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Thread: anyone know how to remove this???

  1. #1
    SEi User racerx's Avatar
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    anyone know how to remove this???

    hey, just taking the engine out today...
    we got a little caught on something: oil pressure sensor, or something.

    how can i remove it?



    www.stein-photo.com
    born to XLR8



  2. #2

    86LXItooFAST4me's Avatar
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    you cant roll that rubber intalation back to see whats under it?
    "Seriously, I have a half o' pack of Rolaids in my dipper" -Stewie (Family Guy)

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  3. #3
    SEi User racerx's Avatar
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    well, my buddies said they already tried.......
    if you want something done right...
    www.stein-photo.com
    born to XLR8

  4. #4

    HostileJava's Avatar
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    This should really be in general or Technical, you'll get more help there.

  5. #5
    2.0Si User Elijah's Avatar
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    sorry I was thinking of something else.

  6. #6
    SEi User racerx's Avatar
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    no go on prying.
    i used the claw side of a hammer and pryed until the engine moved...
    www.stein-photo.com
    born to XLR8

  7. #7

    86LXItooFAST4me's Avatar
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    what is that anyway the oil pressure switch?
    "Seriously, I have a half o' pack of Rolaids in my dipper" -Stewie (Family Guy)

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  8. #8

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    its hard plastic. as far as i remember, do you even have to remove it to get the motor out?

    try unscrewing it. i think its a screw in sensor. thats a hard plastic part of the sensor, not a rubber shield.
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  9. #9

    NXRacer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86LXItooFAST4me
    what is that anyway the oil pressure switch?
    its what tells the light on the dash to come on if you're low on oil. its what you'd connect to for an oil pressure gauge.
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  10. #10
    SEi User racerx's Avatar
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    we got it. it is hard plastic. my dad just yanked it out, the plastic broke in the middle, but oh well cuz we got a new oil pressure guage to use anyway.
    www.stein-photo.com
    born to XLR8

  11. #11

    86LXItooFAST4me's Avatar
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    yeah, its an oil pressure swith, go to or call a part storea nd ask to look at an oil pressure switch and look at the conection. that will tell you if its a screw on or push on or whatever. just a theory
    "Seriously, I have a half o' pack of Rolaids in my dipper" -Stewie (Family Guy)

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  12. #12

    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    You didn't have to remove it to take the engine out.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

  13. #13

    A20A1's Avatar
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    it should come off like a spark plug wire... it's just a metal clip to the top of the sensor post... I'll show you a pic with the wire removed... also you don't need to disconnect that wire to get the intake manifold off... you do however need to disconnect the part on the manifold that is holding the wire.

    edit:
    So why are you removing the motor again?
    Last edited by A20A1; 07-13-2004 at 05:03 PM.
    - llia


  14. #14
    LXi User '89AccordLX(Rus)'s Avatar
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    If you are still set on removing the plastic part, which was once a soft rubber boot, you will need a wide blade screwdriver. Insert the blade between the rubber and the flat surface on the oil filter base. Twist. Repeat in several places. It will either pop off, or crack and pop off. When I removed mine (with the intake manifold blocking access), it simply cracked and came right off. I reused it since it assumed its normal shape and sealed fine. Ideally you would replace the boot, but it would be tough to install a new one without cutting wires. Hope this helps ya.

    Edit: Looks like you already removed it.
    Last edited by '89AccordLX(Rus); 07-13-2004 at 05:49 PM.
    3axap.
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  15. #15

    SteveDX89's Avatar
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    Ewww, Fram oil filter.
    No projects. Life consumes my time and money.

  16. #16
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    If you are still set on removing the plastic part, which was once a soft rubber boot, you will need a wide blade screwdriver. Insert the blade between the rubber and the flat surface on the oil filter base. Twist. Repeat in several places. It will either pop off, or crack and pop off. When I removed mine (with the intake manifold blocking access), it simply cracked and came right off. I reused it since it assumed its normal shape and sealed fine. Ideally you would replace the boot, but it would be tough to install a new one without cutting wires. Hope this helps ya.
    Yea just break that fucker off... the boot normally always breaks, you have to to get it off. Just make sure when you put it back on it wont fall off easily, make sure the connector isnt fubar'd up.
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

  17. #17

    k-roy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveDX89
    Ewww, Fram oil filter.
    I thought he knew better.
    ------------------

  18. #18
    LX User tatmark1's Avatar
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    you should remove the engine in one solid piece. the way you are doing it (or so it looks) will take u twice as long.
    i just pulled mine, from start to finish 1.5 hours
    1-2-0 mma nhb
    4-2-0 judo

  19. #19

    86LXItooFAST4me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveDX89
    Ewww, Fram oil filter.
    ditto
    "Seriously, I have a half o' pack of Rolaids in my dipper" -Stewie (Family Guy)

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  20. #20
    3Geez Veteran smufguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveDX89
    Ewww, Fram oil filter.
    whats wrong with that? I use Fram X2. what the hell do u use? genuine honda? I was thinkin of getting the Mobile 1 filters and oil from autozone for 30 bux.

  21. #21

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Dude I don't use fram... that was on the motor whe I bought it, and that was a pic I took before I cleaned it up...

    I use K&N BTW
    Last edited by A20A1; 07-14-2004 at 05:25 PM.
    - llia


  22. #22
    SEi User racerx's Avatar
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    the reason we were gonna pull the engine (plans changed) was because my dad was borrowing my car one day, and "everything was fine, the motor was purring, and then BOOM!"

    ...

    i thought for sure some serious mechanical crap occured in the motor, and since I have a nice fresh block sitting in the garage, I thought I'd put it to use.
    turns out, though, that upon inspection, the cylinder diameter is dead nuts 3.250".
    also, the rings (which are only 5000 miles old) are still springy and at the correct ring gap. ring seats are great, pistons are good, rods are straight, bearings replaced, etc...

    we think the head gasket blew because you can see carbon build up between the cylinders on the gasket. also, there's practically 0 compression in the #1 and #2 cylinders. there's very little in #3 and #4.

    you guys think it was the head gasket, or could it be something else?
    www.stein-photo.com
    born to XLR8

  23. #23
    1988starter
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    Quote Originally Posted by smufguy
    whats wrong with that? I use Fram X2. what the hell do u use? genuine honda? I was thinkin of getting the Mobile 1 filters and oil from autozone for 30 bux.
    does not matter fram makes most honda filters any way

  24. #24

    86LXItooFAST4me's Avatar
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    do some research and cut a few diff oil filters in half and you will see why fram sucks ass. the X2 are ok though i believe. i wont use anything but WIX.
    "Seriously, I have a half o' pack of Rolaids in my dipper" -Stewie (Family Guy)

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  25. #25
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