extra volume of air induced by the hood scoop. I see two problems. One: the water trap is designed to catch any water before it reaches the float bowl. However you most also be concerned about the water going into the mouth of carburator. This can be just as much of a hinderance as actual water int he fuel.
Second problem: the area directly above the mouth of the carb will be a pocket of signicantly negative pressure. Caused by the engine sucking air into its cylinders. This negative pressure could created the opposite of the desired affect, actually drawing fuel FROM the float bowl. Your water trap could end up being full of fuel.
Yeah I was thinking you would have to up the fuel PSI along with the inscrease in air pressure.
The way the carb bowl is and the vents on it, I doubt any fuel will enter the float vent tube and go into the water trap. Just in case, the port into the water trap will be higher then the float bowl vents above the barrels, so any fuel coming out would favor and get sucked into the barrels.
I wonder if I could make an aluminum spacer below the top hat of the carb, to then build off of to make a box for the ram air.
It would require the float level be adjusted significantly to make up for the space, but it would cut out any of the leaks and be a good way to pressuize the entire carb.
All the unused brass vaccum ports will be soldered shut.
Only unsealed area would be the throttle shaft, but I doubt ram air would be great enough to create a leak there.
- llia
what about this iv'e seen people using intake gasket spacers that space the intake away from the motor. then u could run a seperate cooling system something small and light for just the intake then use the engine heat to warm the fuel up so that it can atonomize better. i think this would work for both carbed and fuely engines. just my thoughts.
Yup they sell a gasket and washer set on INLINEFOUR.COM. I think it was made by spoon. Anyways you'll need the one for the B16 or B18C5, then redril the holes as you would when you are adapting a B series intake manifold to the A20 head.
- llia
i was thinking of using the side air vent off a semi truck and mounting it between the windshield sprayers then running a cable inside the car to open and close it , this vent is a rectangle that is usually seen on cabover trucks it pops out the side near the door sorry i dont have a pic.
this would be a variable ram air i dont know what the under hood clearance is so i dont know if the underside would get in the way,or you could mount a scoop on it my company still makes fiberglass ones that are small i think we used them on the mid 70's sport nautiques i will dig one out and put dim's on here it looks like a mini ford scoop from the 60's
Let me ask you guys about this: For some reason, my 88 Accord blows quite a bit of particulate up into the breather. Maybe this is normal, but I removed my air filter and noticed that it had very light oil all over it. Now I am thinking that the mist is soaking the filter and choking my engine, because when I drive the car without the filter it runs really good. Replace the filter and it don't run good at all.
Now I am looking at this sketch and wondering just how necessary a standard air filter really is. I have this mesh type stuff that allows high amounts of air to enter the breather while filtering it at the same time. Is this a decent compromise and if not, HOW can I get the particulate oil to stop messing up my filter?
James
Keep your air filter on.
Clean out your valve cover.
Remove the valve cover, get some engine cleaner or some oil removing chemical and flush out the baffles and pockets in the roof of the valve cover, flush it out in both directions letting the oil drain out the PCV Filter hole and then go the other way and let the oil drain out the roof of the valve cover. Do that untill all the oil is gone.
Then make sure you flush out all the chemicals and reinstall the valve cover.
Replace the PCV Filter in the small box on the right side of the air cleaner.
This should limit how much oil gets trapped in the roof of the valve cover because it can drain more freely now that it's clean.
Also make sure your valve cover gasket is sealed.
Last edited by A20A1; 12-19-2005 at 11:44 AM.
- llia
I must admit that I wasn't too keen on ever removing it in the first place. I have removed the valve cover and cleaned it as you instructed. About the only thing I have not done is replce the PCV Filter with the correct one. I went to AutoZone and the guy there said they were out but that I could probably just use any of the same material that they are made from, so thats what I did.
I know it was wrong, and now I will have to replace my air filter for doing so. Oh well, it's just money, ha ha.
James
As soon as I can I will buy the CORRECT PCV Filter and a new air filter unless you guys think that I may be able to wash it out some how. Any ideas, cuz it's almost brand new.
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